Looking into the Streetsweeper and the Hellion cam from New Era
07-11-2009, 10:00 AM
#21
07-11-2009, 10:18 AM
#22
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Ok, didnt know that, havent done the track thing in like 6 years. My cousins 2006 mustang with a supercharger on it does 12.5 at 113. Seems kinda odd for 390 rwhp.
07-11-2009, 11:40 AM
#23
best is 123.9 so far. ya It runs in the low 120's, 11.5-11.3 on Drs. 1st time at the track it was going 120-121 stock tires running high 11's. Still with the slp catback, ls6/ported TB ,stock maf, slp lid. So there still more left with a ported fast92/ 92 TB, FTPlid,true duals, Sd tune..
07-11-2009, 02:09 PM
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ok sweet. Let me have your ear (or eyes to be more exact) for a few minutes. We need to talk for a minute. I want to save you money, correct some incorrect ideas you have, and help you to get exactly what you want out of your car without trading off other things (like low end torque, drivability, MPG, etc) when you dont have to.
Flat out, you have the wrong ideas about cams. Second, the advice i see in this thread baffles me. Are some of you guys really suggesting cams in the upper 230's and into the 240's on an LS1, with 241 ls1 heads, no headers, for a pretty much stock car that is going to bee a street car with a stick?? REALLY????
ok, whatever.
Sweet, you dont need a large cam to get that nasty cam lope you want. You can have a much smaller cam that keeps its drivability, keeps its low end torque, isnt a bitch to tune, and still gives you as nasty a lope as you want. there is much more to cam design then picking the intake\exhaust duration numbers at .50 lift (236-240, etc), and the LSA.
Also, when you get into larger cams (230+) you need cylinder heads, among the other mods like headers, intake manifold, etc, to really take advantage of what a large cam can give you. The larger cam will shift where the power comes on higher in the RPM range. However, without all the other mods, the power delivered in the upper RPM range wont increase as much as it should, since the rest of the motor (heads, headers, etc) cant keep up with the needs at higher RPMS. So what you wind up doing is trading off ALOT of power down low (under 3500rpms) for a little bit of power up top (above 6000 rpms). So as i hope you can see, that is a really bad choice.
If you go with a large cam, you are not going to like your results. Yes, your car may read a little higher on the peak HP number. for example it may say "410rwhp" at peak with the big cam as opposed to "400rwhp" at peak with the smaller cam. However, if you look at the torque curves, it will be a joke. The larger cam will get crushed everywhere except for at that small 500rpm window by the peak power. Why would you do this?? You realize unless you use the car as a track car that keeps the RPM's right around the peak power RPM all the way down the track, your car will be slower than the smaller cam car, probably by a good amount. Do you drive around at 6500rpms all day?? How often does your car even spend above 5k rpms?? So why would you trade off a load of power below 4000rpms to HOPEFULLY gain a real little bit above 5500rpms, which i am not even sure about since u dont have heads, headers, etc. If your car is a street car, you want your power range to be as big as it can be between 2k rpms and 6k rpms. Who cares about peak power when it is only maybe 1-15th of the area in the power range, and you barely spend any time there?? look at it this way (analogy)... what do you think looks better... a car that has had the entire car painted nicely with a nice quality paint job, or a car that has a shitty paint job with rust spots, dull paint, chips, etc all over the car except for the hood, which is the shiniest hood you have ever seen with custom paint?? You get my drift?? That is essentially what you would be doing if you put a large cam in your car without installing full mods and it being meant for track use where it will be above 5k rpms the whole time.
So unless you are willing to spend a large amount of money on good heads, headers, intake manifold, tuning, bolt ons, etc... i would not go with a large cam. I am speaking from experience. I have virtually every motor mod, and i went with the 236/240 streetsweeper cam. I have the bigger LS2, way more mods, and i personally think i went TOO big with my cam for a street car.
So here is the deal. Tell us these things....
1. What is your budget?
2. What is the use of the car? Be honest. Is it your daily driver? is it a weekend cruiser? is it going to the see the track more than 2x per year, or will it be a track only car?
