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New LS2 404 not firing on some cylinders...

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Old 04-20-2009, 11:05 AM
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Default New LS2 404 not firing on some cylinders...

Ok heres a little more info to the problem at hand. I put my longblock together on an engine stand, and obviously when I put the cam in time I fucked up. I have a cloyles double roller with 2 sets of numbers on the crank sprocket. Well I ended lining the dot up with the "0" for the keyway of the cranks, and not the one I was supposed to. It ended up being about 4 teeth retarded I beleive. Well I turned the motor over by hand to make sure I didnt have any PTV contact. It turned over fine and didnt feel anything hitting.

So I get it in the car and fire it up, It cranks and idles for about 3 seconds, and dies. Had a real loud popping sound to it. It wouldnt crank after that. So I pulled the plugs, and they were fouled. Stick a new set in and fire it up, does the same thing. Idles for a second and then dies. It would pop and backfire through the intake when I would try and crank it. So thats when a friend of mine said it is probably out of time. Oull it down and thats when I discovered. Well I line it back up right this time and put it back together.

Now it will idle but I have to keep it idled with giving it gas, and it sounds like its under water and the "1,7" primaries are ice cold, as is the "2,4" primaries on the passenger side.

What I would like to know is if anyone thinks it may be an electrical problem, or is it what I'm pretty sure it is. Bent valves? I ended up cleaning the first set of plugs I had in it, and put them back in there. So maybe a new set of plugs? Just looking for some ideas guys...thanks.
Old 04-20-2009, 11:04 PM
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Anyone?
Old 04-21-2009, 01:15 AM
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Do you have any codes?
a cam position sensor code?
i did an 402 ls2 swap into a z06, and the cam position sensor extension wire harness did not reverse the two outside wires like it was supposed to. it was popping and not running very well.
after quite a bit of research i found out that was a common problem swapping to an ls2 engine..
i de-pinned that jumper harness and switched the wires around... no more code, and ran like a champ!


i hope its something like that and an easy fix for you!
...also an inline spark indicator for the plug wires, and an injector noid light are a couple of great test tools to make sure that all 8 cylinders are getting spark and fuel, to determine it is indeed something else mechanical.
Old 04-21-2009, 06:44 AM
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Not throwing any codes. I have already ran this car before with the ls2. So I have already swapped the wires. Did a compression check today and got 0 on the number one cylinder and 65 on number 2...
Old 04-21-2009, 10:00 AM
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The only times I've seen 1/2/4/7 not firing (or only those firing) has been reluctor wheel related. Did you verify you've got the correct reluctor wheel on the crank for your application? Assuming this is for your 2000 SS in your signature, you'd need a 24X wheel (looks likes two wheels pressed together). Verify that first. Next, this can occur when the wheel is installed on the crankshaft backwards. This is a bit more rare to see, but I have seen it from each of the major LS1 crank mfg's that you hear about on these forums. To check this, you'll have to remove the oil pan so that you can see the rear of the reluctor wheel better.

Hope that helps.
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Old 04-21-2009, 01:27 PM
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Yes it has the right reluctor wheel. I actually ran the motor for close to 3000 miles before, and then it dropped a lifter and I pulled it out to have it refreshed. Got it put back together, and lost oil pressure after I drove it a few miles. Ended up being a cam bearing that was walking. So back to the machine shop. Now this....

Can anyone explain why I would have ZERO pounds of compression on the #1 cylinder? Does that mean a valve is bent and hung WTFO?
Old 04-21-2009, 05:30 PM
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I checked the rest of the cylinders on the driver side. Only the number 3 cylinder is building compression, 125psi. Checked the number 2 cylinder and it built 125psi also. Weird thing is when I have the guage hooked up on a cylinder that is building compression the motor shakes like it's trying to crank and you can just hear it building up. When it's in a cylinder that makes nothing the motor just spins free as can be and all you can hear is the starter. Starting to look bad.
Old 04-22-2009, 08:14 PM
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Pulled the passenger side head off today. All the intake valves made contact with the pistons. All of the pistons on the pass. side. They are diamond pistons. The street series. I am wondering if these "dings" have weakened the pistons. Here is a pic.

Old 04-23-2009, 11:18 AM
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So were the cylinders not firing as stated, or just not building/holding compression?
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:55 PM
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Check and make sure the coilpacks are on the right way...I just figuerd out the same problem you had and checked and the #1 coil pack was on the #7 cylinder..And flipped them over and car turned over fine and idled great..

Just check and make sure
Old 04-28-2009, 09:24 PM
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Looks to me like they hit the pistons hard enough to bend the valve...

Time for some new valvetrain.. also it sounds like youre having some pretty bad luck with this engine... lmao
Old 04-29-2009, 12:17 AM
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yeah very bad luck...it ended up I bent all the intake valves. That's why it wasn't firing or holding compression. I made another thread about it with pictures.



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