Hotcam before and after dyno sheet
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Hotcam before and after dyno sheet This is with the LS1 hotcam and stock tune with a m6. The dyno was not under the best conditions but the same before and after(except 1.5hr cool down for without, 10 minute with, both after 45 min drive). Both were inside, no fan in front of car, cooling fans on at operating temp 
. I did add spark plugs with the cam but old plugs were fine. Also added hardend pushrods.
Without cam : 305.6hp 323tq sae corrected
With hotcam : 328.1hp 328tq sae corrected
With my current setup it looks almost like it could have a LS6 cam on the dyno sheet. But the idle doesn't
.
I didn't drill the TB or mess with the stop screw either. Only drivability problems are surging a few secomds after hot start and if you rev the motor at idle(not the best for stop and go). I'll get a dyno tune after I install some LT's but stock tune will due until then.
. I did add spark plugs with the cam but old plugs were fine. Also added hardend pushrods.Without cam : 305.6hp 323tq sae corrected
With hotcam : 328.1hp 328tq sae corrected
With my current setup it looks almost like it could have a LS6 cam on the dyno sheet. But the idle doesn't
.I didn't drill the TB or mess with the stop screw either. Only drivability problems are surging a few secomds after hot start and if you rev the motor at idle(not the best for stop and go). I'll get a dyno tune after I install some LT's but stock tune will due until then.
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Originally Posted by jrp
what are the hot cam specs? some LT's should wake it up alomg with some more bolt ons 
More mods when I get the money. Just got the cam w/springs used for $200(checked before install). Already needed pushrods so it was a good excuse to install the cam now.
Sleeper, I am not trying to kick you down, but it really makes ZERO sense to me why someone would put a cam in a stock car. You basically tried to build a house without a foundation.
You would have gained more power and reliability doing all the bolt ons first. That being said, with all the proper bolt ons and a good full exhaust system, you should see ~370-380 rwhp with this cam on a good tune.
josh
You would have gained more power and reliability doing all the bolt ons first. That being said, with all the proper bolt ons and a good full exhaust system, you should see ~370-380 rwhp with this cam on a good tune.
josh
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Originally Posted by Damian
Sleeper, I am not trying to kick you down, but it really makes ZERO sense to me why someone would put a cam in a stock car. You basically tried to build a house without a foundation.
You would have gained more power and reliability doing all the bolt ons first. That being said, with all the proper bolt ons and a good full exhaust system, you should see ~370-380 rwhp with this cam on a good tune.
josh
You would have gained more power and reliability doing all the bolt ons first. That being said, with all the proper bolt ons and a good full exhaust system, you should see ~370-380 rwhp with this cam on a good tune.
josh
Originally Posted by sleeperz28
First the car is not stock. Look at the mods on the dyno sheet. If you'll note the above comment about having the cam and already doing the pushrods you may start to understand. On top of that what other bolt on will have added 23 hp for $250(already had to replace the pushrods) all said and done? And as for reliability, I wanted different springs to keep from bending a valve with my hardend pushrods. I have driven my car every day since installed last week with no trouble or complaints, but I have got a few compliments. I think the dyno is a bit conservative the way they run it because the first time I was there a vette with a TR224 112lsa and LT's made only about 10rwhp more than the mustang dyno it was tuned on.
but as long as your happy with it thats all that matters. what springs cam with the cam setup you bought. depending on those too you'll be limited by a cam you could run if you so choose to get a new one in the future. if it were me i'd of just swapped out the pushrods that needed changing, that only takes an hour or so and called it a day.
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Originally Posted by jrp
i think damian is just saying you should of built a better foundation before going the cam route. that cam will limit your hp ability since its so small. with full bolt ons and tune i dont see you achieving higher then 375rwhp on stock heads at least. with heads you'll see more of course. but then with ported heads you'll be wasting the new found port flow with such a small cam.
but as long as your happy with it thats all that matters. what springs cam with the cam setup you bought. depending on those too you'll be limited by a cam you could run if you so choose to get a new one in the future. if it were me i'd of just swapped out the pushrods that needed changing, that only takes an hour or so and called it a day.
but as long as your happy with it thats all that matters. what springs cam with the cam setup you bought. depending on those too you'll be limited by a cam you could run if you so choose to get a new one in the future. if it were me i'd of just swapped out the pushrods that needed changing, that only takes an hour or so and called it a day.
The cam came with 2001 LS6 springs. I will have to replace the springs if I get a bigger cam, but as stated above thats not a problem for me. And if I sold the hotcam I would probly include the springs anyway.
In the words of Paul Harvey "Now you know the rest of the story".
Last edited by sleeperz28; Nov 7, 2003 at 10:18 PM.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Vacaville, CA
My car made 331/335 at the wheels with the mods in my sig. And it was having some KR above 4500, and HP peaked and flatlined at 5500 to the limiter at 6100. Not 100% on this, but I'm pretty sure that the 15:1 A/F at WOT has something to do with the KR problems I have. Damn stock tuning. Just ordered my Pacesetters from TSP tonight. We'll see how much I gain from them, and a true dual setup.
Sleeper,
With the graph starting at 0 and scaled by 50 hp on and the torque starting at 75 then scaled by 25 on the left, it makes it hard to objectively look at the graph for most of us.
I think you gave decent gain, but a lot of power is being left on the table. The shortie headers w/ 15/8 primaries to 1 1/2 with the hooker ones depending on the bends are killing you and the HPP3 tune isn't the best as it's not tailored to your set up. If you must run shorties, BBK has a new shorty with 1 3/4 primaries might helps some. The car needs Mac or LT's and a better tune IMO to make better power. ~360+ rwhp is well with in reach...
