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IS the balancer snout supposed to sit against the timing sprocket?

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Old 02-13-2010, 10:08 AM
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Default IS the balancer snout supposed to sit against the timing sprocket?

Alright fellas, I have tried searches and can not come up with a clear answer on this. In my service manual it says when installing the balancer to use the old bolt and get the balancer torqued to 240 ft. lbs. then remove the bolt and install the new one. Torque it to 37 lbs and then 140Degrees. In the manual is says that there should be .094-.176 gap from the end of the crank snout to the outside edge of inner balancer hub. Torquing it to 240 lbs would force it against the crank timing sprocket. Correct,,? the balancer is a straight bore, and there is no shoulder on the crank so Thats what I see happening. When installing mine I have .125 gap which is in specs. But the manual says nothing about the balancer snout mating against the sprocket which mine is doing. IS This is how its supposed to be?

and for the really knowing--- When using a rollmaster double chain, using the oil pump spacers,,I have heard that when you use these spacers, You have to remove the same amount of matierial from the balancer snout. I know the balancer snout also has a lip, Do they mean cut the lip back further on the balancer, leaving the snout of the balancer the same?If you space the oil pump out You are not changing the distance between the balancer and timing sprocket, just the oil pump and the balancer Lip? A little light on this from experienced guys will really help.

Last edited by RARON455; 02-13-2010 at 10:23 AM.
Old 02-13-2010, 01:39 PM
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The hub of the harmonic damper (pulley) should bear up against the oil drive portion of the lower timing gear. There is a section on the crank behind the sprocket that it bears against. Hope this answers your question.
Old 02-13-2010, 05:55 PM
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Thats what I figured that the balancer snout rested against the timing sprocket Hub. when torquing it just locks them altogether.

So when people talk about clearancing the balancer after having to use a shim setup on the oil pump for the double roller timing chain,, They must mean cutting that shoulder on the snout back the width of the shims for the oil pump correct?
Old 02-13-2010, 06:33 PM
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I am not sure on that although I have seen guys with issues specific to certain aftermarket dampers. Not sure why you would need to modify the snout in your photo. The position of the oil pump farther out from the block shouldn't effect this, but it could hit the timing cover.
Old 02-13-2010, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RARON455
...So when people talk about clearancing the balancer after having to use a shim setup on the oil pump for the double roller timing chain,, They must mean cutting that shoulder on the snout back the width of the shims for the oil pump correct?
Never heard of "clearancing the balancer", you sure you don't mean the front cover? I had no balancer issues running a double Rollmaster, only front cover clearance which was easily resolved with some Dykem blue and a carbide bit...
Old 02-13-2010, 08:10 PM
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Simply put: yes. As you push the pulley home you'll reach a point where the torque required to turn the pusher bolt goes up dramatically. This is when the crank pulley snout has kissed the sprocket and can't go any further. The GenI does the same thing.
Old 02-13-2010, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Never heard of "clearancing the balancer", you sure you don't mean the front cover? I had no balancer issues running a double Rollmaster, only front cover clearance which was easily resolved with some Dykem blue and a carbide bit...
Yeah, what I have been hearing is that if you use the shims to put the oil pump out so it clears the chain, The pump now sits further out than it used to and causes the shoulder part of the balancer to actually force its way into the oil pump cover so to fix it you have to cut the balancer shoulder back the same amount as the shims? I bought a melling pump that is supposed to be clearanced for the double roller, so hopefully I wont have to use the shims and not worry about this.

The front timing cover is no worries for me, I am no stranger to a die-grinder and some dykem.
Old 02-15-2010, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by RARON455
Yeah, what I have been hearing is that if you use the shims to put the oil pump out so it clears the chain, The pump now sits further out than it used to and causes the shoulder part of the balancer to actually force its way into the oil pump cover so to fix it you have to cut the balancer shoulder back the same amount as the shims?...
FYI: I didn't need to do this with my stock balancer and stock (ported) oil pump when using the Rollmaster double chain set.
Old 02-19-2010, 02:35 AM
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Yeah I was a little concerned when I installed my TCI balance cause it torque down to a point and stopped as well, assuming up against my double roller. Seems to stick out a bit, but measures within tolerance so see what happens when it starts. Prolly some wibble wobble....hope not!
Old 02-19-2010, 02:55 PM
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It depends on the balancer. I had the exact problem you described with my Rollmaster and an older ASP pulley. Once seated, the pulley pinned the timing gear against the block and the motor couldn't turn at all. With my Fluidampr, I don't have that problem at all.




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