Melling 10296 pump What a pain!!
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From: the couve, washington
Melling 10296 pump What a pain!! I got this pump under different stories on the forums. Yes you have to clear the timng cover no you don't. I used a double roller chain so the spacers go in and the timing cover is miles from the block face.
After over an hour of screwing around, using grease to see where the cover hits, grinding and grinding nearly destroying my cover it just about fits. Does not fit by itself against the block but with the metal gasket and a little bolt torquing it will seal. The amount of grinding required was ridiculous it is b asically destroyed. Had to grind out around the back side of the front seal until the seal cast in stop is completely gone and then some. Grind where the bolts to the face of the oil pump hit the cover to holy hell. And in a spot I actually broke through the cover and had to JB WELD a tiny tiny spot.
I am sure this is a good pump but will never buy another one again if using a Double roller I will spend the extra and get the SLP I hear does not need this amount of work to install. I spend a good long time taking little by little as to just take what was needed but could not believe the amount needed to do the job.
Now I when I install the front main I have to be really careful. Also it will not install flush like it is supposed to. I will have install it just to where it is flush with the back side rather than installing it to it's cast in stop to fit flush on the outside.
My meager rambling is done now LOL
After over an hour of screwing around, using grease to see where the cover hits, grinding and grinding nearly destroying my cover it just about fits. Does not fit by itself against the block but with the metal gasket and a little bolt torquing it will seal. The amount of grinding required was ridiculous it is b asically destroyed. Had to grind out around the back side of the front seal until the seal cast in stop is completely gone and then some. Grind where the bolts to the face of the oil pump hit the cover to holy hell. And in a spot I actually broke through the cover and had to JB WELD a tiny tiny spot.
I am sure this is a good pump but will never buy another one again if using a Double roller I will spend the extra and get the SLP I hear does not need this amount of work to install. I spend a good long time taking little by little as to just take what was needed but could not believe the amount needed to do the job.
Now I when I install the front main I have to be really careful. Also it will not install flush like it is supposed to. I will have install it just to where it is flush with the back side rather than installing it to it's cast in stop to fit flush on the outside.
My meager rambling is done now LOL
Sorry for your troubles. Had I seen your thread I would have advised you about the need to clearance.
Anyone can buy them from us already clearanced for a double roller and with the normal pressure spring installed for $180 shipped.
Anyone can buy them from us already clearanced for a double roller and with the normal pressure spring installed for $180 shipped.
I got this pump under different stories on the forums. Yes you have to clear the timng cover no you don't. I used a double roller chain so the spacers go in and the timing cover is miles from the block face.
After over an hour of screwing around, using grease to see where the cover hits, grinding and grinding nearly destroying my cover it just about fits. Does not fit by itself against the block but with the metal gasket and a little bolt torquing it will seal. The amount of grinding required was ridiculous it is b asically destroyed. Had to grind out around the back side of the front seal until the seal cast in stop is completely gone and then some. Grind where the bolts to the face of the oil pump hit the cover to holy hell. And in a spot I actually broke through the cover and had to JB WELD a tiny tiny spot.
I am sure this is a good pump but will never buy another one again if using a Double roller I will spend the extra and get the SLP I hear does not need this amount of work to install. I spend a good long time taking little by little as to just take what was needed but could not believe the amount needed to do the job.
Now I when I install the front main I have to be really careful. Also it will not install flush like it is supposed to. I will have install it just to where it is flush with the back side rather than installing it to it's cast in stop to fit flush on the outside.
My meager rambling is done now LOL
After over an hour of screwing around, using grease to see where the cover hits, grinding and grinding nearly destroying my cover it just about fits. Does not fit by itself against the block but with the metal gasket and a little bolt torquing it will seal. The amount of grinding required was ridiculous it is b asically destroyed. Had to grind out around the back side of the front seal until the seal cast in stop is completely gone and then some. Grind where the bolts to the face of the oil pump hit the cover to holy hell. And in a spot I actually broke through the cover and had to JB WELD a tiny tiny spot.
I am sure this is a good pump but will never buy another one again if using a Double roller I will spend the extra and get the SLP I hear does not need this amount of work to install. I spend a good long time taking little by little as to just take what was needed but could not believe the amount needed to do the job.
Now I when I install the front main I have to be really careful. Also it will not install flush like it is supposed to. I will have install it just to where it is flush with the back side rather than installing it to it's cast in stop to fit flush on the outside.
My meager rambling is done now LOL
I run the slp version and slp double chain with no spacers and zero problems.
this pump has crazy high rpm oil pressure. over 5k it pegs my mechanical gage to the stop way past 100 psi
this pump has crazy high rpm oil pressure. over 5k it pegs my mechanical gage to the stop way past 100 psi
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From: the couve, washington
I used the trick flow timing chain I almost thought that the the spacers could have been a few thousands thinner.
Ya I wish I had read about the SLP or what ever on the other brand chains and spacers. However I did not see anyone saying that it was really that big a deal but like anything swapped each circumstance is different. It is a 98 LS1 engine. I did change the spring due to it being a stock CI and mild engine as others have talked about.
The thing is when I tighten down the cover I am still going to have to give it a few thousands of "torque" cover pull to tighten down to seal. Iwould say .006 thousands roughly.
I would have taken a pic of my cover and posted it but it would not serve a point and looks flat awful due to the emormous amount of "hacking" to it.
I have never seen such a thing before, so to speak I guess it would be great if I did not use a double roller or maybe a different brand chain too late now
Ya I wish I had read about the SLP or what ever on the other brand chains and spacers. However I did not see anyone saying that it was really that big a deal but like anything swapped each circumstance is different. It is a 98 LS1 engine. I did change the spring due to it being a stock CI and mild engine as others have talked about.
The thing is when I tighten down the cover I am still going to have to give it a few thousands of "torque" cover pull to tighten down to seal. Iwould say .006 thousands roughly.
I would have taken a pic of my cover and posted it but it would not serve a point and looks flat awful due to the emormous amount of "hacking" to it.
I have never seen such a thing before, so to speak I guess it would be great if I did not use a double roller or maybe a different brand chain too late now
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: the couve, washington
Ya I just posted after doing all this today, I did not really feel I had to post prior to ask about the amount Oh well Next time I will bet a matched set up from a vendor like you so I won't have to ruin my stuff for a simple upgrade.
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This was part of the reason I used the stock gearset with a single row C5R chain from Katech with my Melling pump. Obviously I had no clearance issues with a single chain. Glad you sorted it all out in the end.
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10 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 224
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From: Columbus Ohio
This sounds just like what I went through on my build earlier this year. I actually sent the Melling back and got the SLP and still had to grind just about as much even though the SLP is supposed to fit over a double roller (and it does without spacers just hits the front cover). I would recommend a single chain to anyone, I won't do that again.
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
I do both actually. We take about .060 off the front of the actual 10296 oil pump and also clearance the aluminum front cover too. They are all a little bit different and you do need to be careful but we've never broken through on any yet.
FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
You are right that you don't want any excessive clearancing on the pump as it will flex more if you take too much and that would be bad.
i just use the stock pump and double roller chain, thats why i have a new
Melling pump laying in the garage, lol-even with the double roller and stock pump sometimes the cover hits where the pump pickup tube connects, you just dont notice unless its on an engine stand
Melling pump laying in the garage, lol-even with the double roller and stock pump sometimes the cover hits where the pump pickup tube connects, you just dont notice unless its on an engine stand
Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: the couve, washington
it would be nice to see some pics I although each one is different. It would be impossible to see how much is really taken off but the usual spots of grinding would could be helpful for others to know where to start.
