Anyone remove there motor in there garage?
05-28-2009, 01:17 PM
#41
first thing i disconnect is driveshaft, then unplug all wiring, put front end on the parts store plastic ramps. remove rad.,lid, front stuff, etc.
i always pull engine with trans, i found that it saves me more time over trying to remove bh bolts. i use a regular hoist, and 2 ramps. dont even unbolt hood or remve bumper, never damaged anything til date. have removed both lt and ls engines. around 25-30 total just in my driveway. alone usually. also i guarantee u will save a significant amount of time if have any more mods such as clutch, tc. whatever. since the engine is alredy out,
mite as well replace springs, rod bolts, clutch. i tend to get carried away
i always pull engine with trans, i found that it saves me more time over trying to remove bh bolts. i use a regular hoist, and 2 ramps. dont even unbolt hood or remve bumper, never damaged anything til date. have removed both lt and ls engines. around 25-30 total just in my driveway. alone usually. also i guarantee u will save a significant amount of time if have any more mods such as clutch, tc. whatever. since the engine is alredy out,
mite as well replace springs, rod bolts, clutch. i tend to get carried away
05-28-2009, 01:20 PM
#42
Really very easy to come out the bottum. Take out the DS, torque arm, and Y pipe. Disconnect all electrical connectors. Unbolt AC ompressor from motor. un hook 2 from brake lines from ABS block. disconnect steering shaft.
Then it is a matterof the 4 bolts on Trans crossmember and 6 bolts on the k member.
Hood stays on Radiator stays in the car. Very simple. Headers and all accesories can stay on the motor. Like I said before if I do it at work on a lift I can have the motor out of the car in 1 hour. At home on the floor with a cherry picker I can have it out of the car in under 3 hours.
Then it is a matterof the 4 bolts on Trans crossmember and 6 bolts on the k member.
Hood stays on Radiator stays in the car. Very simple. Headers and all accesories can stay on the motor. Like I said before if I do it at work on a lift I can have the motor out of the car in 1 hour. At home on the floor with a cherry picker I can have it out of the car in under 3 hours.
05-28-2009, 02:45 PM
#45
Teching In
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
your saving time/headache on the reassembly (prime power steering, bleed brakes, getting an alignment, aligning the k-member, etc...)...........it may take you longer to get the motor out the car (technically) by the top method but if you add up all the time you take accessories off (bottom way) the motor when its out the car its the equivalent if you were to pull from top..............subtract this time from the top method and your motor is out very quickly, if not faster than if you were to drop out bottom
05-28-2009, 03:11 PM
#46
if you do it correct.. your alignment wont be to far out of wack, the k-member isnt to big of a deal. and none of the power steering lines get unhooked.. and the 5 minutes to bleed your brakes? out of the bottom is my preference.. its more "convenient". to each his own
05-28-2009, 03:19 PM
#47
your saving time/headache on the reassembly (prime power steering, bleed brakes, getting an alignment, aligning the k-member, etc...)...........it may take you longer to get the motor out the car (technically) by the top method but if you add up all the time you take accessories off (bottom way) the motor when its out the car its the equivalent if you were to pull from top..............subtract this time from the top method and your motor is out very quickly, if not faster than if you were to drop out bottom
Well I have never had to prime the power steering since I never break that system open. Also there isb't much to aligning the k member and I have never had to do an alignment after having the k member out since I never unbolt the rack from it or take any suspension apart. also the K member has aligning pins that go into the body so it is always in the same place.
The only extra is bleeding the front brakes and that is simple.
Lets look at it this way. I did a motor sway for a friend of mine. I did it at work using a lift so I had that going for me. Motor was a long block. had front and rear covers and valve covers on it no pan. I drove the car in the shop and drove it back out of the shop in 5.5 hours droping everything out the bottum, bleeding brakes swaping clutch parts, oil pan accesories everything. I would like to see someone do that pulling the motor out of the top. Even if I would have done this at home with no lift I could of had it done in under 8 hours.
Have you ever dropped the motor out of the bottum. I think if you did it once you would see that it really is easy.
05-29-2009, 06:31 AM
#49
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: York, PA
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Really very easy to come out the bottum. Take out the DS, torque arm, and Y pipe. Disconnect all electrical connectors. Unbolt AC ompressor from motor. un hook 2 from brake lines from ABS block. disconnect steering shaft.
