Iron ?
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Staging Lane
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From: Motor City
Iron ? How much heavier is the 6.0block than the LS1/6 blocks? Is the ability to affordably get a 427 worth the extra weight? How would the extra weight affect handling? Basically what are the pros and cons to an Iron block before I jump into something?
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From: Katy, TX
Originally Posted by Sleepy383SS
How much heavier is the 6.0block than the LS1/6 blocks? Is the ability to affordably get a 427 worth the extra weight? How would the extra weight affect handling? Basically what are the pros and cons to an Iron block before I jump into something?
Most people quote a weight gain of about 75lbs.
Handling? I would guess that most peopl who have gone Iron have probably removed more than 75lbs off their front end by the time they do it.
I have an iron 422 and I added a PA Kmember that dropped 40 lbs. and removed the ac equipment and egr for another 40-50 lbs. The iron block is about 95 lbs heavier than the alluminum so the weight reduction brought me back to the same weight. The car has crazy power with about 3800 lbs of weight, and I don't notice any difference in the handling of the car. I went with the iron block for reliability and strength, and so far so good. The alluminum block is better for someone who wants max performance and track times because of the bigger bore and less weight. I just didn't want to have to replace the head gasket multiple times over a dropped sleeve, but I started my project a year ago when there were not any good options for al. resleeves. Now there is a lot more options to choose from.
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
or until you try to moove a bare 6.0 block by yourself.
i didnt really notice a diffrence in the handling of the car. i changed no suspention parts out when i did it, but now w/ the hals, battery relocated, emptied resivior, ect.. ect.. it handles better than stock, and weight x-fers great.
definately worth it, especially if thats the block you've got to work with.
i didnt really notice a diffrence in the handling of the car. i changed no suspention parts out when i did it, but now w/ the hals, battery relocated, emptied resivior, ect.. ect.. it handles better than stock, and weight x-fers great.
definately worth it, especially if thats the block you've got to work with.
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From: Grove City Ohio/Port Washington L.I sometimes
Originally Posted by LOnSLO
The weight difference is 105 lbs. I didn't believe it either at first, until I actually weighed them.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Motor City
Wow, 105lbs. I had read in a LS1-6 book that the difference was around 50 lbs. I am aware of the substantial weight difference by volume of aluminum vs. iron and 105 is probably dead on, the 50 number I remember sounded too good, that’s why I asked.
What are my options here, I have my heart set on a 427 (partly because I have a really sweet SS 427 emblem that will fit perfectly on my grille, as good as reason as any I guess) but I can always fudge a few cubes right. I am planning on using the crank out of my 382 and a set of LQ9 heads I just picked up. I am looking to build low compression big cube motor for a high boost Procharger.
What are the basic blocks differences?
LQ4 vs. LQ9
LS1 vs. LS6
Re-sleeved?
Is an LQ4 like an iron LS1 and a LQ9 like the LS6?
Is the addition of the crankcase “windows” in the LS6 block going to make that big of a difference?
What are the maximum tolerances that these blocks can be bored? Is it true certain years cannot be bored as much as others?
I sort of half-assed the motor I have in my SS now and really want to do everything right this time, any info or advice would be great. Also, who can I have do all the machine work on my heads and everything, who really does the best work for these motors?
You know, this whole thing is a disease, once you get a taste of true power; you need more and more to be truly happy, does it ever end??
What are my options here, I have my heart set on a 427 (partly because I have a really sweet SS 427 emblem that will fit perfectly on my grille, as good as reason as any I guess) but I can always fudge a few cubes right. I am planning on using the crank out of my 382 and a set of LQ9 heads I just picked up. I am looking to build low compression big cube motor for a high boost Procharger.
What are the basic blocks differences?
LQ4 vs. LQ9
LS1 vs. LS6
Re-sleeved?
Is an LQ4 like an iron LS1 and a LQ9 like the LS6?
Is the addition of the crankcase “windows” in the LS6 block going to make that big of a difference?
What are the maximum tolerances that these blocks can be bored? Is it true certain years cannot be bored as much as others?
I sort of half-assed the motor I have in my SS now and really want to do everything right this time, any info or advice would be great. Also, who can I have do all the machine work on my heads and everything, who really does the best work for these motors?
You know, this whole thing is a disease, once you get a taste of true power; you need more and more to be truly happy, does it ever end??
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I dont think the BARE block differences are over 100 pounds. Maybe a fully assembled short with all forged components vs a stock short.
I have seen it weighed as well and if I remember correctly it is about 60-65 pounds.
I have seen it weighed as well and if I remember correctly it is about 60-65 pounds.
