Cam a Ls1 with 180+K?
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From: Royal Oak, Mi
Cam a Ls1 with 180+K? Well I bought a 99 LS1 last year with 170K on it. The car was babied and used synthetic oil all the time. Oil pressure is 40 psi hot idle and climbs without a problem. The rev limiter is set at 6200 and I spin it pretty close to there whenever I go to the track. I've had lapped the car earlier this year and it has run great. It used about 1/2 qt of oil every 3000 miles.
Anyway, I just picked up a set of 243 ls2 heads and am looking at a cam swap. I don't want anything big, but if I get a cam that makes peak power at ~6300, how much more stress would I really be putting on the drivetrain? I'd be looking into something like a 228/228 ~.580/.580 on a 114 lsa.
Anyway, I just picked up a set of 243 ls2 heads and am looking at a cam swap. I don't want anything big, but if I get a cam that makes peak power at ~6300, how much more stress would I really be putting on the drivetrain? I'd be looking into something like a 228/228 ~.580/.580 on a 114 lsa.
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From: BFE
Bearings might be an issue with a cam on a strong profile going past 6200
What I would do is a compression test to know the health of your cylinders and an oil analysis to see if any bearing particles in there.
This will give you clearer idea of how your motor stands healthwise.
Nothing worse than putting all time, $$ and effort into modding, only to have crap on you shortly after.
What I would do is a compression test to know the health of your cylinders and an oil analysis to see if any bearing particles in there.
This will give you clearer idea of how your motor stands healthwise.
Nothing worse than putting all time, $$ and effort into modding, only to have crap on you shortly after.
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From: Royal Oak, Mi
Bearings might be an issue with a cam on a strong profile going past 6200
What I would do is a compression test to know the health of your cylinders and an oil analysis to see if any bearing particles in there.
This will give you clearer idea of how your motor stands healthwise.
Nothing worse than putting all time, $$ and effort into modding, only to have crap on you shortly after.
What I would do is a compression test to know the health of your cylinders and an oil analysis to see if any bearing particles in there.
This will give you clearer idea of how your motor stands healthwise.
Nothing worse than putting all time, $$ and effort into modding, only to have crap on you shortly after.
200 rpm isnt a big deal, but you will be making more torque at a higher rpm then the stock heads and cam. thats going to put more stress on the bearings. going with a 228 cam your going to want to spin more then 6200 anyway and it would be good to get an idea how your motor stands with an oil analysis and compression check of ALL cylinders. The overall number isnt too important as long as its not too far out of spec but you need to be sure that every cylinder is very close to each other in pressure. if one cylinder is down on pressure a lot more then any other then that indicates a problem with that hole.
of course you dont need to do anything, you could install heads and cam and go for another 100k or there could be a problem starting that you may catch now before you invest money into this motor.
If your motor is running fine with good oil pressure and no odd noises odds are you will be fine. but its always good to check everything you can.
but i know if it were me with 190k id just pull the motor and put in forged pistons and rods and bearings and make sure the crank was within spec. cheap insurance and power potential just skyrocketed for future mods!
of course you dont need to do anything, you could install heads and cam and go for another 100k or there could be a problem starting that you may catch now before you invest money into this motor.
If your motor is running fine with good oil pressure and no odd noises odds are you will be fine. but its always good to check everything you can.
but i know if it were me with 190k id just pull the motor and put in forged pistons and rods and bearings and make sure the crank was within spec. cheap insurance and power potential just skyrocketed for future mods!
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I think what needs to be said has.
I would throw out there that we have a sale going on ISKY cams til the end of the month and I can tell you that they make great power. on my 01 T/A with a CAI and LT's I made 402RWHP with a 233/236 114+4 424RWHP cutouts open.
We also have Scat Rods and Pistons from all of our local MFG's SRP/JE, Mahle, Probe, Arias. All these companies are within a 1/2hour from us.
I would throw out there that we have a sale going on ISKY cams til the end of the month and I can tell you that they make great power. on my 01 T/A with a CAI and LT's I made 402RWHP with a 233/236 114+4 424RWHP cutouts open.
We also have Scat Rods and Pistons from all of our local MFG's SRP/JE, Mahle, Probe, Arias. All these companies are within a 1/2hour from us.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
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From: Royal Oak, Mi
how much more work would it be just to drop the pan and do the bearing/rod bolts? Also, any sponsor out there sell a bottom end rebuild package?(re-using the stock crank)
^^ i honestly would not even think of attempting that. when you install new rod bolts like arp they have more clamping force and the big end of the rod might not be perfect circle anymore and you will spin a bearing or toss a rod in not time.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
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From: Royal Oak, Mi
i'm pretty much set on buying a low mileage shortblock and using my top end components to make it work. That way theres less worries about spinning the motor that high.
