Coolant for a newly Darton MID Sleeved block
12-19-2003, 03:24 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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Coolant for a newly Darton MID Sleeved block Hi Guys,
jus wondering. My newly built 428 with Darton MID sleeves is ready and has been run in on an engine dyno. just requires the cold start and driveability tune done to be just right.
I intend to do another 500km of varied throttle driving to ensure good ring seal.
What I am curious about is th euse of Evans Coolant and water pump for my engine. for the next 500km, it is just 'straight up' water in the system (as advised by my engine builder). I had read that Evans coolant and water pump are a good thing for these MID sleeved engines and wish to use it as soon as the engine is nicely run in.
What are the prices of these items and why does it have to be Evans as opposed to the GM 'red' coolant?
jus wondering. My newly built 428 with Darton MID sleeves is ready and has been run in on an engine dyno. just requires the cold start and driveability tune done to be just right.
I intend to do another 500km of varied throttle driving to ensure good ring seal.
What I am curious about is th euse of Evans Coolant and water pump for my engine. for the next 500km, it is just 'straight up' water in the system (as advised by my engine builder). I had read that Evans coolant and water pump are a good thing for these MID sleeved engines and wish to use it as soon as the engine is nicely run in.
What are the prices of these items and why does it have to be Evans as opposed to the GM 'red' coolant?
Last edited by 8POTS; 12-19-2003 at 03:34 AM.
12-19-2003, 09:50 AM
#4
Also, the Evan's coolant is designed for wet sleeve motors to prevent cavitation. If you get cavitation you'll form a hot spot on the cylinder wall and could thus burn through.
I wouldn't run straightwater as water, if non-deionized, has an electrolytic ability and could increases your chances of cavitation.
I wouldn't run straightwater as water, if non-deionized, has an electrolytic ability and could increases your chances of cavitation.
12-19-2003, 10:58 AM
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My wet sleeve was finished up last week. I will be running standard dexcool in the winter months, then flush out the whole system and replenish it with Evans in the spring. I am not very worried about the "overheating" issues here in NY in the winter. 
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12-19-2003, 12:36 PM
#8
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They are rec. the Evans new Race coolant for these sleeves if the car is not to see temps as low as -10F. And the water pump is really good to have for these motors also. It is opened up and has a smaller pulley for a lot more flow and more even flow. I have ordered one for a motor. It cost $399 with a core of your old pump.
Nate
Nate
12-19-2003, 05:48 PM
#9
Staging Lane
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Cool...I'll try and get a hold of both soon. The water I will be using is de-mineralised and should be fine for 500km.
My engine builder has lined up both the pump and the coolant to use so fingers crossed it arrives. Otherwise it's GM Dexcool until that time.
My engine builder has lined up both the pump and the coolant to use so fingers crossed it arrives. Otherwise it's GM Dexcool until that time.
12-19-2003, 07:54 PM
#11
Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
Instead of the "Evans pump".....couldn't a person run the Meziere electric pump? I would think it would cool even better (always at its optimum RPM) and by removing the load of the pump from the engine, you would make even less heat....
I should have some pump flow numbers from Evans after the first of the year. I sent Evans a Meziere street pump that Scott Turvey loaned me. It flowed just about half what a stock GM pump flows. This was not unexpected since it takes roughly three horsepower to turn a mechanical water pump. Imagine how large a three horsepower twelve volt motor would need to be.
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
12-19-2003, 07:56 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Steve - Race Eng
I sent Evans a Meziere street pump that Scott Turvey loaned me. It flowed just about half what a stock GM pump flows. This was not unexpected since it takes roughly three horsepower to turn a mechanical water pump. Imagine how large a three horsepower twelve volt motor would need to be.
really?
How are people getting reduced coolant temps with a "worse" pump then?
12-19-2003, 10:34 PM
#13
Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
really? How are people getting reduced coolant temps with a "worse" pump then?
How are people getting reduced coolant temps with a "worse" pump then?At low engine speeds like when cruising in OD at 1,800 - 2,000 rpm or around town, the electric pump supplies more than ample flow to cool the engine. I do not have flow figures at this rpm for a mechanical (engine driven) pump but my best guess would be the electric pump will beat out the mechanical in this rpm range. Keep in mind that it takes only about seventy horsepower or so to cruise down the freeway at a steady speed.
As engine speed increases however, so does the efficiency of the engine driven pump. At five thousand rpm even the stock GM pump will flow more than double the electric pump.
A good rule of thumb is one gallon per minute is required per ten horsepower. Therefore a five hundred horsepower engine will require roughly fifty gallons per minute of coolant flow. This if you are extracting five hundred horsepower for any length of time. This is rarely the case for a pure street driven car.
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
12-19-2003, 10:40 PM
#14
got it 
.....so then how does a person come up with an adequate flow while still keeping the parasitic loss down?
also, Steve.....did you get a chance to read my question I posted about turn around time on a block and about head gaskets (in the post I did about milling the deck durring install)?
.....so then how does a person come up with an adequate flow while still keeping the parasitic loss down?also, Steve.....did you get a chance to read my question I posted about turn around time on a block and about head gaskets (in the post I did about milling the deck durring install)?
12-19-2003, 10:49 PM
#15
Evans also states that the NPG+ coolants have reduced drag on the pump impeller. It's also known that these coolants will find a leak if there is one. So replace hoses and check your coolant systems. Replace cheap hose clamps with good hose clamps.
12-19-2003, 11:52 PM
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Staging Lane
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well....we've put 'dex' in for now until I can get some Evans.
Anyway....wound up not picking up the car...dramas galore which I won't discuss here.
Anyway....wound up not picking up the car...dramas galore which I won't discuss here.
12-20-2003, 12:09 AM
#17
Originally Posted by 8POTS
well....we've put 'dex' in for now until I can get some Evans.
Anyway....wound up not picking up the car...dramas galore which I won't discuss here.
Anyway....wound up not picking up the car...dramas galore which I won't discuss here.
).
12-20-2003, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 8POTS
Anyway....wound up not picking up the car...dramas galore which I won't discuss here.
Last edited by Bear; 12-20-2003 at 07:20 PM.
12-20-2003, 07:42 PM
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13 months ago, MMS and I decided to go with the Darton wet sleeved block. We then waited and waited. They just fired it up last week... But man, did it sound SWEET!