Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

I have a blem/ overstock block and I just pulled the motor from having oil pressure problems. The motor had ~3000 miles on it and I found some interesting things. One of the main bearings was trashed. It was all copper and another was 1/2 copper. I brought it to the machine shop and he told me that the only way that ONE cap side bearing would get trashed is from a VERY messed up line bore/ hone. The crank was turned 10/ 10 and mic'ed by a second shop to make sure it was right so, it wasnt something with the crank.

Ill post some pics up here

Word of warning, even though it may say "New, never run, ready to run" ALWAYS have everything checked!

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Heres the bearing and the crank journal close up:

Mike K.

damn dude that sucks, I'll keep in mind when building my new block. Sorry bout you luck

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

I have seen brand new blocks from GM have some claerance issuses. You need to have Everything checked and mic`ed first. It is not just drop in your peices and go racing.

Nate

ABNRNGR (Aka Dean)

iTrader: (1)

you should always align hone a block, new or used

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

but when they are "fully machined and ready to run" you shouldnt have to. Thats my point.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I totally agree.

Jay 95WS6

maybe that's one reason it wasn't sold as new

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

So do I but you ALWAYS check it and check it twice. Don't count on anyone else except yourself.

Just like you country boy, I learned the hard way.

Hope your up and running asap!

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

No doubt there, either , never assume, you know how that saying goes

John B

iTrader: (10)

The crank was turned 10/ 10 and mic'ed by a second shop to make sure it was right so, it wasnt something with the crank[QUOTE]What if this was ground offset....it would still be 0.010" under but could cause your problem.....not sure if you're pointing the right fingers here without all of the facts to ensure that your crank isn't bad.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Carl, what does this comment mean from this thread?

http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/sh...hreadid=123078

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Did you get that from Valvegod Carl? When I called Valvegod over a year ago about a shortblock for a buddy of mine I was told to take the shortblock to a machine shop first b4 installing internals. NM did that with my old motor and that's how I ended up with a 348ci.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

John are you moving to Tampa The streetracing scene is brutal.

valvegod

iTrader: (6)

Carl, If you had problems with the block, why haven't I hear from you? As I mentioned in the other post, I back what I sell. What name (first and last) was the block purchased under and when? Ready to assemble, does not mean you Don't have to clean it first. The block did not arrive in a sealed plastic bag, so that should be a heads up. The damage you are showing can be caused from a few problems, one of which is bad main bores. bearing tolerances, straightness of crank, Low oil pressure do to bad oil pump, damaged o ring on sump pickup, block oil pickup (PICS you have posted on Tampa Bay Site which appears to be fabric or scotch brite from sump pickup). Did you clean the block before assembling? Missing oil galley block off in the front or rear will also reduce oil pressure and cause premature wear.

I am one of the fairest guys you will deal with in business, and have built my business on great service with not only you the comsumer, but all the shops that also purchase from me.

Shaun (valvegod@aol.com)
248.276.0483

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I purchase all my stock stuff from Shaun..

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Carl...it doesnt seem fair to blame Valvegod for this. New, used reparied...whatever. It should always be checked at a qualified machine shop before you assemble a high performance motor. To be honest..this is why I dont do bottom ends. You should have just paid the extra $900-1000 to let a good shop do a bottom end for you. I know you wanted to save some cash...but now your paying twice.

I have bought lots of things from Valvegod and its always been great customer service.

I once bought a used 6.0 iron block from him...it arrived damaged due to shipping. I called him back and he took care of everything. Sent the shipping company out to inspect the block. They took that one since there was a claim on it. In the mean time he had another 6.0 block already on the way. He basically took care of everything. Did all the legwork.

Since then I always call him first to see if he has what I need. I just ordered some truck coils (the hotter ones) and a few other things from him a few days ago.

valvegod

iTrader: (6)

Carl, a couple other questions. What fasteners are you using for your main caps, and heads? Also who assembled the engine, and what is their experience level? When a block is line bored, or honed, it is almost impossible to get one tighter or looser than the other, unless it is at the end (1 or 5). really the only way to get a tight or loose main, is to have the wrong cap on the wrong main. SEND THE BLOCK BACK for EVALUATION, or depending where you are, I can have one of the engine builders I supply evaluate it. If the block is out, I will cover it.

Try communicating first when you have an issue, before you start slamming people on the boards. If you put a company out of business because of your statements, you are really screwing yourself. A company out of business can't supply you with help or cover damages you may have.

Shaun (valvegod@aol.com)
SMC Performance, Inc.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

The first line was joking around about the main bearing. It had a laughing smilies on the end that didnt show up.

The part about the rods is I bought one set of eagle rods, installed them and ran the motor. The big end is the same as a SBC rod, but these were LS1 specific replacement rods (found about the big end being SBC when I pulled them Friday night). LS1 rods are a centered rod and SBCs are offset. I can snap some pics when I get the new rods back from the machine shop. I thought I had the rods in wrong because I put all the chamfers in facing the same direction as thats the same way the stock rods come out (remember, stockers are centered.. also ARE said this is how they do it in a recent thread). I then called some sponsers after the motor started having oil pressure problems (nothing bad, but not right) and they told me since the stock crank doesnt have a fillet or a VERY small fillet that it shouldnt matter as long as nothing was binding up... and nothing was. If you look at a stock bearing, it doesnt have chamfers either so that was another sign of not having fillets..... Now to Friday night, I pulled the motor and compared the old rods with my new rods and the big ends are totally different, but the both sets have the SAME part numbers on the box and stamped on the rods.

Did that help?

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Since Im going to reply to Shaun, yes