oil cooler setups? lets see them.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
From: Nederland, TX
from my understanding ideal oil temp is around 200 degrees to help keep it clean as far as keeping the water cooked out, and at 200 it still does a good job of protecting.
fwiw, when i did my tranny cooler setup on my fbod, i used the 11x8x1.5 b&m stacked cooler. i live in SE texas so it gets hot and humid as hell here. i modified that radiator support area (the upper part where the air filter sucks from) with a crescent wrench by gently bending it back creating a little extra room, and a less obstructed path for incoming air to boot.. i pushed the cooler up in there with the fins running vertically (i have pics somewhere.. but im not real sure where as i didnt find em, sorry) anyhow, my tranny never even got over 150* with this cooler. (i had a yank PT3800 and Drag radials.. and i was all about smokin the fkk out of em) Due to this i added an oil cooler thermostat to keep the fluid temp up around 180. but it never even so much as crept the tiniest bit over 180. the cooler had a 28000 GVW rating i belive.
you could run a similar setup for your oil system. in the past, ive put an oil cooler on EVERY engine ive built, and on cars that ive purchased that didnt already have one. so far ive had great success and luck using them , and am really a believer in their use. the B&M's are badass coolers for the dollar. im a big fan of the quality and the performance. even the smaller coolers seem to do really well.
on my 331 in the pushrod notchback stang, i even dropped coolant temp by 10* by adding an oil cooler. the 96 cobra i had was also plagued by overheating issues from the factory, the oil cooler helped in that regard as well.
just my experience
fwiw, when i did my tranny cooler setup on my fbod, i used the 11x8x1.5 b&m stacked cooler. i live in SE texas so it gets hot and humid as hell here. i modified that radiator support area (the upper part where the air filter sucks from) with a crescent wrench by gently bending it back creating a little extra room, and a less obstructed path for incoming air to boot.. i pushed the cooler up in there with the fins running vertically (i have pics somewhere.. but im not real sure where as i didnt find em, sorry) anyhow, my tranny never even got over 150* with this cooler. (i had a yank PT3800 and Drag radials.. and i was all about smokin the fkk out of em) Due to this i added an oil cooler thermostat to keep the fluid temp up around 180. but it never even so much as crept the tiniest bit over 180. the cooler had a 28000 GVW rating i belive.
you could run a similar setup for your oil system. in the past, ive put an oil cooler on EVERY engine ive built, and on cars that ive purchased that didnt already have one. so far ive had great success and luck using them , and am really a believer in their use. the B&M's are badass coolers for the dollar. im a big fan of the quality and the performance. even the smaller coolers seem to do really well.
on my 331 in the pushrod notchback stang, i even dropped coolant temp by 10* by adding an oil cooler. the 96 cobra i had was also plagued by overheating issues from the factory, the oil cooler helped in that regard as well.
just my experience
Last edited by Coreyc619; Aug 18, 2009 at 06:18 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: in your closet
im going to assume it is. it has worked great thus far. on my old motor i was hard pressed to reach 200 degrees. when i swapped over to this one instantly it was up around 220-230. now in the heat its pressing 240. if i can get the temps around 190 cruising ill be happy. i was driving my buddys c6 zo6 the other day and after 35 miles it never went over 175.
I'm using 9.5 quarts of german castrol and I run 195 cruising at 2700 rpm @ 70 mph. Big *** cooler (29''x22''x2 no fans) and RD radiator though. Ran into a ZX10r last night, 7 runs from 50-130ish with my tuner in the car and coolant temps never got above 215 and oil temps didn't rise above 220
Not bad for repeated WOT runs
Not bad for repeated WOT runs 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,458
Likes: 129
From: Where the Navy tells me to go
i heard that oil coolers arent a smart idea, to me it sounds like a good idea, but i remember on the z28 forums that someone said that oil functions best when it is at a stable temperature instead of fluctuating...personally i think keeping the oil cool is a good idea, but they say its the way it breaks down...correct me if im wrong
http://xse.com/leres/ss/oilcooler.html
http://www.noid.org/oilcooler/
Also Lingenfelter makes an adaptor.
http://www.noid.org/oilcooler/
Also Lingenfelter makes an adaptor.
I would run a thermostat as well and you will need either a sandwich type plate or the LPE block adapter. Canton has a nice thermostat and LPE has a nice block adapter. You will need to make a few lines or have some made as well so you'll need to account for fitting too.
The LPE block allows for a temp gauge as well and has another accessory hole in it.
The LPE block allows for a temp gauge as well and has another accessory hole in it.
Lots of good stuff from Mocal and Setrab here.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
I use Setrab oil coolers on my off road buggy. We have also used filters from XRP, Peterson and System 1 with great success.
Here are some pictures of my set up. I'm still in the process of building the car up, but this should give you an idea.
Here are some pictures of my set up. I'm still in the process of building the car up, but this should give you an idea.
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From: in your closet
Mocal makes an adapter, too, and it incorporates the oil thermostat. It's more expensive than the LPE piece (~$150 vs ~$100), but by the time you add in the external oil thermostat and the extra fittings you'll need to plumb said thermostat into the lines I the Mocal part is a much smarter way to go IMO. You can see it on the last page here.
Mocal makes an adapter, too, and it incorporates the oil thermostat. It's more expensive than the LPE piece (~$150 vs ~$100), but by the time you add in the external oil thermostat and the extra fittings you'll need to plumb said thermostat into the lines I the Mocal part is a much smarter way to go IMO. You can see it on the last page here.
Lots of good stuff from Mocal and Setrab here.
Lots of good stuff from Mocal and Setrab here.
I wasn't even aware that Mocal part even existed.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,458
Likes: 129
From: Where the Navy tells me to go
I just stumbled across it by chance. I was looking for some other Mocal stuff on batinc's webpage and scrolled all the way to the bottom of that thermostat page. Voila!
I need to get my Kooks long tubes installed, then see what I've got in the way of room to install one of these adapters.
I need to get my Kooks long tubes installed, then see what I've got in the way of room to install one of these adapters.