3. What do you want from a cam?
4. How important is gas mileage, drivability, manners, cam Lope (sound), emmisions testing, etc.
If you are on a budget, and you want your car to be the fastest street car it can be, i would do this...
Buy a set of used 243 heads from someone on here. they usually cost about 500 bucks. Look for some used long tube headers. If you cant find used long tubes for under $800, buy yourself some pace setter long tubes (without cats if you dont have emission testing). Then contact ED Curtis (EDC at Flowtech inductions) and let him know you would like a cam. he will send you a cam card, which asks all the things i asked above only in much more depth. This is to give you exactly what you want. You can also contact SStrokerAce and ask either him to speck you a BRE cam. there are other fellas who know how to spec cams, so u can ask around if you want. i just know of the results from these 2.
So you got your heads ($500), headers ($700), cam and cam kit ($800-1000). now find what shop you want to do the work and tune the car. Search the reputations of the shops. Ask about prices for installing said parts and tuning. Then you are off to the races. If you have more coin to spend, send the heads out to get ported and polished.
Flat out, you have the wrong ideas about cams. Second, the advice i see in this thread baffles me. Are some of you guys really suggesting cams in the upper 230's and into the 240's on an LS1, with 241 ls1 heads, no headers, for a pretty much stock car that is going to bee a street car with a stick?? REALLY????
ok, whatever.
Sweet, you dont need a large cam to get that nasty cam lope you want. You can have a much smaller cam that keeps its drivability, keeps its low end torque, isnt a bitch to tune, and still gives you as nasty a lope as you want. there is much more to cam design then picking the intake\exhaust duration numbers at .50 lift (236-240, etc), and the LSA.
Also, when you get into larger cams (230+) you need cylinder heads, among the other mods like headers, intake manifold, etc, to really take advantage of what a large cam can give you. The larger cam will shift where the power comes on higher in the RPM range. However, without all the other mods, the power delivered in the upper RPM range wont increase as much as it should, since the rest of the motor (heads, headers, etc) cant keep up with the needs at higher RPMS. So what you wind up doing is trading off ALOT of power down low (under 3500rpms) for a little bit of power up top (above 6000 rpms). So as i hope you can see, that is a really bad choice.
If you go with a large cam, you are not going to like your results. Yes, your car may read a little higher on the peak HP number. for example it may say "410rwhp" at peak with the big cam as opposed to "400rwhp" at peak with the smaller cam. However, if you look at the torque curves, it will be a joke. The larger cam will get crushed everywhere except for at that small 500rpm window by the peak power. Why would you do this?? You realize unless you use the car as a track car that keeps the RPM's right around the peak power RPM all the way down the track, your car will be slower than the smaller cam car, probably by a good amount. Do you drive around at 6500rpms all day?? How often does your car even spend above 5k rpms?? So why would you trade off a load of power below 4000rpms to HOPEFULLY gain a real little bit above 5500rpms, which i am not even sure about since u dont have heads, headers, etc. If your car is a street car, you want your power range to be as big as it can be between 2k rpms and 6k rpms. Who cares about peak power when it is only maybe 1-15th of the area in the power range, and you barely spend any time there?? look at it this way (analogy)... what do you think looks better... a car that has had the entire car painted nicely with a nice quality paint job, or a car that has a shitty paint job with rust spots, dull paint, chips, etc all over the car except for the hood, which is the shiniest hood you have ever seen with custom paint?? You get my drift?? That is essentially what you would be doing if you put a large cam in your car without installing full mods and it being meant for track use where it will be above 5k rpms the whole time.
So unless you are willing to spend a large amount of money on good heads, headers, intake manifold, tuning, bolt ons, etc... i would not go with a large cam. I am speaking from experience. I have virtually every motor mod, and i went with the 236/240 streetsweeper cam. I have the bigger LS2, way more mods, and i personally think i went TOO big with my cam for a street car.
So here is the deal. Tell us these things....
1. What is your budget?
2. What is the use of the car? Be honest. Is it your daily driver? is it a weekend cruiser? is it going to the see the track more than 2x per year, or will it be a track only car?
