Do I have a LS6 Block?
09-17-2009, 05:23 PM
#1
Do I have a LS6 Block? I recently purchased a 2002 LS1 out of a WS6 Trans am along with the T56.
This drivetrain will find its new home in my 82 Corvette in the next month. However I have hard that all 2002 engines were LS6 blocks but then I have also heard that they used both. I know there is a definet way of finding out with casting numbers but just curiouse if anyone knows for sure.
The main reason I ask is if it is a LS6 block I will keep the block when I am ready to make it a 383, the holes in between cylinders to eliminate back pressure and the fact that it would have better oil and colling properties makes me feel better about building on that block, however if I am wrong on any of this information let me know.
If this is a regular ls1 I will just be ordering a Short block LS6 that is stroked to 383.
Also I have heard that the cylinder sleeves are way to expensive to replace to bore it out? is this true? I would love to make the bore a little bigger so that using ls3 type heads would be more efficent on it. I do know a Iron block would be better for that purpose, but I want to keep the weight savings to may my car a better auto x machine.
This drivetrain will find its new home in my 82 Corvette in the next month. However I have hard that all 2002 engines were LS6 blocks but then I have also heard that they used both. I know there is a definet way of finding out with casting numbers but just curiouse if anyone knows for sure.
The main reason I ask is if it is a LS6 block I will keep the block when I am ready to make it a 383, the holes in between cylinders to eliminate back pressure and the fact that it would have better oil and colling properties makes me feel better about building on that block, however if I am wrong on any of this information let me know.
If this is a regular ls1 I will just be ordering a Short block LS6 that is stroked to 383.
Also I have heard that the cylinder sleeves are way to expensive to replace to bore it out? is this true? I would love to make the bore a little bigger so that using ls3 type heads would be more efficent on it. I do know a Iron block would be better for that purpose, but I want to keep the weight savings to may my car a better auto x machine.
09-17-2009, 07:22 PM
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
Posts: 6,801
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
See below and only a very few came with the LS6 block in 01-02
https://ls1tech.com/forums/1740886-post8.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/1740886-post8.html
09-17-2009, 07:41 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (70)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Los Angeles, California (818)
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
does it realy matter if you do?
they are weaker in strenght to the ls1s and if you ever decided to sleeve, it would be much weaker then an ls1
they are weaker in strenght to the ls1s and if you ever decided to sleeve, it would be much weaker then an ls1
09-17-2009, 08:10 PM
#4
thanks for the reply I was able to find out through some research and found out 25% of 2002s had them, I also got the ls6 casting number to compare to mine.
Well the reason is after doing some other reserch I found out that LS6 blocks are desighned for higher revs and that the aluminum casting on a LS6 is actually STRONGER to make up for the extra porting in the block. It also does not build up backpressure for higher RPMS.
from one engine expert I talked to the LS6 block is stronger than the LS1 in forced induction applications due to the stronger block material and no backpressure buildup under the pistions.
the LS1 block is better suited for big block NA applications however.
Pretty much my goal HP should not put to much stress on either block. when I rebuild I plan to go with a forged 383 build I dont really have to make the bore bigger for that application. I also plan to hit it with 100 to 150 shot of nitrouse.
I would like 400 at the wheels while not on the bottle, that is good enouph for me. and with my car only weighing 2900 pounds or so it will get me into the 10s with a 4.11 rear.
befor I do teh rebuild and add any more power though I need a new rearend. A vette 82 rear is aluminum and will not hold especally matched to a T-56 drivetrain destroyer.
Well the reason is after doing some other reserch I found out that LS6 blocks are desighned for higher revs and that the aluminum casting on a LS6 is actually STRONGER to make up for the extra porting in the block. It also does not build up backpressure for higher RPMS.
from one engine expert I talked to the LS6 block is stronger than the LS1 in forced induction applications due to the stronger block material and no backpressure buildup under the pistions.
the LS1 block is better suited for big block NA applications however.
Pretty much my goal HP should not put to much stress on either block. when I rebuild I plan to go with a forged 383 build I dont really have to make the bore bigger for that application. I also plan to hit it with 100 to 150 shot of nitrouse.
I would like 400 at the wheels while not on the bottle, that is good enouph for me. and with my car only weighing 2900 pounds or so it will get me into the 10s with a 4.11 rear.
befor I do teh rebuild and add any more power though I need a new rearend. A vette 82 rear is aluminum and will not hold especally matched to a T-56 drivetrain destroyer.
09-17-2009, 09:45 PM
#7
thanks for the reply I was able to find out through some research and found out 25% of 2002s had them, I also got the ls6 casting number to compare to mine.
Well the reason is after doing some other reserch I found out that LS6 blocks are desighned for higher revs and that the aluminum casting on a LS6 is actually STRONGER to make up for the extra porting in the block. It also does not build up backpressure for higher RPMS.
from one engine expert I talked to the LS6 block is stronger than the LS1 in forced induction applications due to the stronger block material and no backpressure buildup under the pistions.
the LS1 block is better suited for big block NA applications however.
