Polluter cam for me???
TECH Apprentice
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From: Southern Colorado Front Range
You want a good cam for your setup, please at least call a professional for some down to earth opinion.
Poluter with boost? you must be kidding right
and that cam is definitely not a DD, I do not care what anyone is BS around here.
You want good performance, nice lope sound and great DD, stick with a tight LSA cam in the high 22x> low 230x range. something with around 8 to 10* overlap max.
Caming is not about who is the biggest and baddest, it is about COMBINATION with the mods you have.
And if you want proof, well here it is: TFS, poluter + bolt ons
Where is the torque??? didn't brake 400 till 4700/4800 ??
That is not DD
To show you a smaller cam with stock valved 243s + bolt ons: (see attachement)
Look at the trq from 3500 onwards and compare.
Hint it is a 230 cam 110 LSA
Poluter with boost? you must be kidding right
and that cam is definitely not a DD, I do not care what anyone is BS around here.
You want good performance, nice lope sound and great DD, stick with a tight LSA cam in the high 22x> low 230x range. something with around 8 to 10* overlap max.
Caming is not about who is the biggest and baddest, it is about COMBINATION with the mods you have.
And if you want proof, well here it is: TFS, poluter + bolt ons
Where is the torque??? didn't brake 400 till 4700/4800 ??
That is not DD
To show you a smaller cam with stock valved 243s + bolt ons: (see attachement)
Look at the trq from 3500 onwards and compare.
Hint it is a 230 cam 110 LSA
...well... at least you helped blubyo02 make his decision.. lol
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Ah I see,
But LS7 heads are different than LS3/L92s and will require different spec cams. Polluter has too much overlap to be boost related. In street, you want very little overlap, I like keeping my boost cams around 0 overlap. But in race it can go up to 6* max (bleeding is ofset by more boost). that is me.
When shops try to hide specs it is usualy because they are offshelf lobes that anyone can duplicate (at least that is my experience). Shops with proprietary lobes couldn't give a darn because one cannot order those lobes unless you go through that shop
Even though specs at .050 only tell partial story and any true cam designer doesn't even use those to spec cams. They are just advertised at .050
Anyone just looking at .050 to spec a cam is legaly blind in my book.
But LS7 heads are different than LS3/L92s and will require different spec cams. Polluter has too much overlap to be boost related. In street, you want very little overlap, I like keeping my boost cams around 0 overlap. But in race it can go up to 6* max (bleeding is ofset by more boost). that is me.
When shops try to hide specs it is usualy because they are offshelf lobes that anyone can duplicate (at least that is my experience). Shops with proprietary lobes couldn't give a darn because one cannot order those lobes unless you go through that shop
Even though specs at .050 only tell partial story and any true cam designer doesn't even use those to spec cams. They are just advertised at .050
Anyone just looking at .050 to spec a cam is legaly blind in my book.
But like I and others have said just because you have a bigger cam doesn't mean its gonna be the best choice, ESPECIALLY for a DD. Like in my first post I told you that bigger cams have hidden cost that has to be taken into consideration, usually for most people while they are putting the cam in and someone decides to enlighten them. Im no cam expert by any means, I am getting to where i know alot about them just from all the installs and builds I have/am becoming apart of, the more overlap you run into the worse drivability is getting. I have a cam on the bigger end of the spectrum, and I was fully aware of what I was getting myself into but I also prepared and suited my combination for so. Glad you decided to use your head and not just throw the biggest cam you can find in your DD just because it will sound like a monster.
BTW if you look at the site just about every cam fits without fly cutting,LOL. Would any person with half *** knowledge install most of these if they actually measured PTV clearence..... HELL NO! Just some food for thought.
BTW if you look at the site just about every cam fits without fly cutting,LOL. Would any person with half *** knowledge install most of these if they actually measured PTV clearence..... HELL NO! Just some food for thought.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
If I were to put that cam in my F-Bod, I would need 4:11 gears (M6), 3.73 (4000+stall), LS6 intake at least, ported TB, FTRA/SSRA, aftermarket clutch for M6, 1 7/8 headers, no cats, free flow catback (or duals X dumped {best},
And for M6 a 12Bolt or 9 inch rear if you want any use at track or sticky tires.
That cam will have to rev to the moon, so any model below 01 would need to consider rod bolt upgrade.
Of course a heck of a tuner.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 347
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From: Southern Colorado Front Range
Ah I see,
But LS7 heads are different than LS3/L92s and will require different spec cams. Polluter has too much overlap to be boost related. In street, you want very little overlap, I like keeping my boost cams around 0 overlap. But in race it can go up to 6* max (bleeding is ofset by more boost). that is me.
When shops try to hide specs it is usualy because they are offshelf lobes that anyone can duplicate (at least that is my experience). Shops with proprietary lobes couldn't give a darn because one cannot order those lobes unless you go through that shop
Even though specs at .050 only tell partial story and any true cam designer doesn't even use those to spec cams. They are just advertised at .050
Anyone just looking at .050 to spec a cam is legaly blind in my book.
But LS7 heads are different than LS3/L92s and will require different spec cams. Polluter has too much overlap to be boost related. In street, you want very little overlap, I like keeping my boost cams around 0 overlap. But in race it can go up to 6* max (bleeding is ofset by more boost). that is me.
When shops try to hide specs it is usualy because they are offshelf lobes that anyone can duplicate (at least that is my experience). Shops with proprietary lobes couldn't give a darn because one cannot order those lobes unless you go through that shop
Even though specs at .050 only tell partial story and any true cam designer doesn't even use those to spec cams. They are just advertised at .050
Anyone just looking at .050 to spec a cam is legaly blind in my book.