3. What do you want from a cam?
4. How important is gas mileage, drivability, manners, cam Lope (sound), emmisions testing, etc.
If you are on a budget, and you want your car to be the fastest street car it can be, i would do this...
Buy a set of used 243 heads from someone on here. they usually cost about 500 bucks. Look for some used long tube headers. If you cant find used long tubes for under $800, buy yourself some pace setter long tubes (without cats if you dont have emission testing). Then contact ED Curtis (EDC at Flowtech inductions) and let him know you would like a cam. he will send you a cam card, which asks all the things i asked above only in much more depth. This is to give you exactly what you want. You can also contact SStrokerAce and ask either him to speck you a BRE cam. there are other fellas who know how to spec cams, so u can ask around if you want. i just know of the results from these 2.
So you got your heads ($500), headers ($700), cam and cam kit ($800-1000). now find what shop you want to do the work and tune the car. Search the reputations of the shops. Ask about prices for installing said parts and tuning. Then you are off to the races. If you have more coin to spend, send the heads out to get ported and polished.
Last edited by Johny GTO; 07-11-2009 at 02:17 PM.
07-11-2009, 02:36 PM
#26
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I am planning on intake, headers, ported throttle body and no heads. If it is really worth it, I will do heads, just not sure. If Studderin is running high 12's at 120 on street tires, that pretty darn quick for cam only.
1. What is your budget? I dont have a budget, just want quality parts. If heads are going to cost me alot of money and I am only going to get 20hp more, its not worth it to me.
2. What is the use of the car? Be honest. Is it your daily driver? is it a weekend cruiser? is it going to the see the track more than 2x per year, or will it be a track only car?
It will see the track porbably 2 times a year, maybe more eventually. I drive it when its nice out. It sits in the garage all the time, always is spotless. Wax it a couple times a month.
3. What do you want from a cam?, a big lope and more power.
4. How important is gas mileage, drivability, manners, cam Lope (sound), emmisions testing, etc.
Here is my ranking
1. has to pass emissions
2. cam lope
3. drieveability
4. manners,
5 gas mileage
1. What is your budget? I dont have a budget, just want quality parts. If heads are going to cost me alot of money and I am only going to get 20hp more, its not worth it to me.
2. What is the use of the car? Be honest. Is it your daily driver? is it a weekend cruiser? is it going to the see the track more than 2x per year, or will it be a track only car?
It will see the track porbably 2 times a year, maybe more eventually. I drive it when its nice out. It sits in the garage all the time, always is spotless. Wax it a couple times a month.
3. What do you want from a cam?, a big lope and more power.
4. How important is gas mileage, drivability, manners, cam Lope (sound), emmisions testing, etc.
Here is my ranking
1. has to pass emissions
2. cam lope
3. drieveability
4. manners,
5 gas mileage
07-11-2009, 02:45 PM
#28
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I am planning on intake, headers, ported throttle body and no heads. If it is really worth it, I will do heads, just not sure. If Studderin is running high 12's at 120 on street tires, that pretty darn quick for cam only.
1. What is your budget? I dont have a budget, just want quality parts. If heads are going to cost me alot of money and I am only going to get 20hp more, its not worth it to me.
2. What is the use of the car? Be honest. Is it your daily driver? is it a weekend cruiser? is it going to the see the track more than 2x per year, or will it be a track only car?
It will see the track porbably 2 times a year, maybe more eventually. I drive it when its nice out. It sits in the garage all the time, always is spotless. Wax it a couple times a month.
3. What do you want from a cam?, a big lope and more power.
4. How important is gas mileage, drivability, manners, cam Lope (sound), emmisions testing, etc.
Here is my ranking
1. has to pass emissions
2. cam lope
3. drieveability
4. manners,
5 gas mileage
1. What is your budget? I dont have a budget, just want quality parts. If heads are going to cost me alot of money and I am only going to get 20hp more, its not worth it to me.
2. What is the use of the car? Be honest. Is it your daily driver? is it a weekend cruiser? is it going to the see the track more than 2x per year, or will it be a track only car?
