hydrolocked engine and insurance questions
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hydrolocked engine and insurance questions
Well I hydrolocked my engine this past Thursday after leaving work here in Dallas. It rained all day and the streets were flooded when I got out of work. Every damn intersection for miles was covered with water so I had to try. Just as I was about to make it through, a big rig comes along and just covers my car with water. At this point, smoke fills the cabin and it dies. I get it towed home hoping for the best. After inspecting it we found that the block is busted open on the bottom. Anyway long story long, it's covered under my State Farm insurance. Should I take it to a dealer for a new engine quote or to a speed shop. It had 173,000 miles on it and was a full bolt on/cam car. How can I get the best deal and what will they throw in there since they no longer make the regular ls1.
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We will see what happens today at 5:30. I wonder if I should remove any signs of my nitrous kit before he looks at it. It hasn't been used for over two years and the bottle and brackets are not even in the car. I just wonder if he will try and give me a hard time about it. I talked to the Chevy house and they told me they could replace it under my insurance so I don't know what to do. I guess I'll see what the adjuster says and then get some some quotes for repair. The dealer did say if they replaced it it would be with a new 6.0 gto motor. That would make my pee pee hard.
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I hydrolocked my engine about 5 years ago and it was covered by insurance, but they would not pay for a new engine, only a junkyard unit. They said that a new engine would make the car like new when it had 24000 miles on it and based on depreciation they would not pay to make it "better" than it was before. They located the junkyard unit and required that a shop install the core that they located. On top of that, the "new" engine had over 33000 miles on it. That's a bunch of crap and unacceptable in my book!
My incident occurred in the flooded parking lot of a convienience store, so I went out on a limb and filed a complaint with them. To make a long story short, they referred me to their insurance company and bottom line they paid for a new crate long block. The sweet part was the fact that they had approved me to get it from a local dealer, but by doing some shopping around, I found an LS6 longblock cheaper from an out of state dealer and they approved the purchase of that instead! Turned a crappy situation into something good!
Anyway, sorry to hear about your misfortune and good luck with getting it fixed. I just wanted to give you a heads up on the games the insurance companies play.
My incident occurred in the flooded parking lot of a convienience store, so I went out on a limb and filed a complaint with them. To make a long story short, they referred me to their insurance company and bottom line they paid for a new crate long block. The sweet part was the fact that they had approved me to get it from a local dealer, but by doing some shopping around, I found an LS6 longblock cheaper from an out of state dealer and they approved the purchase of that instead! Turned a crappy situation into something good!
Anyway, sorry to hear about your misfortune and good luck with getting it fixed. I just wanted to give you a heads up on the games the insurance companies play.
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See if they will cash you out, and buy your own stuff. Get an estimate on costs, and have that ready. And then negotiate a cash deal with the insurance company, and take care of it yourself. I bet you can get WAY more doing it that way.
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#10
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The adjuster will determine the value at the time of loss. When you check your policy it says specifically.
ACV less deductible.
ACV stands for, Actual Cash Value which means good old depreciation.
Depending on the year, make, and model that are going to determine the value, then see how much this swap will be. R&R motor, get a used motor from a junk yard, MAYBE you can get a fresh rebuild done for it. And put her back in.
Depending on the job you may come close but for these cars it should not be totalled but it is up to the adjuster.
ACV less deductible.
ACV stands for, Actual Cash Value which means good old depreciation.
Depending on the year, make, and model that are going to determine the value, then see how much this swap will be. R&R motor, get a used motor from a junk yard, MAYBE you can get a fresh rebuild done for it. And put her back in.
Depending on the job you may come close but for these cars it should not be totalled but it is up to the adjuster.