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$400 for new tune or replace MS3 for daily driver?

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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Default $400 for new tune or replace MS3 for daily driver?

**See post #22 for update**

Car runs good for track days (about once a month), but I daily drive it also. Car just will not idle after starting. It runs fine after driving for about 5 mins. But if stop and get gas, it won't even hold an idle when restarting. It died 4 times today before I could get out of parking lot. Just too frustrating. Car makes good power at the track and runs fine after about 5 mins of driving. I have had it back to tuner 3 times this past year dealing with this. Is the tuning window so small with this cam that it is just hit and miss? Is this just the wrong cam for motor (specs in sig) or should I try another tuner first? Can't live with this. Fortunately, tracking teaches you how to heal/toe drive. Thoughts?

Last edited by WADDISME; Jan 8, 2010 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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That cam is in no way too big, I have an LQ9 (stock cubes) with a XER281HR (232/234 113+3) and it runs just fine on a very poor tune. It also looks like you are an M6 guy?

I have an auto and it idles fine in gear. Something is wrong with the car for certain. With those kinda of cubes and a medium sized cam it should idle well. I am in the same boat, I need a re-tune something fierce! Don't give up on her yet though, just get a tune asap. Good luck!
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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Has someone already tuned it? The problem is not in the cam, it is in the tune. I would take it back to the tuner and get them to work the bugs out of it for you. The MS3 cam is a nice cam, wish I still had mine.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 10:38 PM
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find a better tune.My cam is not much smaller and its an A4 and mine fires up in 10 deg winter temps first time everytime
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 07:24 AM
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I have had it back to the tuner 3 times in the past year for tweaking. He is one of the best tuners around. I guess what I am basically asking - is it the cam or the tuner? Either way I am out $400 to change.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 08:03 AM
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Buy your own software and tune it yourself.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveX
Buy your own software and tune it yourself.
Thought has crossed my mind, just too long of a learning curve.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 08:27 AM
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It is your tuner for sure man. I know a few guys who run MS3/MS4 on DD cars no problem.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by WADDISME
I have had it back to the tuner 3 times in the past year for tweaking. He is one of the best tuners around. I guess what I am basically asking - is it the cam or the tuner? Either way I am out $400 to change.
not normally one to knock someone,but like I said my cam is just a hair smaller and my car is an A4,and it starts up everytime..Even in the middle of winter,and it wont die
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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First I would go over the car with a fine comb to make sure there are no vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines etc....
A tuner usualy will not address those issues.

Your cam is in now way wrong for the motor and should operate smoothly. From your description (that the car runs fine at track and after warming), it seems (assuming no mechanical issues) that your tuner is not so good after all. WOT tuning is the easiest of all, where a pro tuner shines is at idle, off idle and part throttle cruising. Seems like yours is not able to do that properly.

IMO, even if you had to drive 200 miles to do it, I would widen my search for a good tuner.
Where are you located?
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 09:00 AM
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Good point Pred! I kind of just assumed there was no mechanical issues. Good call man.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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Sounds like he does not have the open loop tables and idle timing tables set up right for your car to me. Injector tables and other things in the tune can cause this as well. Its the tune, buy hp tuners and learn to do it yourself. I am sure you plan on changing other things on the car latter that will require more tuning. Buy it, learn it, we will help get you up to speed.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:27 AM
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Sounds like you need some cold start/hot start adjustments.

Where are you located?
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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I have a much smaller cam and mine won't idle for **** with the A/C on. I would either find a better tuner or get HP tuners and do it yourself. I even plan on buying a welder so I can just fix my exhaust myself since any time I go to an exhaust shop for anything they won't touch my y-pipe to do some simple adjustments.

I plan on getting HP tuners and learning it myself. I am a little worried about screwing it up but I have found a lot of reference material on it.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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I live in Taylorsville, NC, but get the car tuned in Mooresville, NC which is about an hour away. There are a couple of good tuners there. I find it hard to believe it is mech as the car runs stout at the track, better than ever. It breaks 150+ easily on the backstretch at VIR. I did just reinstall my FAST, so I will double check the torque in case it has loosened some. They have been know to do that. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by matt1289
I have a much smaller cam and mine won't idle for **** with the A/C on. I would either find a better tuner or get HP tuners and do it yourself. I even plan on buying a welder so I can just fix my exhaust myself since any time I go to an exhaust shop for anything they won't touch my y-pipe to do some simple adjustments.

I plan on getting HP tuners and learning it myself. I am a little worried about screwing it up but I have found a lot of reference material on it.

Maybe that is the answer. I am off to do some research. Thanks.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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I would just get a different tunner. It's not worth downgrading to a smaller cam. You're still gonna have to tune it again.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:40 PM
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Call Alvin at Tick. He is close by....
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by matt1289
I have a much smaller cam and mine won't idle for **** with the A/C on. I would either find a better tuner or get HP tuners and do it yourself. I even plan on buying a welder so I can just fix my exhaust myself since any time I go to an exhaust shop for anything they won't touch my y-pipe to do some simple adjustments.

I plan on getting HP tuners and learning it myself. I am a little worried about screwing it up but I have found a lot of reference material on it.

Most cars with aftermarket cams dont do as well unless their tuned for it. Mine does the same but I didnt get it tuned for it. Putting the heat on leans the cars out. It just changes what the O2's see. To the OP.....everyone said it...tune man...its all in the tune...I ran a custom cam inbetween a ms3/ms4 and once it was tuned it wasnt a problem....get ahold of frost or a good well known tuner near you and get the bugs worked out!!
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by WADDISME
I live in Taylorsville, NC, but get the car tuned in Mooresville, NC which is about an hour away. There are a couple of good tuners there. I find it hard to believe it is mech as the car runs stout at the track, better than ever. It breaks 150+ easily on the backstretch at VIR. I did just reinstall my FAST, so I will double check the torque in case it has loosened some. They have been know to do that. Thanks for the help guys.
Take it to RPM in Garner. I've had good experiences with them and have heard very good things about their work. Not sure how far away Taylorsville is but shouldn't be too far of a drive. They do TONS of work on f-bodies, corvettes, and gto's. They even tuned my friends SRT-4. I've only had them dyno my car, but for any mods that I can't put on myself I will be taking it to them. I believe they charge $300 for a dyno tune.

http://rpmmotorsportsnc.com/display/splash.html
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