It will see the track porbably 2 times a year, maybe more eventually. I drive it when its nice out. It sits in the garage all the time, always is spotless. Wax it a couple times a month.
3. What do you want from a cam?, a big lope and more power.
4. How important is gas mileage, drivability, manners, cam Lope (sound), emmisions testing, etc.
Here is my ranking
1. has to pass emissions
2. cam lope
3. drieveability
4. manners,
5 gas mileage
I agree that a big cam is not necessary and the Streetsweeper HT is probably the range you are looking for. You'll have to define very carefully "Pass emission", because if it is similar to Cali. emission, then overlap becomes a big factor to pass.
07-11-2009, 02:47 PM
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07-12-2009, 12:48 AM
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I am planning on intake, headers, ported throttle body and no heads. If it is really worth it, I will do heads, just not sure. If Studderin is running high 12's at 120 on street tires, that pretty darn quick for cam only.
1. What is your budget? I dont have a budget, just want quality parts. If heads are going to cost me alot of money and I am only going to get 20hp more, its not worth it to me.
2. What is the use of the car? Be honest. Is it your daily driver? is it a weekend cruiser? is it going to the see the track more than 2x per year, or will it be a track only car?
It will see the track porbably 2 times a year, maybe more eventually. I drive it when its nice out. It sits in the garage all the time, always is spotless. Wax it a couple times a month.
3. What do you want from a cam?, a big lope and more power.
4. How important is gas mileage, drivability, manners, cam Lope (sound), emmisions testing, etc.
Here is my ranking
1. has to pass emissions
2. cam lope
3. drieveability
4. manners,
5 gas mileage
1. What is your budget? I dont have a budget, just want quality parts. If heads are going to cost me alot of money and I am only going to get 20hp more, its not worth it to me.
2. What is the use of the car? Be honest. Is it your daily driver? is it a weekend cruiser? is it going to the see the track more than 2x per year, or will it be a track only car?
It will see the track porbably 2 times a year, maybe more eventually. I drive it when its nice out. It sits in the garage all the time, always is spotless. Wax it a couple times a month.
3. What do you want from a cam?, a big lope and more power.
4. How important is gas mileage, drivability, manners, cam Lope (sound), emmisions testing, etc.
Here is my ranking
1. has to pass emissions
2. cam lope
3. drieveability
4. manners,
5 gas mileage
anyway...
based on what you said, here is what i recommend, take it for what it is worth. Understand i have been where you are, and looking back i wish i had either bought a maggie, or went with this...
1. buy some 243 LS6 heads off of someone who has an ls2 and is sellign their stock heads cause they are going with aftermarket. This will run you roughly 500 bucks, and you will gain a good 20rwhp peak and 20rwtq throughout the rpm range, not just peak.
2. buy some used long tubes. I suggest either kooks or ARH 1-7/8ths. nothing wrong with 1-3/4 headers if u find a good deal on them. U want catted midpipes, or you wont pass inspections. If you cant find a deal on some used long tubes, which you should, or you just dont want to wait, buy some pace setter long tubes. They will save u about $800 bucks or so (paying for the heads), and will only cost maybe 5-10hp. If you dont want to skimp here, then hold out for the used headers (kooks or ARH).
3. intake manifold: try for a used Fast 90\92, ported if possible. If you want to spend the coin, drop the $900 or so on a ported fast. If you want to save dough, go with a ported ls6 manifold (by ls2portworks, i think his name is corey). dont settle for anything else, as these are ur best 2 options by far.
4. cam time. have a cam spec'd. You need to let the guy doing your cam know what mods you have, thats why you need to get the other stuff first, so you can design the cam around the mods you have. Based on what you have said, make sure you specify that you want the following out of your cam..
- needs to pass emissions.
-what transmission you have, manual or auto. if you have an auto, need to tell him what size stall. If you have an auto, you should get a new stall.
- street car. It needs to have good manners. no bucking, stalling, etc. You want power to come in soon as possible, but to not die at 5500rpms.
-you want the cam to lope as hard as possible without failing emissions.
