Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

For a while i was getting a code for Bank 1 sensor 1 O2 no activity, come to find out that O2 sensor wasn't even hooked up because the previous owner put on LT headers and never got the extensions. anyways i got an extension hooked it up took it for a drive and after the car would warm up a little bit (around 170ish) it was start to hesitate and sputter intermittently and still got the no activity code.
I found that where the O2 extension plugs into the harness, there is a group of wires after that and there was a grounding strap that wasn't grounded it was just hanging there. I grounded that strap and took it for a drive and once again once it warmed up a little bit it started to sputter again, i stopped in a parking lot and looked under the hood didn't see any loose wires or anything like that. got back into the car and got on it a little bit, after i let off the gas it kicked out a ses light, i got a P0102, P0135, and P0155.

I did some research and already checked the eng sen fuse, it looked good, i don't have a volt meter so i cant check the pink wire on the MAF. I read about some people saying to unplug the MAF and see if it runs better after that, how does that work, won't the car still run bad with that not pluged in?

sorry for the long post but i really need some help here, i haven't had this car running right since i have had it and i'm sick of it, i just want to be able to drive this damn thing once..

Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

i did notice that one of the locks on the front of my SLP intake lid is missing causing the front driver side of the lid to not seal all the way... could this have anything to do with the p0102 code for the MAF?
I'm really hoping that it is just debris or something in the MAF, i've never had this light until today after reconnecting that ground wire and taking it for a drive...

blackLS1m6

iTrader: (14)

the po135 and po155 are for 02 sensor heater performance. Being that they were unplugged for sometime they might be junk. I would start with 02 sensors and go from there. Your hesitation is probably coming from the po102 for the maf. Unplugging it will put it in failure mode see if the hesitation goes away.

Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

If I unplug it and the hesitation goes away does that mean bad maf? How would I go about cleaning it?
I just took it for a drive and got on it prety hard it kicked out the p0102 code again and then I had no power Roma were dropping to like 500 the car stalled 3 times while nursing it back. It was bad.. That was with the maf still connected I have only disconnected and backed out the driveway. The car shifts very hard with the maf disconnected is that normal or bad to do?

blackLS1m6

iTrader: (14)

More than likely, my friend just had a po102 maf code and it hesitated horribly. By unplugging it will be running off speed density basically. Im not sure why it would be shifting hard with it unplugged, take it out and see if it still hesitates.

Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

ok i got home from work this morning cleaned the MAF put it back together, i backed out of my driveway and everything was good in reverse, as soon as i put it in drive the car stalled, i restarted put it back in D it sputtered kind of lunged forward then died again.. I disconnected the MAF and took it for a drive around the block, got on it twice and had no issues, no sputtering, no hesitation, nothing... So am i looking at a bad MAF?

what if i just left it disconnected? would leaving the MAF disconnected cause me anyother problems? the car just seems to run so much better with it disconnected..

blackLS1m6

iTrader: (14)

I would say replace the MAF. Not sure of what exactly would happen but im sure mileage would suffer.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

You're trying to relate things that don't have anything to do with each other. Do try to connect fauts by looking for a connection between different devices or functions. Think about your DTCs and what could cause them. Try to relate that to your symptoms. Cars that have a MAF are not Speed Density. If your going to do any serious troubleshooting your going to need a DVOM and a good scan tool that will show the PIDs that are involved in your DTCs going set. You also need a schematic so you can check for proper voltages on your sensor connectors. Most voltages can be checked at KOEO while sensor data must be taken at KOER. Watch B1S1 and B2S1 for switching above and below 450mVdc(Stoich). Watch your MAF change as you do a few SNAPs. A dirty MAF will under report air flow

Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

today i changed out the bank 1 sensor 1 O2, had some problems getting it in do to the LT headers, i ended up having to unbolt the header from the block so i could get it low enough to get the O2 sensor in (which of course one of the header bolts got cross threaded on the way back in..) i took it for a run around the block went WOT 3 or 4 times, never had any hesitation, no p0102 codes, car seemed to run great for once..

Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

i drove around for about an hour tonight. never had any sputters or hesitations, no P0102 light at all.. I ran a toyota Xrunner from a 30roll, after i stopped spinning i put half a car on him and thats when he let out.. the only issue i had the entire time is i got P0131, P0151 and P0154 lights... The car has 2 brand new bosch O2 sensors in it and both the harnesses look good.. is there anything else i can look at that would cause low to no activity for the O2's?