I fully understand your point. But for the vast majority of enthusiasts, realistically, advertised specs are all they have to compare products with.
Also, the L92/LS3 heads are direct design descendants of the LS7 head. The differences are marginal enough that the LS7 stage 3 cam, designed to offset the flow ratio issue between intake and exhaust on the LS7, work very well with the LS3 and L92 for the same reason. Unless you are looking to build a maximum effort engine and have tons of extra money to spend on custom grinds and research, off the shelf grinds specifically for this head design work great. The Polluter may not be the cam for this head design only because it doesn't address that issue inherent to these heads.
Last edited by 108dragon; Jun 24, 2009 at 10:12 AM. Reason: IDK.. moral imperitive?
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
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From: Southern Colorado Front Range
Thank you, zflewbyu! Now that is pretty much all we need aside from the first hand review of the product to decide whether it is for us or not. Only other thing I would ask of people running this cam is what supporting mods they have, engine size, and tuning specs they are using... maybe a idle and running clip to get an idea of idle quality to expect.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
When you are comparing what is out there to choose what is best for your application, specs at .050 are better than no specs at all. To the potential buyer, why the specs aren't published is immaterial to the fact that we have nothing to compare thier products with others.
I fully understand your point. But for the vast majority of enthusiasts, realistically, advertised specs are all they have to compare products with.
Also, the L92/LS3 heads are direct design descendants of the LS7 head. The differences are marginal enough that the LS7 stage 3 cam, designed to offset the flow ratio issue between intake and exhaust on the LS7, work very well with the LS3 and L92 for the same reason. Unless you are looking to build a maximum effort engine and have tons of extra money to spend on custom grinds and research, off the shelf grinds specifically for this head design work great. The Polluter may not be the cam for this head design only because it doesn't address that issue inherent to these heads.
I fully understand your point. But for the vast majority of enthusiasts, realistically, advertised specs are all they have to compare products with.
Also, the L92/LS3 heads are direct design descendants of the LS7 head. The differences are marginal enough that the LS7 stage 3 cam, designed to offset the flow ratio issue between intake and exhaust on the LS7, work very well with the LS3 and L92 for the same reason. Unless you are looking to build a maximum effort engine and have tons of extra money to spend on custom grinds and research, off the shelf grinds specifically for this head design work great. The Polluter may not be the cam for this head design only because it doesn't address that issue inherent to these heads.
What info are you deducting from just seing .050 specs?
You have to go way deeper than that to make any sensible judgement. Mainly this involves cam dynamics and more precisely valve events. If one does not understand that, all you'll say is one is bigger than the other.
It is like buying a whole car because the color looks good. But how does it perform? what can and cannot it do? What and how is it put together?
Same criteria applyies to cams (grosso modo).
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
i like the TFS's but dont really want to run aftermarket rockers...
what do you think is better between the TEA or Cartek with a larger cam like the g5x3...or maybe something custom...what do you have in mind? pm if it is long
Notice how almost everyone in this thread says "well I was gona go with that cam but I didn't so you shouldn't either I THINK it will be a bad choice" how can they say its not a good cam if they've never had it take it from me SOME ONE WHO HAS ACTUALLY HAD THE CAM it is a bad *** cam! Sounds wicked and had more low end than my 228/232 cam and as for daily driving it I daily'd it every day with 4.56s in a m6 and LOVED it! And how are people gona say they wish they had a better ball park of the specs its on the website 24x 24x .61x .61x 112 Lsa or 110
I can tell you both sides are in the lower 240s and the lift isn't over .620
DUH!
Its a great cam man and from some one how has dd'd it I think you'd love it but its all up to you
I can tell you both sides are in the lower 240s and the lift isn't over .620
DUH!
Its a great cam man and from some one how has dd'd it I think you'd love it but its all up to you
I hear you 02 antivnm it does sound bad *** i have to agree with you on that it is a very attractable cam package also from tick for $880 however,I just dont think i should go that big being that i am a rookie when it comes to cams and such. I have learned so much from this site and am getting a better understanding. But just out of curiosity what kind of fuel mileage did your car get with the 4.56 gears? was your low end driveability really affected that much? what kind of numbers did you put down with it and what supporting mods?
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From: Southern Colorado Front Range
Notice how almost everyone in this thread says "well I was gona go with that cam but I didn't so you shouldn't either I THINK it will be a bad choice" how can they say its not a good cam if they've never had it take it from me SOME ONE WHO HAS ACTUALLY HAD THE CAM it is a bad *** cam! Sounds wicked and had more low end than my 228/232 cam and as for daily driving it I daily'd it every day with 4.56s in a m6 and LOVED it! And how are people gona say they wish they had a better ball park of the specs its on the website 24x 24x .61x .61x 112 Lsa or 110
I can tell you both sides are in the lower 240s and the lift isn't over .620
DUH!
Its a great cam man and from some one how has dd'd it I think you'd love it but its all up to you
I can tell you both sides are in the lower 240s and the lift isn't over .620
DUH!
Its a great cam man and from some one how has dd'd it I think you'd love it but its all up to you
We look at what we are given to look at to decide. If no specs (secret-secret half *** ballpark numbers) are given then we have nothing with which to base the decision on. I don't know about the rest of you, but my car sees a LOT of highway use and 4.56s would negate any benefit of even having a sixth gear for all practical purposes. If I need to go with something like 4.56s to benefit from the cam, then my negatory to it would be based on that alone. Hell, coming out of 1rst gear with 4.56s, even a GMPP stage3 or TRex cam would have hella torque. lol I can't think of anyone off hand that I even remotely know who rolls a DD with 4.56s. Thats a drag car or a barhopper!
BTW, what cam are you rolling with in your boosted engine?