new bare iron block, what machine work required?
#1
new bare iron block, what machine work required?
If I order a new, 6.0L bare iron block, what machine work would be required prior to installing bearings, pistons, etc.? If I am not mistaken, they aren't even a 4.000" bore yet when purchased bare, but I might be wrong.
#2
9 Second Club
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blockwork
Probably figure a line hone (if using ARP's, maybe even if you are not), bore, torque plate hone, and a sqaure deck. Might as well figure a set of cam bearings in there as well, as they will have to be removed for the work.
I would not run the 4.00" bore they come at for a performance oriented build. You will need to go a minimum 4.005"
#12
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Because the difference in power between 364 and 370 cubes, or 402 and 408 cubes is minimal, and you are reducing the number of subsequent rebuilds. If you have the means, then go ahead and bore it out, but most people want more than one potential rebuild left out of a new engine.
#15
Banned
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Because the difference in power between 364 and 370 cubes, or 402 and 408 cubes is minimal, and you are reducing the number of subsequent rebuilds. If you have the means, then go ahead and bore it out, but most people want more than one potential rebuild left out of a new engine.
#17
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I will say, the consequences are farily low on an oem block that can be had relatively cheap. Does it still make sense to bore an expensive aftermarket piece out to the max bore for the first build?
Apologies to the original poster if I have strayed too far
#19
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Is there really that much difference in 12 cubic inches, with all other parts (heads, cam, and within reason compression) being the same? For a stout street engine, the compression differences between a 402, 408 and 414 would be minimal, based on available octane. Lets say the 402 puts 1.25hp per ci to the rear wheels, or 502.5 rwhp. A comparable 408 makes 7.5 more at 510; a 414 would make 15 more at 517.5 rwhp. Is it not a good idea to leave room for the block to be freshened up a couple of times to rebuild and extend the life of that engine?
I will say, the consequences are farily low on an oem block that can be had relatively cheap. Does it still make sense to bore an expensive aftermarket piece out to the max bore for the first build?
Apologies to the original poster if I have strayed too far
I will say, the consequences are farily low on an oem block that can be had relatively cheap. Does it still make sense to bore an expensive aftermarket piece out to the max bore for the first build?
Apologies to the original poster if I have strayed too far
We leave room plenty for cleanups unless the customer wants a specific displacement.
402 or 408 ?? Your splitting hairs at that point I agree. 370? well people throw thousands of dollar to chase a few extra ponies, the cost of a crank is minimal when you look at the big picture. Your stock crank needs to be magnafluxed and polished , you don't just stick it straight back in. So depending on what crank you use a 408/402 could be as little as $300 more than a 370 and all things being equal the 408 should make more power than the 370. Is 47.5 hp ( going by your 1.25/cid) worth $300-$500?
I would have to say yes based on what we see people spend to make 15 more hp.
You can get an iron block from the junkyard fairly cheap, new they are only 750.
You also look at whats on the shelf (pistons) when you build it and decide from there as well.
I agree with you but I think there is more in the block than you think.
#20
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How do you determine that multiple cleanups are available above 4.030? I realize that sonic testing would be the only way to know what the max is for a given block. I searched through the catalogs for Mahle & Wiseco and I found pistons for LS applications varied, but 4.000, 4.005, 4.010, 4.030, 4.065 and 4.070 are all available. Oddly, neither one listed 4.060, but I assume Speed Pro or some one else must offer that as well. All of Mahle's & Wiseco's pistons were only offered one size over 4.030, either 4.065 or 4.070. I assume custom pistons may be available at sizes in between, but at what cost?
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
402 or 408 ?? Your splitting hairs at that point I agree. 370? well people throw thousands of dollar to chase a few extra ponies, the cost of a crank is minimal when you look at the big picture. Your stock crank needs to be magnafluxed and polished , you don't just stick it straight back in. So depending on what crank you use a 408/402 could be as little as $300 more than a 370 and all things being equal the 408 should make more power than the 370. Is 47.5 hp ( going by your 1.25/cid) worth $300-$500?
For the original poster, my only point was why bore a virgin block .030 over and leave possibly one rebuild on the block? Is that worth 7 hp? Is maxing out the bore worth another 7 hp over that, knowing that you would have to purchase another block and start over if a ring land broke or a valve dropped?