adj timing set/crank gear question
adj timing set/crank gear question hey guys got a few questions that i need to know asap please..im going to be doing a head/cam swap this weekend and going to be installing a slp double adjustable timing set and want the crank gear swapped aswell.i always just left my gear on and only installed the ls2 chain so this is a first.
how do i remove the gear and install it? do i need a special tool to remove and replace or can i just use the same 3jaw puller for the balancer to remove it and just mallet it back on? and no advancing or retarding so just use the basic timing dot and thats it? also read i NEED to degree it with a adj set do i really need to?
also whats so diff about installing the adj timing set? or did i ask that in the first question..lol thanks guys
john
how do i remove the gear and install it? do i need a special tool to remove and replace or can i just use the same 3jaw puller for the balancer to remove it and just mallet it back on? and no advancing or retarding so just use the basic timing dot and thats it? also read i NEED to degree it with a adj set do i really need to?
also whats so diff about installing the adj timing set? or did i ask that in the first question..lol thanks guys
john
Proper tool to remove is about $10. To install you press on with the same tool used to press on the pulley. I wouldn't hit it as the gear is typically hardened and if you bend it you could have chain issues later. Do you have all the tools to degree the cam? If not, then set to zero and go dot to dot. The advantage of the adjustable set is the ability to degree the cam. Here is the removal tool:
perfect.. i just got the balancer install tool off another user that he makes..thatll work to install it? no i dont got a degree wheel and never used one or had a issue so just the dot to dot and on basic 0 and be good? where you get that remover thats nice for $10 ill buy it now!!
I had never heard of anything by Kent Moore costing just $10, but now I can see why. I'd like to know how that thing can be used as a pusher as well as a puller. Some people use heat. You can also buck the old sprocket up against the new one. You tap it on with a wooden mallet or a piece of wood and a 3lb maul. By the description you are lead to believe that if you put the sprocket in the over for 30 minuters the sprocket will almost jump from the oven onto the crankshaft all by itself. I haven't been brave enough to use the heat method as yet, but there is still time let for experimentation. You can also use a small 2 or 3 leg puller. I have a bearing splitter I think might work to get it started. That would provide enough purchase to get a small puller on there without having the legs pop off. This calls for a mini Posi-Lock. A mini Posi-Lock would make a great stocking stuffer.
You can't push with it, but you can make a tool that will. Also, the Kent Moore installation tool for the crank sprocket is another $15 from the same guy. I bought both and saved on shipping. The crank sprocket installation tool is the same that is used for pulley installation but you still need the threaded rod. Here is that tool. Link
Last edited by vettenuts; Dec 18, 2009 at 05:56 AM.
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I used the 3 jaw crank puller to get it off (took me about 10 tries cause it kept slipping off), and a mallet to get it back on...be careful and go slow at first so you don't put it on crooked. WD-40 works for installation and removal...let it soak for about 30 minutes before trying to take it off.
The guy that's selling the Kent Moore crank sprocket puller also has a GM Breakout box for under $60. That's a bargain for a new GM breakout box if you do troubleshooting on GM products. I'l going to grab one of those. For the guys using a little 3 leg pullers to remove the sprocket and are having trouble with the legs popping off when you first start to clamp down on the puller rod. You might try a bearing splitter to move the sprocket just enough to give you the room you need to get the puller jaws to fully clamp. I have one that is perfect for this job.
408 camaro,
Just for information purposes, I went through cam degreeing because of a bad cam that was causing major power loss issues. This was a couple of months ago. There are 2 or more threads where the board was helping me to diagnose the problem. The cam turned out to be a bad grind & was replaced by another. I mention this only to note what can be important about degreeing the cam. Even my "new" cam that replaced the bad one had an intake center line (ICL) that was off by 3*. Only way to correct it was with the adjustable timing set. Have since read several threads where guys who do this kind of stuff all the time claim that it's not uncommon for mass produced cams to have ICL's out by more than 2*.
Thought you might want to know this. Doesn't mean that you should or shouldn't check the cam (degree the cam). Just be aware that the ICL can be different than specified.
Just for information purposes, I went through cam degreeing because of a bad cam that was causing major power loss issues. This was a couple of months ago. There are 2 or more threads where the board was helping me to diagnose the problem. The cam turned out to be a bad grind & was replaced by another. I mention this only to note what can be important about degreeing the cam. Even my "new" cam that replaced the bad one had an intake center line (ICL) that was off by 3*. Only way to correct it was with the adjustable timing set. Have since read several threads where guys who do this kind of stuff all the time claim that it's not uncommon for mass produced cams to have ICL's out by more than 2*.
Thought you might want to know this. Doesn't mean that you should or shouldn't check the cam (degree the cam). Just be aware that the ICL can be different than specified.
I appreciate your post and explaining your experience. That sucks that it happened. What company or brand cam you use that it happened? Looks like they are getting a lil sloppy on the making of these now
In reference to the cam that had the ICL out by 3*, again I don't think that it's correct for me to point out the manufacturer, as the issue can be found in most of the mass produced cams, regardless of manufacturer, unless you're paying for a custom grind. A special order custom ground cam should not & most likely will not have this issue.
I noted the experience & what has been noted about the ICL issue to explain why so many people recommend degreeing the cam, not to suggest that one manufacturer is better or worse than another.
I understood that it was asked just for reference. Didn't post the name because it's not limited to just one company & it's more of a manufacturing tolerance thing (too broad of a tolerance) than anything else.