I would imagine you are going to get a cam in the 218-226 range (intake duration). I know that looks small compared to the 240's u see people doing, but it isnt. Its a good deal larger than your stock cam. it will also have a higher lift than stock (prob over .570), and a tight LSA (prob under 112 LSA).
However, i may be wrong about the specs. I was just trying to give you an idea of what you may get. If it matters to you that much, or think it will bother you, tell the cam guy you dont need to know the specs, as long as it meets your goals. That way, u can tell urself u have a 240/246 sized cam.\, and still be happy
07-12-2009, 08:32 AM
#31
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ok. yes heads make a big difference, but they are also expensive. It really depends on how much of a gain are you willing to pay for. Honestly, if you are willing to spend the money on heads, cam, headers, intake manifold, bolt ons, tuning, install, etc.... you should buy a magna charger. Similar price, but much more power available and growth, as well as not sacrificing a damn thing for the powah!!
anyway...
based on what you said, here is what i recommend, take it for what it is worth. Understand i have been where you are, and looking back i wish i had either bought a maggie, or went with this...
1. buy some 243 LS6 heads off of someone who has an ls2 and is sellign their stock heads cause they are going with aftermarket. This will run you roughly 500 bucks, and you will gain a good 20rwhp peak and 20rwtq throughout the rpm range, not just peak.
2. buy some used long tubes. I suggest either kooks or ARH 1-7/8ths. nothing wrong with 1-3/4 headers if u find a good deal on them. U want catted midpipes, or you wont pass inspections. If you cant find a deal on some used long tubes, which you should, or you just dont want to wait, buy some pace setter long tubes. They will save u about $800 bucks or so (paying for the heads), and will only cost maybe 5-10hp. If you dont want to skimp here, then hold out for the used headers (kooks or ARH).
3. intake manifold: try for a used Fast 90\92, ported if possible. If you want to spend the coin, drop the $900 or so on a ported fast. If you want to save dough, go with a ported ls6 manifold (by ls2portworks, i think his name is corey). dont settle for anything else, as these are ur best 2 options by far.
4. cam time. have a cam spec'd. You need to let the guy doing your cam know what mods you have, thats why you need to get the other stuff first, so you can design the cam around the mods you have. Based on what you have said, make sure you specify that you want the following out of your cam..
- needs to pass emissions.
-what transmission you have, manual or auto. if you have an auto, need to tell him what size stall. If you have an auto, you should get a new stall.
- street car. It needs to have good manners. no bucking, stalling, etc. You want power to come in soon as possible, but to not die at 5500rpms.
-you want the cam to lope as hard as possible without failing emissions.
I would imagine you are going to get a cam in the 218-226 range (intake duration). I know that looks small compared to the 240's u see people doing, but it isnt. Its a good deal larger than your stock cam. it will also have a higher lift than stock (prob over .570), and a tight LSA (prob under 112 LSA).
However, i may be wrong about the specs. I was just trying to give you an idea of what you may get. If it matters to you that much, or think it will bother you, tell the cam guy you dont need to know the specs, as long as it meets your goals. That way, u can tell urself u have a 240/246 sized cam.\, and still be happy
anyway...
based on what you said, here is what i recommend, take it for what it is worth. Understand i have been where you are, and looking back i wish i had either bought a maggie, or went with this...
1. buy some 243 LS6 heads off of someone who has an ls2 and is sellign their stock heads cause they are going with aftermarket. This will run you roughly 500 bucks, and you will gain a good 20rwhp peak and 20rwtq throughout the rpm range, not just peak.
2. buy some used long tubes. I suggest either kooks or ARH 1-7/8ths. nothing wrong with 1-3/4 headers if u find a good deal on them. U want catted midpipes, or you wont pass inspections. If you cant find a deal on some used long tubes, which you should, or you just dont want to wait, buy some pace setter long tubes. They will save u about $800 bucks or so (paying for the heads), and will only cost maybe 5-10hp. If you dont want to skimp here, then hold out for the used headers (kooks or ARH).
3. intake manifold: try for a used Fast 90\92, ported if possible. If you want to spend the coin, drop the $900 or so on a ported fast. If you want to save dough, go with a ported ls6 manifold (by ls2portworks, i think his name is corey). dont settle for anything else, as these are ur best 2 options by far.
