Head Swap
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I am about to do a head swap soon and was wondering if I need to replace anything in the process. When I forged my motor I installed new lifter trays,comp cams OE replacement lifters,chrome-moly pushrods,thunder racing modified ls1/ls6 modified oil pump and a TR220. They now have about 40,000 miles on them and was wondering if I need to replace any of them when I swap my heads? I am going to keep the same cam.
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Checking pushrod length is absolutely right. You need the heads configured to maintain or bump compression based off the cut pistons your running. Give us a call & we can help!
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Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
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I didn't see anything abput valve springs, if your still running the same valve springs after 40,000 I'd put new ones in if you have any kind of aggressive cam. I've heard "safe" valve spring life is anywhere from 10,000-30,000 miles depending on cam and what springs you are running.
I'd hate to reuse old tired valve springs to save a few bucks, then drop a valve in my new motor
I'd hate to reuse old tired valve springs to save a few bucks, then drop a valve in my new motor
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I agree and will put in a new set of lifter trays. What about the comp lifters and oil pump? I have a comp cam adjustable pushrod so I will check pushrod length. Heads have brand new dual valve springs and came with a new set of head gaskets. I have a brand new set of GM Head Bolts. Should I use ARP Head Studs instead?
#9
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Honestly unless you want to drop the K member and motor to change a head gasket I wouldn't use head studs in an F-body. But I would recomend ARP head bolts. If you already have new stock bolts in hand use them, then the next time you pull your heads put in ARPs