Then it is a matterof the 4 bolts on Trans crossmember and 6 bolts on the k member.
Hood stays on Radiator stays in the car. Very simple. Headers and all accesories can stay on the motor. Like I said before if I do it at work on a lift I can have the motor out of the car in 1 hour. At home on the floor with a cherry picker I can have it out of the car in under 3 hours.
Then it is a matterof the 4 bolts on Trans crossmember and 6 bolts on the k member.
Hood stays on Radiator stays in the car. Very simple. Headers and all accesories can stay on the motor. Like I said before if I do it at work on a lift I can have the motor out of the car in 1 hour. At home on the floor with a cherry picker I can have it out of the car in under 3 hours.
05-31-2009, 07:58 PM
#53
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: godley
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
first thing i disconnect is driveshaft, then unplug all wiring, put front end on the parts store plastic ramps. remove rad.,lid, front stuff, etc.
i always pull engine with trans, i found that it saves me more time over trying to remove bh bolts. i use a regular hoist, and 2 ramps. dont even unbolt hood or remve bumper, never damaged anything til date. have removed both lt and ls engines. around 25-30 total just in my driveway. alone usually. also i guarantee u will save a significant amount of time if have any more mods such as clutch, tc. whatever. since the engine is alredy out,
mite as well replace springs, rod bolts, clutch. i tend to get carried away
i always pull engine with trans, i found that it saves me more time over trying to remove bh bolts. i use a regular hoist, and 2 ramps. dont even unbolt hood or remve bumper, never damaged anything til date. have removed both lt and ls engines. around 25-30 total just in my driveway. alone usually. also i guarantee u will save a significant amount of time if have any more mods such as clutch, tc. whatever. since the engine is alredy out,
mite as well replace springs, rod bolts, clutch. i tend to get carried away
06-05-2009, 11:03 AM
#54
10 Second Club
iTrader: (66)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have done both way many times, And to me I feel the top is easy if you are working by yourself. If you go out the bottom, you might want an extra hand just in case to help get the k-member, trans., and engine out from under the car!
I had a problem on my VERY 1st time taking it out the bottom. My hoist was wanting to tip over when I had the car in the air. I had to reposition it and everything went smooth. But then the hoist was in my way when I wanted to pull it out from under the car. NOW I know where to hook up the hoist and how to position it and it's all a piece of cake! I will tell you that for your fist time taking it out the bottom, your going to get frustrated. But your 2nd time around is a piece of cake!
Good Luck and if you want to look at some detailed pics, Check out my F-Quick page... http://www.fquick.com/LT1Formula007
And go to my pics of the white 1998 Z28! I have tons of pictures of my progress with the car!
James
I had a problem on my VERY 1st time taking it out the bottom. My hoist was wanting to tip over when I had the car in the air. I had to reposition it and everything went smooth. But then the hoist was in my way when I wanted to pull it out from under the car. NOW I know where to hook up the hoist and how to position it and it's all a piece of cake! I will tell you that for your fist time taking it out the bottom, your going to get frustrated. But your 2nd time around is a piece of cake!
Good Luck and if you want to look at some detailed pics, Check out my F-Quick page... http://www.fquick.com/LT1Formula007
And go to my pics of the white 1998 Z28! I have tons of pictures of my progress with the car!
James
06-07-2009, 05:01 PM
#56
10 Second Club
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cape Girardeau, Missouri
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
i did all of mine and didnt put a single scratch or scuff on the car, ive helped my friends with their motor installs so this was my 4th time doing this. it definatly gets easier and quicker the more you do.
06-07-2009, 09:42 PM
#59
10 Second Club
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cape Girardeau, Missouri
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I've seen the motor come out of the top, it may be easier if your not worried about scratches. But it usually takes some banging arround to get it out the top, espically if you take the trans with it. The way i see it is that it was put in the bottom from the factory so thats the way i would do it. Just get some wheel dollies to put under the engine and the tranny and roll it out.
06-07-2009, 09:59 PM
#60
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: cape girardeau mo
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ITS ALOT EASIER COMING OUT THE BOTTOM THAN THE TOP! unless you like being frustrated id take it out the bottom. cape ta and others helped on mine and other friends cars and its the easiest route.