Titanium Valves 346...
Titanium Valves 346... Who has had them, has anyone ever done a back to back my guess is not...anyone have a ballpark of what they would be worth on a 346 max effort h/c pump gas motor...
thanks
thanks
I was waiting for this out of you bud...ahahahahahah...
Any input here is good input Guy's.... And post some pics of this build chris i am dyeing here know there i dont live so close....
Rob
Any input here is good input Guy's.... And post some pics of this build chris i am dyeing here know there i dont live so close....
Rob
Well if you had a solid roller cam,you would be able to spin it to 7500 rpm and make power.Then you would need pistons and rods also,so.Any time you can stablize the valve train and keep it from floating,it would alow you to spin it higher.Uncle Rick trying to influence you a bit?
Well if you had a solid roller cam,you would be able to spin it to 7500 rpm and make power.Then you would need pistons and rods also,so.Any time you can stablize the valve train and keep it from floating,it would alow you to spin it higher.Uncle Rick trying to influence you a bit?
spoke with tea and robz* car had them in it too...
they recommend that I not massage the heads saying they are pretty optimized now...I wanted to know if they wanted to tackle the job for me...guess they had some heads flow bigger numbers on the bench and not make the hp to back it up...hit or miss seems...
Last edited by chrs1313; Feb 5, 2010 at 07:03 AM.
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Brief summary…comp cam was supposed to come in on a 111+4 when I degreed it was 109.3+5 so off 1.7 degrees on the lsa pushing my dcr up higher…I could get it recut but I said fu$k it and just installed it retarded *2 to try and get the ICL closer to where it should be…that is why I always laugh when people recommend dot to dot…
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Heads were around 60-61cc and I had my uncle take off .025…when I measured one yesterday it was 57.5cc…I was hoping it was going to be around 56-57 but I am still okay with it…they can always be shaved more when I build the bottom end and get some dome tops
dum
I also have been optimizing my 1.75” qtp headers and porting the fast intake more along with alignment issues…I had to get some watercut gaskets to raise the intake up so the ports had a less restricted transition and matched up better…
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Threw a umi k member in and had the back a-arm bolt seize up in the bushings when I tried to removed the stock arms from the stock k member to the point a 3 lb sledge didn’t even budge them, so I had to get a used set off a member which should be here around Monday… dum
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Still have some ideas about lightening up the front end a hair with a fabbed up aluminum bracket to hold the radiator from below and cut the old one out along with the horns…hope to save around 8-10lbs there…also going to see what I can take out from the inside under the carpet…
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Just your everyday street car…
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I think the advantage over a hollow intake valve is only worth it as you go up in size. I am guessing in your chamber size and talking with TEA that you are running a TF 215 head. Price per dollar upgrading to hollow 2.04 intake valves versus a version would be a much better bet. I would also not run titanium exhaust valves. I've just happened to see quite a few of them fail and it is not a pretty sight. If you have the money to spend on them I say go for it. They are a proven performance enhancer. You may not see immediate horsepower gains, but the better valvetrain control, and less weight will enhance part life.
Chris...I spoke with Brian Tooley a while back about doing additional work to my heads...he recommended buying the light LS3 valves and cutting them down to size vs going Ti...said they would be much more durable and they about right about in between a Ti valve and the SS valves that come in the TFS heads weight wise. He also mentioned hand finishing the combustion chambers and doing a 50 degree exhaust valve seat that it makes a little more power
Chris...I spoke with Brian Tooley a while back about doing additional work to my heads...he recommended buying the light LS3 valves and cutting them down to size vs going Ti...said they would be much more durable and they about right about in between a Ti valve and the SS valves that come in the TFS heads weight wise. He also mentioned hand finishing the combustion chambers and doing a 50 degree exhaust valve seat that it makes a little more power
just trying to gather alot of info before I bolt these on...thanks
The titanium valves would need lash caps to protect the tips and most likely a custom spring retainer to allow clearance for the caps. I don't think you would see any more power unless your previous valvetrain was unstable and floating valves. Just use a good spring shimmed 0.050" from coilbind and check your rocker wipe pattern. Titanium valves are overkill for what you are trying to do.
If this is max effort, lightweight valves are critical for valve float. I wouldn't think you would see any power, none that dyno variables could account for, just peace of mind. The gains had would MAX like 1-2 and for any chassis dyno, that is a margin of error from back to back runs without any modifications.
I know your springs and lifters would thank you.
EDIT: Wish I would of done some lightweight titanium valves when I had my heads off on the 799s. What I have now is the same stock weight valves as the 241s, but a ton more control as I dip higher and higher into the engine range
I know your springs and lifters would thank you.
EDIT: Wish I would of done some lightweight titanium valves when I had my heads off on the 799s. What I have now is the same stock weight valves as the 241s, but a ton more control as I dip higher and higher into the engine range
Last edited by 1SLwLS1; Feb 8, 2010 at 09:15 PM. Reason: adder
