which type of cam will work best with the 'equal length' SLP designed header
which type of cam will work best with the 'equal length' SLP designed header Do certain types of cams work with particular kinds of headers better than others?
Here is what I am thinking about. I ordered a set of SLP LT headers, you know the 'equal length' headers. Does the equal length header design benefit from a split duration, reverse split, or single pattern camshaft?
When I look at SLP's matching 51011 cam (at least what they claim) it has a 214 / 222 duration. This is a relatively different split than most other cams. I'm looking for a small cam to match the SLP headers. I've been thinking seriously about a comp cams 216/220 grind, maybe the TR220, or maybe the LS6 cam. The 216/220 is the front runner but I wanted some info as to which type of cam will work best with the 'equal length' SLP designed header.
Here is what I am thinking about. I ordered a set of SLP LT headers, you know the 'equal length' headers. Does the equal length header design benefit from a split duration, reverse split, or single pattern camshaft?
When I look at SLP's matching 51011 cam (at least what they claim) it has a 214 / 222 duration. This is a relatively different split than most other cams. I'm looking for a small cam to match the SLP headers. I've been thinking seriously about a comp cams 216/220 grind, maybe the TR220, or maybe the LS6 cam. The 216/220 is the front runner but I wanted some info as to which type of cam will work best with the 'equal length' SLP designed header.
I don't think any cam will benefit over another. I personally think the 'tuned length' from slp is a gimmick. But to each their own. Look at TR's 224, great cam, nice power curve, not a killer on springs. Unless you're plannin on spinnin your motor to 6400+ constantly its your best bet IMHO.
I agree, the SLP 'tuned length' may be relatively un-tuned (read gimmick), but it is a different design than the grots/hookers/FLPs ect...and with all these cam choices I'd like to get something that matches my stock heads, 3:42 gears, LT headers and has nice street manners.
I'm not looking for the "best cam". I'm wondering what type of cam will work best with the SLP design header.
I'm not looking for the "best cam". I'm wondering what type of cam will work best with the SLP design header.
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Well you could compare the flow rate of your headers against the cubic inches of your engine then find the power peak of that cam and see how all the numbers compare.
Of course, this involves a bunch of numbers you probably don't have and don't have easy access to.
Or you could fire up desktop dyno 2003 and see how each cam you're thinking of buying performs. Long tube headers in general mean high rpm performance. But the CAM is the heart of the engine, it will determine your powerband 1000% more than anything else on or in the motor. The cam will dictate how the car idles, where it makes its torque, fuel economy, etc.
Am I the only one who thinks you should be buying your headers (and everything else on the car!) according to the cam you want?
Of course, this involves a bunch of numbers you probably don't have and don't have easy access to.
Or you could fire up desktop dyno 2003 and see how each cam you're thinking of buying performs. Long tube headers in general mean high rpm performance. But the CAM is the heart of the engine, it will determine your powerband 1000% more than anything else on or in the motor. The cam will dictate how the car idles, where it makes its torque, fuel economy, etc.
Am I the only one who thinks you should be buying your headers (and everything else on the car!) according to the cam you want?
z98 ^^ has got this one nailed 100% . . . the cam determines your engine's personality, get a cam based on your goals for the car, then build everything else around the cam.
For the LS1, traditional split pattern cams are best for small cams and stock exhaust. Meduim sized cams with headers should be single pattern. For a big cam with 1 7/8 headers, go reverse split. All JMHO, of course.
My sugestion is call back SLP and tell them you don't want the headers . . . then order some QTP, Grot, FLP or Kooks longtubes along with a TR224 or TR230. Get the TR224 if you must pass emissions, otherwise the TR230. Those smaller cams you're looking at aren't work the effort of putting them in. Again, JMHO.
If you must use the SLP headers and one of the cams you listed, I would get the TR220.
For the LS1, traditional split pattern cams are best for small cams and stock exhaust. Meduim sized cams with headers should be single pattern. For a big cam with 1 7/8 headers, go reverse split. All JMHO, of course.
My sugestion is call back SLP and tell them you don't want the headers . . . then order some QTP, Grot, FLP or Kooks longtubes along with a TR224 or TR230. Get the TR224 if you must pass emissions, otherwise the TR230. Those smaller cams you're looking at aren't work the effort of putting them in. Again, JMHO.
If you must use the SLP headers and one of the cams you listed, I would get the TR220.
Last edited by Cal; Nov 7, 2003 at 12:05 PM.
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Originally Posted by Cal
z98 ^^ has got this one nailed 100% . . . the cam determines your engine's personality, get a cam based on your goals for the car, then build everything else around the cam.
For the LS1, traditional split pattern cams are best for small cams and stock exhaust. Meduim sized cams with headers should be single pattern. For a big cam with 1 7/8 headers, go reverse split. All JMHO, of course.