4. cam time. have a cam spec'd. You need to let the guy doing your cam know what mods you have, thats why you need to get the other stuff first, so you can design the cam around the mods you have. Based on what you have said, make sure you specify that you want the following out of your cam..
- needs to pass emissions.
-what transmission you have, manual or auto. if you have an auto, need to tell him what size stall. If you have an auto, you should get a new stall.
- street car. It needs to have good manners. no bucking, stalling, etc. You want power to come in soon as possible, but to not die at 5500rpms.
-you want the cam to lope as hard as possible without failing emissions.
I would imagine you are going to get a cam in the 218-226 range (intake duration). I know that looks small compared to the 240's u see people doing, but it isnt. Its a good deal larger than your stock cam. it will also have a higher lift than stock (prob over .570), and a tight LSA (prob under 112 LSA).
However, i may be wrong about the specs. I was just trying to give you an idea of what you may get. If it matters to you that much, or think it will bother you, tell the cam guy you dont need to know the specs, as long as it meets your goals. That way, u can tell urself u have a 240/246 sized cam.\, and still be happy
The downside to that is some people might believe you and put such a cam in their engine. I'd feel badly then for misleading them....well maybe just a little.
Jon
PS: I don't think your good advice is getting thru. Frustrating, isn't it?
Last edited by Old SStroker; 07-12-2009 at 08:38 AM.
07-12-2009, 08:48 AM
#32
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thanks for all the advice, I have been looking at used headers and have been searchin for the LS6 manifold. I wasnt aware of using those heads. i Understand what you are saying, just trying to take it all in. I really dont want to spend outrageous amounts of money on the car. My last one I bought some stuff that really wasnt worth it, like a $70 smooth bellows. I as far as headers, I found pacesetters with a TSP catted Y for around $800 coated, doesnt see like a bad deal.
Oh yeah, I check ls2portworks, its officially closed. any other suggestions.
Oh yeah, I check ls2portworks, its officially closed. any other suggestions.
07-12-2009, 01:35 PM
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OldStroker,
Lol. I hear ya man. I really hope my advice gets through. I wish someone had said the same **** to me when i did my build.
Sweet,
I was unaware that ls2portworks closed. Perhaps they changed names, i cant imagine they just closed up shop, as they were very successful and sold proven, inexpensive products.
Those heads, the LS6 243 heads, are a large improvement over the ls1 heads. They are inexpensive, and if you want to put a few bucks into them, you can have a nice valvejob and maybe a lil porting done for $500-1000 bucks. This way, you have made a big leap up and not spent much. Again, its how much do you want to spend?
As for advice, i recommend this...
Search on here, andd maybe some other LS or firebird\camaro related sites you may know of for used parts. Alot of people get rid of perfectly good, practically new stuff for a great deal simply cause they are changing things up, selling the car, need money, etc. For $800 bucks, you can do better than pacesetters and a TSP catted Y, me thinks. Hey, even if you only find the longtubes for sale used, you can then buy some catted midpipes or something somewhere else. Take you time and dont be in a rush, as rushing will cause your budget to swell fast, and ur results will be less than stellar.
Please, whatever you do, take my advice about the cam. Get the rest of your mods together, so you can design the cam around them. Then have someone spec you the cam. Dont go big, it isnt worth it in a street car at all.
Good luck. And remember, dont believe everything you read on the boards. You could be reading soomething from a 18 year old know-nothing with 40000 posts, or someone who is just parroting what he read from a 18 year old know nothing.
Lol. I hear ya man. I really hope my advice gets through. I wish someone had said the same **** to me when i did my build.
Sweet,
I was unaware that ls2portworks closed. Perhaps they changed names, i cant imagine they just closed up shop, as they were very successful and sold proven, inexpensive products.
Those heads, the LS6 243 heads, are a large improvement over the ls1 heads. They are inexpensive, and if you want to put a few bucks into them, you can have a nice valvejob and maybe a lil porting done for $500-1000 bucks. This way, you have made a big leap up and not spent much. Again, its how much do you want to spend?
