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ls1 to a 383

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Old 12-19-2009, 11:56 AM
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Default ls1 to a 383

How would I go about turning my ls1 into a 383 stroker? Can I use the same block, and if so, what do I need to do to it? I want it bulletproof, no shortcuts.
Old 12-19-2009, 02:05 PM
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I got the scoggin dickey 383 all forged kit lo tension rings. Block honed to 3.905 clearanced and arp studs on top and bottom.
Old 12-20-2009, 01:18 PM
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yeah just check out the sponsors on the right... scoggin dickey has some great things at low prices. i would also take a look at tsp.

you would need to look at a rotating assembly, clean up your block, and then might as well do a h/c set up b/c it wont be anyhting to special with stock parts on a 383 imo
Old 12-20-2009, 03:56 PM
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I am in the process of doing this right now, My block is fine I am getting all the parts together, You can look for used parts on this site or ebay but be informed they will need to be checked out, possibly machined, I scored a set of Lunati probillet forged I beams off ebay (1300 dollars new) for 400 dollars, took them to the machine shop they were perfect, Good deal. I bought a callies racemaster stroker crank off ebay (over 1500 dollars new) I paid 500 checked out perfect, I will go with brand new pistons but All the parts have to be balanced. If you want to go with new matched kit I would say Right now that Texas Speed has the best deals I have seen, complete rotating kits, with all kinds of options, Eagle parts will probably be the most budget friendly parts, callies are better, You can get a complete lunati kit but its about twice what any other kit costs. Texas speed also sells complete shortblocks. If you do it yourself with a rotating kit You will get to reuse your stock block, will have to have it cleaned and honed, new cam bearings, You will also probably have to clearance the bottom of the cylinder walls a little bit, due to the increased stroke, you may have a rod bolt come into contact.
Here is a good read that will give you a great deal of knowledge of what is involved. Hope this helps you some

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html
Old 12-21-2009, 03:15 AM
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I just fired my 383 build up for the first time last month. I got used lunati pistons and eagle h rods for 500 used, and the eagle stroker crank for 800 new. New main seals, rings, balence, and labor 1300. All together 2600 dollar shortblock. It might be just as affordable to buy a new shortblock 383.
Old 12-21-2009, 11:14 AM
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Yes you can use the same block. You will need to have it machined. You will need a rotating assembly and you will need someone to put it all together for you as well if you want it to be bullet proof. Do you have a local builder with LSx experience that you trust?
Old 12-21-2009, 12:10 PM
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There's a shop that does really good work. I knew I'd have to get the whole bottom end forged, and I've heard that hbeam rods were the way to go, I just didn't know how to prep the block for it. Custom top end is coming from Cali, I have a conference with the guy wednesday. I don't know the finals yet, but I think i'm getting a magnacharger to top it all off. I told them I wanted to dyno 600hp.
Old 12-21-2009, 06:34 PM
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i would contact texas speed and or scoggin dickey and get one of there forged shortblocks. proly might even save u a dollar. here in Ca we dont have many trusted machine shops for lsx motors. might even save u time since tsp has a lot of shortblocks in stock...just my .02
Old 12-22-2009, 09:05 AM
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If you are going to keep your short block you have many variables to think of how many miley are on the block ? do you wan 383( yes i see 383 in the post but alought of ppl dont know if u replace the liners u can go upwards of 400+ ci) or 400 + cubic inches ? are you going no adders ? there are so many options when u answer there its easier to help u with my option

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Old 12-22-2009, 11:48 AM
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Well your looking at a 383 or 347. The 347 will be less by the cost of the crank plus the cost to magnaflux and polish your crank (150-250 in the states).

We can build it for you if your not comfortable with anyone up there, we've got a nice 427 long block going to Saskatchewan shortly and believe it or not shipping to him is only $300, cost me more to ship to Oregon

You want to do it right though, the s/c will want a solid base to boost.
Old 12-22-2009, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Carolina_Camaro_Guy
There's a shop that does really good work. I knew I'd have to get the whole bottom end forged, and I've heard that hbeam rods were the way to go, I just didn't know how to prep the block for it. Custom top end is coming from Cali, I have a conference with the guy wednesday. I don't know the finals yet, but I think i'm getting a magnacharger to top it all off. I told them I wanted to dyno 600hp.
First off, H-Beam rods are fine to use, but there's nothing wrong with a quality I-Beam, either. In fact, the I-Beam is usually lighter, less-expensive, and just as strong as the H-Beam rod for street use.

Secondly, before honing the cylinders and setting the rings, it's a good idea to know for sure if you plan to supercharge or add nitrous. The additional heat generated from either application will cause the pistons/rings to expand more than they would in a naturally aspirated engine. Therefore, piston and ring clearance is critical if you are supercharging or using nitrous. Also, you mentioned using a magnacharger. What is the vehicle and model year are you putting this into? A magnacharger will be difficult to fit in a 4th Gen Camaro/Firebird. Just make sure it all fits before you buy.

Lastly, a search will answer most of your questions. Try it out!



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