Pretty much my goal HP should not put to much stress on either block. when I rebuild I plan to go with a forged 383 build I dont really have to make the bore bigger for that application. I also plan to hit it with 100 to 150 shot of nitrouse.
I would like 400 at the wheels while not on the bottle, that is good enouph for me. and with my car only weighing 2900 pounds or so it will get me into the 10s with a 4.11 rear.
befor I do teh rebuild and add any more power though I need a new rearend. A vette 82 rear is aluminum and will not hold especally matched to a T-56 drivetrain destroyer.
Well the reason is after doing some other reserch I found out that LS6 blocks are desighned for higher revs and that the aluminum casting on a LS6 is actually STRONGER to make up for the extra porting in the block. It also does not build up backpressure for higher RPMS.
from one engine expert I talked to the LS6 block is stronger than the LS1 in forced induction applications due to the stronger block material and no backpressure buildup under the pistions.
the LS1 block is better suited for big block NA applications however.
Pretty much my goal HP should not put to much stress on either block. when I rebuild I plan to go with a forged 383 build I dont really have to make the bore bigger for that application. I also plan to hit it with 100 to 150 shot of nitrouse.
I would like 400 at the wheels while not on the bottle, that is good enouph for me. and with my car only weighing 2900 pounds or so it will get me into the 10s with a 4.11 rear.
befor I do teh rebuild and add any more power though I need a new rearend. A vette 82 rear is aluminum and will not hold especally matched to a T-56 drivetrain destroyer.
Secondly, you mention that if your block isn't an LS6, you'll just go buy an LS6 short block. Why a short block? If you want a 383 stroker, then a short block is a complete waste of money, as you'll need to replace the crank, pistons, and rods. Why not just buy a bare block and build from there? In fact, if buying a block, then it makes sense to get the L92/LS3 block.
Trending Topics
09-17-2009, 09:51 PM
#8
Just about any stock LS clutch will only hold the torq of the engine it is on. Even a LS7 clutch is only good for the 500 tq that it was bolted to.
funny thing is I thought T-56s are only rated for 300FPTQ but yet I see people running 6 to 7 hundred hp and tq on them without breaking.
I figure after clutch and rear end upgrades the T-56 would be the weakpoint. not sure on this though.
I have only had my Vette for 1 year and I have already put a complet brand new suspension from A arms down to sway bars and shocks, Best part is the springs are fiberglass and have 4 different adjustments for stiffness. I lost alot of weight by doing that. Now I am doing the LS swap with T-56. should put me in 12s with the light weight.
I have been deployed for most of the time I have owned the car, so I am very exited to hop in it with the LS. Also will be customizing my full stainless steel sidepipes to work with the LS heads
09-17-2009, 10:04 PM
#9
Dude, this post is a rambling, messy contradiction. First, you mention that you want a strong block to handle high horsepower applications. But, you mention 400 horse at the wheel. Sorry, but that's quite average for a LS1/6 build. In fact, if you do go with a 383 stroker set-up, 400 horse is quite low. Most heads/cam LS1/6 motors are at 400+. Not to mention your use of nitrous. Also, you refer to the LS6 block being stronger in forced induction applications. So, are you considering FI? Again, if the goal is 400, then forced induction is overkill. The standard LS1 block will be all you need to build 400 horse. LS6 is nice, but is not going to be a noticeable difference.
Secondly, you mention that if your block isn't an LS6, you'll just go buy an LS6 short block. Why a short block? If you want a 383 stroker, then a short block is a complete waste of money, as you'll need to replace the crank, pistons, and rods. Why not just buy a bare block and build from there? In fact, if buying a block, then it makes sense to get the L92/LS3 block.
Secondly, you mention that if your block isn't an LS6, you'll just go buy an LS6 short block. Why a short block? If you want a 383 stroker, then a short block is a complete waste of money, as you'll need to replace the crank, pistons, and rods. Why not just buy a bare block and build from there? In fact, if buying a block, then it makes sense to get the L92/LS3 block.
400 is my LOW GOAL FOR NOW I would perfer 500 to 600 at the wheels maybe more. budget and rear end cost and durability will determine. C3 IRS rear ends even the IRON BUILT units are only good for so much HP. The article I read included Nitrouse in the FORCED INDUCTION catagory. The LS6 Block was machined to be more durable than a LS1, However a LS1 does have MORE MATERIAL between the cylinder walls. I plan to either rebuild mine to a 383 or order a 383 SMALLBLOCK not a regular small black.
You seem like you are trying to SCOLD me with your post, I know HP is easier to make on LS engines than SBCs but I dont have the normal type of car all you other LS guys in here have, I have alot more to figure into the equation.
granted 400 to 450 engine HP could net me quicker E.T.s than most F bodys here with 100 more HP my IRS is a contributing factor and it will not hold more power than my 1s basis goal.
It will always be a work in progress and a goal to reach a HIGHER HP goals in the future