As for advice, i recommend this...
Search on here, andd maybe some other LS or firebird\camaro related sites you may know of for used parts. Alot of people get rid of perfectly good, practically new stuff for a great deal simply cause they are changing things up, selling the car, need money, etc. For $800 bucks, you can do better than pacesetters and a TSP catted Y, me thinks. Hey, even if you only find the longtubes for sale used, you can then buy some catted midpipes or something somewhere else. Take you time and dont be in a rush, as rushing will cause your budget to swell fast, and ur results will be less than stellar.
Please, whatever you do, take my advice about the cam. Get the rest of your mods together, so you can design the cam around them. Then have someone spec you the cam. Dont go big, it isnt worth it in a street car at all.
Good luck. And remember, dont believe everything you read on the boards. You could be reading soomething from a 18 year old know-nothing with 40000 posts, or someone who is just parroting what he read from a 18 year old know nothing.
07-13-2009, 05:32 PM
#34
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so after all these people were recommending a large cam, i came in here and said they are all wrong, it will not perform well, and even had the audacity to recommend a much smaller cam.... and no one is hurling insults my way??? No one is screaming bloody murder, calling me a jerk-off, or at the least trying to say i am wrong based on so-and-so and such-and-such???
Wow. I dont recall ever seeing that happen on this board.
Wow. I dont recall ever seeing that happen on this board.
07-13-2009, 05:55 PM
#35
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I agree, that is why I normally dont post on these boards, alot of younger people start problems on here. Must be its all good info and its all true
07-13-2009, 10:46 PM
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so after all these people were recommending a large cam, i came in here and said they are all wrong, it will not perform well, and even had the audacity to recommend a much smaller cam.... and no one is hurling insults my way??? No one is screaming bloody murder, calling me a jerk-off, or at the least trying to say i am wrong based on so-and-so and such-and-such???
Wow. I dont recall ever seeing that happen on this board.
Wow. I dont recall ever seeing that happen on this board.
07-13-2009, 11:18 PM
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p.s. nice build on your car. looks\performs great. well done.
07-14-2009, 06:00 AM
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Now all I have to do is pick my headers, I was thinking pacesetters but I would hate to get them and then they look like crap in a couple years.
07-14-2009, 06:54 AM
#39
all headers will unless you get stainless...you really cant beat the ebay headers for the price and being SS...are the ARH, QTP, or Kooks no but they are 1/3 the price...
07-14-2009, 12:57 PM
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sweet,
If you are planning on keeping this car for a while, then no, i would not recommend the pace setters unless you find a pair that is coated or something. They will look like **** in 4 years or so.
So with that in mind, i would recommend you hold out for a used set of Kooks or ARH long tube headers. Keep checking the "parts for sale" section of the board, as well as the "your state classifieds", and the "your region classifieds". You will come across a used set for your car, i would garauntee it. It may take a day, it may take 2 weeks... but you will find some.
If you dont want to wait, and dont want to worry about the things that come along with buying used (possibly getting scammed, getting ****, etc) go ahead and drop the coin to buy them new.
figure this for your budget (rough estimates)....
Headers and catted mid pipes: $1100
Cam and cam kit: $900
intake manifold: $800
Underdrive pulley: $190
Install and misc. parts needed: $2000 (rough guess)
Tune: $500
Total: $5400
Now something to think about.... if you are willing to spend more than that, and think to yourself "well, i can spend more than that, so let me drop $1500-2500 on heads".
$5400 + $2000 (heads) = $7400
with that in mind,hold on a sec. Are you handy with a wrench? Can you work on a car a bit, or is changing oil hard for you? Do you have a friend who can do some work on a car if you cant, or just to help you out? If you can work on the car yourself, or have a buddy who is good with that and is willing to help you... i ask you to consider this....