My sugestion is call back SLP and tell them you don't want the headers . . . then order some QTP, Grot, or FLP longtubes along with a TR224 or TR230. Get the TR224 if you must pass emissions, otherwise the TR230. Those smaller cams you're looking at aren't work the effort of putting them in. Again, JMHO.
If you must use the SLP headers and one of the cams you listed, I would get the TR220.
For the LS1, traditional split pattern cams are best for small cams and stock exhaust. Meduim sized cams with headers should be single pattern. For a big cam with 1 7/8 headers, go reverse split. All JMHO, of course.
My sugestion is call back SLP and tell them you don't want the headers . . . then order some QTP, Grot, or FLP longtubes along with a TR224 or TR230. Get the TR224 if you must pass emissions, otherwise the TR230. Those smaller cams you're looking at aren't work the effort of putting them in. Again, JMHO.
If you must use the SLP headers and one of the cams you listed, I would get the TR220.
if your willing to spend 800+ on slp headers you could just as well get some qtp or kooks and be better off, then get a 224 cam which is pretty much the consensus on great middle range cams. then call it a day.
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214/222 sounds like a cam to use with stock manifolds to me.
Personally, I don't like the SLP design. I think these are really designed to boost mid range torque to the max and trade of some high rpm power as a result.
Personally, I don't like the SLP design. I think these are really designed to boost mid range torque to the max and trade of some high rpm power as a result.
"Personally, I don't like the SLP design. I think these are really designed to boost mid range torque to the max and trade of some high rpm power as a result."
That is exactly why I bought the SLP headers. It think the same. I keep thinking the SLP headers with the CC 216/220 or TR220 will be a torque monster / street terror.
Torque is king on the street.
That is exactly why I bought the SLP headers. It think the same. I keep thinking the SLP headers with the CC 216/220 or TR220 will be a torque monster / street terror.
Torque is king on the street.
When I was shopping for a cam, I was worried about losing low rpm torque also. After all, I used to own a '67 Firebird with a huge Crane solid lifter cam that was a real dog on the low end. But I eventually realized that the TR224 is really a tiny cam compared to what I had in that car (320 degree advertised, so 270 @ 50 thou?) With the TR 224 I haven't noticed any loss of low end torque, and the midrange to high end is awesome. Basically the whole curve from about 2200 rpm and higher is shifted up as well as extended past the 5400 rpm stock peak to around 6700 rpm with the TR224. So I got a wider rpm range, as well as much more area under the curve; talk about a win-win proposition! Even the stock LS1 heads are designed for much more cam than stock; these engines love to be cammed! It's your call, but you'll be missing out on a lot to go that small.
Last edited by Cal; Nov 7, 2003 at 12:07 PM.
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From: Macomb, MI
Originally Posted by WOT
see sig. i dont think that these are great headers or that i have the best cam. just offering some numbers to compare to. good luck
Do you have a dyno graph? I'm curious to see where this setup peaks?
here is a link HOSS99
http://www.texas-speed.com/troy231_237.jpg
this was thru a cutout so the torque would be a little higher down low if it was closed.
http://www.texas-speed.com/troy231_237.jpg
this was thru a cutout so the torque would be a little higher down low if it was closed.
the 224 is a good cam. timid enough for the sniffers yet fun enough for the track. im sure you will enjoy it. but i do have a question.....what did you hear was dangerous. you kinda lost me there.
When those headers first came out, SLP's own marketing materials showed their headers producing good midrange gain, but mediocre top end gain. I'd look for cam that is done by 6300.
Suggestions include the TR 220 114 for a mild cam or a 224/224 112 +2 (or even 4) for a more aggressive cam.
Suggestions include the TR 220 114 for a mild cam or a 224/224 112 +2 (or even 4) for a more aggressive cam.
FWIW
As for losing bottom end torque...
Bolt on's = lid, maf, TB, dual/dual, SLP Y, plugs wires ie no headers no cam etc.
See sig for mod's with Hooker LT's
rpms.......bolt on.......w/Hooker LT's etc
2300........300rwtq......305rrtq
2500........310.............330
2700........315.............350
3000........318.............360
3500........320.............370
4000........330.............382
4500........335.............400
The car dosn't have to loose any bottom end torque with a well match combo - even with other than SLP LT's, it can gain EVERY where.
As for losing bottom end torque...
Bolt on's = lid, maf, TB, dual/dual, SLP Y, plugs wires ie no headers no cam etc.
See sig for mod's with Hooker LT's
rpms.......bolt on.......w/Hooker LT's etc
2300........300rwtq......305rrtq
2500........310.............330
2700........315.............350
3000........318.............360
3500........320.............370
4000........330.............382
4500........335.............400
The car dosn't have to loose any bottom end torque with a well match combo - even with other than SLP LT's, it can gain EVERY where.
