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99-01 6.0L build

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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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Default 99-01 6.0L build

This is all new to me! I just picked up a couple 6.0l engines for $100 bucks each. They came from some burnt pick-ups. I have been wanting to put a 6.0 in my 79 Malibu wagon. I know you guys are the go to people. Just want to know the do's and dont's. Well heres the rundown. I want to run the stock block and crank. Which rod and piston is the best bang for the buck or can I just run the factory rod w/ bolt upgrade? I would like to run the L92 head with spring upgrades. Which cam? I want to run a carb w/ Edelbrock intake. I have a lot more questions but this will start. Thanks for all the input. Later Shane PWM

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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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First i want to know where you got the engines for $100 and do they have any more.

For pistons go with a name brand piston like diamond pistons which is what i used in my last 6.0 build and i loved them. For rods there a couple of good makers out there like eagle, manley, and lunati are the ones i can think off hand.

As for a H/C combo what is your budget and how much power do you want to make. A middle of the spectrum cam and some kick *** heads can make 420rwhp with out a problem.
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by goober35
First i want to know where you got the engines for $100 and do they have any more.

For pistons go with a name brand piston like diamond pistons which is what i used in my last 6.0 build and i loved them. For rods there a couple of good makers out there like eagle, manley, and lunati are the ones i can think off hand.

As for a H/C combo what is your budget and how much power do you want to make. A middle of the spectrum cam and some kick *** heads can make 420rwhp with out a problem.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am looking for something in the 500rwhp range. Im not afraid of a little spray either. What is the hp limit of the stock crank and block? I remember a car (I think the guys name was Burger) on this site that went some 10.80's with a very mild setup. I just want the thing to live. I just dont want to have to go buying an aftermarket crank and lsx block at this time. I just want to buy the right parts the first time. How would this combo hold up to forced induction and e85? Thanks for the help. Shane PWM

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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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The 6.0 iron block is good for more power than you would ever want. I know the stock crank can handle 800hp so your 500hp should not be a problem. If you want a FI route just get some low completion pistons along with some good heads and just turn the boost up and let it rip.


Contact one of the spongers -----------> like texas speed or thunder racing. Let them know what you are doing and they will set you up
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by goober35
The 6.0 iron block is good for more power than you would ever want. I know the stock crank can handle 800hp so your 500hp should not be a problem. If you want a FI route just get some low completion pistons along with some good heads and just turn the boost up and let it rip.


Contact one of the spongers -----------> like texas speed or thunder racing. Let them know what you are doing and they will set you up
Just went to look at the engines. The engines I'm buying have aluminum heads, but I looked at another engine that had steel heads. Are the aluminum heads year specific? Thanks Shane PWM
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 12:26 AM
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iron heads were the earlier model
The al heads as 317 casting and are the same as the Ls6 head. Good heads specially if you go forced induction.
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 05:58 AM
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Plus the crank configuration is better on the aluminum headed engines
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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Thanks for the help! I should pick the engines up today. They aren't very pretty but as far as I can see they will be ok. The one engine has the valve covers melted but the heads are ok. How do these heads fair compared to the L92? Thanks Shane PWM
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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first off you DO need to sell me one for $105 (see you make profit) and i would really recommend you keep the injection as you need to have an ECU to operate the ignition. well if you'd like a build to compare to, i have a stock crank, Wiseco Forged flat-tops w/steel rings, Callies Compstar rods, Clevite bearings, Fast 95/95, 1 7/8" LTs, MS3 cam, LS7 lifters, TSP pushrods, etc. you can do so much with that motor. do you plan to run nitrous? what's your budget?
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 98TA6.0
first off you DO need to sell me one for $105 ,s(see you make profit) and i would really recommend you keep the injection as you need to have an ECU to operate the ignition. well if you'd like a build to compare to, i have a stock crank, Wiseco Forged flat-tops w/steel rings, Callies Compstar rods, Clevite bearings, Fast 95/95, 1 7/8" LTs, MS3 cam, LS7 lifters, TSP pushrods, etc. you can do so much with that motor. do you plan to run nitrous? what's your budget?
Well first off there is no intake left( fire damage). I really wanted to use the L92 heads w/edelbrock carb intake and nitrous. But now I am think more like a gt4788 mid frame and F/I. Are the decks on the L92's thick enough for lots of boost. I would like to keep it as low budget as possible but I realize to go fast it takes $$$$$. I have a ez street 72 nova 25.5 chassis and it takes so much money to compete it has been on the back burner for sometime. Just want to get back to something fun and fast for as little amount of $$$ as possible. The 79 malibu wagon I got on ebay for $500 running. I would like to run some bottom 6's 1/8th mile and still cruise with no problem. Thanks Shane PWM
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:59 AM
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there is no such thing as Fast, Reliable, and Cheap. that the three parts of the triangle and you can only have two. you know the saying. i dont think you have L92 heads on that motor if you are talking about stock heads. you have 317s. those are GREAT for boost and there is a guy from the Netherlands that has a 91mm turbo with a stock crank/block/head LQ4 that makes 1400+ hp. so they should suffice for your expectations. i have an LQ9 intake/fuel rail/injector setup that i'm selling if you are interested? or you could LS6 heads or a FAST. lots of options though. i am building a nitrous car because i wanna be able to keep a daily drivable compression and cam. turbos are too finicky. not for me
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 98TA6.0
there is no such thing as Fast, Reliable, and Cheap. that the three parts of the triangle and you can only have two. you know the saying. i dont think you have L92 heads on that motor if you are talking about stock heads. you have 317s. those are GREAT for boost and there is a guy from the Netherlands that has a 91mm turbo with a stock crank/block/head LQ4 that makes 1400+ hp. so they should suffice for your expectations. i have an LQ9 intake/fuel rail/injector setup that i'm selling if you are interested? or you could LS6 heads or a FAST. lots of options though. i am building a nitrous car because i wanna be able to keep a daily drivable compression and cam. turbos are too finicky. not for me
No it doesnt have L92's. I was thinking of purchasing L92's but if the 317's will work I will stick with them. I just want the turbo because it makes mad power and the fab part is not a problem. What is the LQ4 designation? I dont know the numbers and what parts will interchange. Im old school small block. Thanks for the help. Shane-Performance Weld and Machine
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 02:43 PM
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The L92 deck height is thinner than the 317 heads.
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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u can use a th350/400 with a hughes flexpate on the 6.0 engine with iron heads, also on the alum heads engines, but need 6.0 spacer
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 04:43 PM
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Have the block and crank magnafluxed and inspected very well, same with the heads. If the fire was enough to melt the aluminum valvecovers, it may have done something funky somewhere else, likely the heads. I'd hate to see you get it all together and a valve seat falls out or something.
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Have the block and crank magnafluxed and inspected very well, same with the heads. If the fire was enough to melt the aluminum valvecovers, it may have done something funky somewhere else, likely the heads. I'd hate to see you get it all together and a valve seat falls out or something.
Ill try and get some pics. Just picked them up today. The fire was mostly on the top end,but still very hot. Thanks all!!! Shane PWM
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