My 99 T/A made 323rwhp and 335 rwtq w/lid, dual/dual, stock manifolds, SLP MAF, plugs wires ie no HPP3, no shorties, no cam etc. Friend of mine's 00 Firehawk makes 326rwhp & 340rwtq with lid, corsa, stock manifolds, SLP MAF, plugs and wires, no other mods.
None of this is meant as a put down, you've got a excellent foundation to make more power with the a few additonal mods.
With the graph starting at 0 and scaled by 50 hp on and the torque starting at 75 then scaled by 25 on the left, it makes it hard to objectively look at the graph for most of us.
I think you gave decent gain, but a lot of power is being left on the table. The shortie headers w/ 15/8 primaries to 1 1/2 with the hooker ones depending on the bends are killing you and the HPP3 tune isn't the best as it's not tailored to your set up. If you must run shorties, BBK has a new shorty with 1 3/4 primaries might helps some. The car needs Mac or LT's and a better tune IMO to make better power. ~360+ rwhp is well with in reach...
My 99 T/A made 323rwhp and 335 rwtq w/lid, dual/dual, stock manifolds, SLP MAF, plugs wires ie no HPP3, no shorties, no cam etc. Friend of mine's 00 Firehawk makes 326rwhp & 340rwtq with lid, corsa, stock manifolds, SLP MAF, plugs and wires, no other mods.
None of this is meant as a put down, you've got a excellent foundation to make more power with the a few additonal mods.
I know this may be hard for some to belive but my car made 319 rwhp at sea level with no mods, all factory. It threw me for a loop seeing as how it is rated from the factory at 320 at the flywheel, or at least I think they do it from the flywheel. Anyone know the answer to that? Or why My car pulled those numbers stock? But remember that at my elevation of 3200 feet and a terible day it still pulled 289, check out the sign.
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The dyno #'s are kinda low for the mods, but at the track I trap 108-109mph consistanly before the cam. The race weight was a little over 3600lbs too. My ET is not very consistant but hopefully a shiftlight will help that.
I don't put too much faith in dyno #'s since the 1/4 times are what really matter to me. But since its too late to goto the dragstrip I went to the dyno. I was also looking for this info before I needed the pushrods without much luck, so I though I'd post it incase others wanted to see.
I know the shorties and tuning give little benefit(possibly canceled out by the 12 bolt), but both were on the car when I bought it and it did not come with the HPP3 to return it to stock.
Hopefully I can get the money for LT's and dyno tuning before next season . Add ET streets and I hope to see 11's 
.
I don't put too much faith in dyno #'s since the 1/4 times are what really matter to me. But since its too late to goto the dragstrip I went to the dyno. I was also looking for this info before I needed the pushrods without much luck, so I though I'd post it incase others wanted to see.
I know the shorties and tuning give little benefit(possibly canceled out by the 12 bolt), but both were on the car when I bought it and it did not come with the HPP3 to return it to stock.
Hopefully I can get the money for LT's and dyno tuning before next season
. Add ET streets and I hope to see 11's . Last edited by sleeperz28; Nov 8, 2003 at 03:48 PM.
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For the hell of it here is a link to my before and after hotcam dyno results:
1- Lid, Macs w/orp, magnaflow - 327rwhp 333rwtq
2- Above mods plus hotcam, LS6 intake w/28.6lb injs, Ported TB - 365 rwhp 372 rwtq.
http://www.tatommy.com/dynoruns.htm
I think you got a great deal for $200. Great hp to $ ratio!
Tommy
1- Lid, Macs w/orp, magnaflow - 327rwhp 333rwtq
2- Above mods plus hotcam, LS6 intake w/28.6lb injs, Ported TB - 365 rwhp 372 rwtq.
http://www.tatommy.com/dynoruns.htm
I think you got a great deal for $200. Great hp to $ ratio!
Tommy
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From: League City, Texas
TEXAS WS6---My 02 Z28 with 2.73's pulled 331/345 bone stock with an MTI Lid. I have no idea why GM rates them low...maybe for insurance. If you take a closer look at spec's you will notice on a Z28/Trans Am it says 310hp @ 5200rpm a little below peak hp.
Originally Posted by Texas_WS6
I know this may be hard for some to belive but my car made 319 rwhp at sea level with no mods, all factory. It threw me for a loop seeing as how it is rated from the factory at 320 at the flywheel, or at least I think they do it from the flywheel. Anyone know the answer to that? Or why My car pulled those numbers stock? But remember that at my elevation of 3200 feet and a terible day it still pulled 289, check out the sign.
the ls1 in the fbody and the ls1 in the vette dyno within the same range, gm still wants to keep the idea that the vette is more powerful then its fbody brethern at a substantial cost less. vettes are still faster due to lighter weight and better aerodynamics but there pushin the same hp as you and me. factory ratings dont mean **** as you have found it. anyone in the know-how on the ls1 knows that the motors in the ls1 fbodies are underated, its just convincing those who arent in the know that the gm rated flywheel is what some of them put to the ground. average ls1 hp is around 300-310 depending on year and tranny.
Originally Posted by MrHughesZ28
TEXAS WS6---My 02 Z28 with 2.73's pulled 331/345 bone stock with an MTI Lid. I have no idea why GM rates them low...maybe for insurance. If you take a closer look at spec's you will notice on a Z28/Trans Am it says 310hp @ 5200rpm a little below peak hp.