Maggie 1900 blower: $5800
headers and catted mids: $1100
tune: $500 (if you dont keeep the stock maggie tune, which i wouldnt)
Self installed maggie and headers: $0
If you had to have the headers installed but could do the maggie: $400 (guess)
Total estimate if you self install: $7400 (self installed maggie and headers)
Total estimate if you have the headers installed: $7800
So as you see from my estimates above, if you are willing to spend the money and go the heads\cam\headers\bolt ons route (est. $7400) , i would recommend you to instead go for the maggie\headers route (est. $7400). You will be faster, have more horsepower and low end torque, and much more expandability. If you want more power down the road, add more boost by adding a different pulley ($70). Want more?? add some LS2 heads for $500. You want more power than that? then install a new cam ($900 cam kit and $500 install).
If i were you, i would take into account what i have told you here, and decide how far you want to go with the car, and how much you want to spend.
Step 1. figure out budget
Step 2. see what you can do in this budget. Is your budget high enough for a maggie and headers with a tune?? Take a look at how much a cam\headers\intake manifold will cost, taking into account the tune and install. If it is maybe $1500 more for the maggie and header option, and you can afford to spend $1500 more, then you should absolutely go with the maggie because as i said above, you can expand upon it and take the power much further in the future if you have the desire to spend more dough or want to go faster.
Best of luck. there is alot to think of, thats why you should not rush and u need to take you time, shop around, talk to some shops you respect and who will be honest with you and get their opinion. Dont just buy into what someone is trying to sell you, take time to think about every recommendation.
If you are planning on keeping this car for a while, then no, i would not recommend the pace setters unless you find a pair that is coated or something. They will look like **** in 4 years or so.
So with that in mind, i would recommend you hold out for a used set of Kooks or ARH long tube headers. Keep checking the "parts for sale" section of the board, as well as the "your state classifieds", and the "your region classifieds". You will come across a used set for your car, i would garauntee it. It may take a day, it may take 2 weeks... but you will find some.
If you dont want to wait, and dont want to worry about the things that come along with buying used (possibly getting scammed, getting ****, etc) go ahead and drop the coin to buy them new.
figure this for your budget (rough estimates)....
Headers and catted mid pipes: $1100
Cam and cam kit: $900
intake manifold: $800
Underdrive pulley: $190
Install and misc. parts needed: $2000 (rough guess)
Tune: $500
Total: $5400
Now something to think about.... if you are willing to spend more than that, and think to yourself "well, i can spend more than that, so let me drop $1500-2500 on heads".
$5400 + $2000 (heads) = $7400
with that in mind,hold on a sec. Are you handy with a wrench? Can you work on a car a bit, or is changing oil hard for you? Do you have a friend who can do some work on a car if you cant, or just to help you out? If you can work on the car yourself, or have a buddy who is good with that and is willing to help you... i ask you to consider this....
Maggie 1900 blower: $5800
headers and catted mids: $1100
tune: $500 (if you dont keeep the stock maggie tune, which i wouldnt)
Self installed maggie and headers: $0
If you had to have the headers installed but could do the maggie: $400 (guess)
Total estimate if you self install: $7400 (self installed maggie and headers)
Total estimate if you have the headers installed: $7800
So as you see from my estimates above, if you are willing to spend the money and go the heads\cam\headers\bolt ons route (est. $7400) , i would recommend you to instead go for the maggie\headers route (est. $7400). You will be faster, have more horsepower and low end torque, and much more expandability. If you want more power down the road, add more boost by adding a different pulley ($70). Want more?? add some LS2 heads for $500. You want more power than that? then install a new cam ($900 cam kit and $500 install).
If i were you, i would take into account what i have told you here, and decide how far you want to go with the car, and how much you want to spend.
Step 1. figure out budget
Step 2. see what you can do in this budget. Is your budget high enough for a maggie and headers with a tune?? Take a look at how much a cam\headers\intake manifold will cost, taking into account the tune and install. If it is maybe $1500 more for the maggie and header option, and you can afford to spend $1500 more, then you should absolutely go with the maggie because as i said above, you can expand upon it and take the power much further in the future if you have the desire to spend more dough or want to go faster.
Best of luck. there is alot to think of, thats why you should not rush and u need to take you time, shop around, talk to some shops you respect and who will be honest with you and get their opinion. Dont just buy into what someone is trying to sell you, take time to think about every recommendation.