Trick flow , MS4 and Fast 102 combo
nice setup! Your combo could break 500rwhp on a dynojet on a good tune. You've got the headflow, an intake that won't hinder those heads, cam, and compression to get there.
One thing I didn't see mentioned is the fuel pump. If you still have the stock piece, you'll want a 250gph such as the one in the Racetronix kit. No sense in skimping on fuel supply when spraying 250hp+ on a $9k motor.
Jason
One thing I didn't see mentioned is the fuel pump. If you still have the stock piece, you'll want a 250gph such as the one in the Racetronix kit. No sense in skimping on fuel supply when spraying 250hp+ on a $9k motor.
Jason
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nice setup! Your combo could break 500rwhp on a dynojet on a good tune. You've got the headflow, an intake that won't hinder those heads, cam, and compression to get there.
One thing I didn't see mentioned is the fuel pump. If you still have the stock piece, you'll want a 250gph such as the one in the Racetronix kit. No sense in skimping on fuel supply when spraying 250hp+ on a $9k motor.
Jason
One thing I didn't see mentioned is the fuel pump. If you still have the stock piece, you'll want a 250gph such as the one in the Racetronix kit. No sense in skimping on fuel supply when spraying 250hp+ on a $9k motor.
Jason
Last edited by PONTIAC SLP; Mar 9, 2010 at 10:43 AM.
I don't mean to be rude, but are you serious that you don't know how to check for the correct pushrod length? That is almost as basic as you can get.
You got new pistons, but are you going to have the new rotating assembly balanced?
It sounds like your buddy is going to be pushing this motor hard, do your buddy a favor and get some experienced help with putting this together. It might hurt your ego, but there is more to making a motor perform, and last, that simply bolting on the heads and slapping in a cam.
is this your first built engine you have done...or are you just getting parts and having someone else do it...kind of getting us all nervous when you ask how to check pushrod length...also seems like you are in a hurry for no reason...take your time and do it right...
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I don't mean to be rude, but are you serious that you don't know how to check for the correct pushrod length? That is almost as basic as you can get.
You got new pistons, but are you going to have the new rotating assembly balanced?
It sounds like your buddy is going to be pushing this motor hard, do your buddy a favor and get some experienced help with putting this together. It might hurt your ego, but there is more to making a motor perform, and last, that simply bolting on the heads and slapping in a cam.
You got new pistons, but are you going to have the new rotating assembly balanced?
It sounds like your buddy is going to be pushing this motor hard, do your buddy a favor and get some experienced help with putting this together. It might hurt your ego, but there is more to making a motor perform, and last, that simply bolting on the heads and slapping in a cam.
I know what i'm doing this isn't the first time that i prepared a car .
answered above
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Verdad Gallardo I'm confused. You say that you weren't born with this information, which I can understand, and is normal, but then you reply with "I know what I'm doing, this isn't the first time that I prepared a car." Which is it? Or on the other cars did you simply leave the stock pushrods?
I wasn't trying to flame or instigate. If you have someone building the motor, then they should be the one measuring for correct pushrod length and rocker arm geometry as well as piston to valve clearance amongst a multitude of other measurements. It's a pretty important measurement, and as long as you have someone who knows what they are doing, it's not an issue.
All we are saying is, usually, you don't order pushrods until you have the heads bolted up, and the cam degreed, and the rockers adjusted for the correct swipe over the valve stems. Granted, it's a hydraulic lifter, but just look at how many threads are posted when people just 'guess' at pushrod length and then have issues with hanging a valve, or a noisy top end.
Don't rush it, or that $10,000 he spent can turn into another $5000-$10,000 easy if he grenades the motor.
I wasn't trying to flame or instigate. If you have someone building the motor, then they should be the one measuring for correct pushrod length and rocker arm geometry as well as piston to valve clearance amongst a multitude of other measurements. It's a pretty important measurement, and as long as you have someone who knows what they are doing, it's not an issue.
All we are saying is, usually, you don't order pushrods until you have the heads bolted up, and the cam degreed, and the rockers adjusted for the correct swipe over the valve stems. Granted, it's a hydraulic lifter, but just look at how many threads are posted when people just 'guess' at pushrod length and then have issues with hanging a valve, or a noisy top end.
Don't rush it, or that $10,000 he spent can turn into another $5000-$10,000 easy if he grenades the motor.
Last edited by The Alchemist; Mar 9, 2010 at 09:20 AM.
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Well, I wasn't trying to flame or instigate. If you have someone building the motor, then they should be the one measuring for correct pushrod length and rocker arm geometry as well as piston to valve clearance amongst a multitude of other measurements.
All we are saying is, usually, you don't order pushrods until you have the heads bolted up, and the cam degreed, and the rockers adjusted for the correct swipe over the valve stems. Granted, it's a hydraulic lifter, but just look at how many threads are posted when people just 'guess' at pushrod length and then have issues with hanging a valve, or a noisy top end.
All we are saying is, usually, you don't order pushrods until you have the heads bolted up, and the cam degreed, and the rockers adjusted for the correct swipe over the valve stems. Granted, it's a hydraulic lifter, but just look at how many threads are posted when people just 'guess' at pushrod length and then have issues with hanging a valve, or a noisy top end.
I'll cancel the pushrods . 
I went back and re-read this thread a few times, and i knew something was missing. A fuel system? There is no way you are going to get away with a 250 shot of nitrous on a just a walbro 255. There is going to have to be either another pump added to this setup or a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous.
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I went back and re-read this thread a few times, and i knew something was missing. A fuel system? There is no way you are going to get away with a 250 shot of nitrous on a just a walbro 255. There is going to have to be either another pump added to this setup or a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous.
That big of shot you are going to be starving the cylinders of fuel. You get your fuel for the nitrous from the fuel rails feeding the motor. Unless you have a double pumper, with a -6 an line for your feed and at least your stock line for a return, you are going to have fueling issues on spray.
It doesn't matter what type of kit the nitrous it is both ways you need to add fuel either through tuning or through a solenoid!
Maybe you should spend sometime over in the nitrous section researching and asking some question over there, you would get better feedback I am sure.
It doesn't matter what type of kit the nitrous it is both ways you need to add fuel either through tuning or through a solenoid!
Maybe you should spend sometime over in the nitrous section researching and asking some question over there, you would get better feedback I am sure.
Check out some of the threads Larry@Speedinc (LS1SPEED) has posted in the the dyno section. I recall they did a h/c/i setup a while back with TFS 215s, a FAST 92, and their SI6 cam (235/240 .621/.609 111lsa) that put down 475rwhp. With that said I think your buddies car should be right around 470-480rwhp N/A and probably 700+ on N2O. With that much power I would highly recommed you get a better clutch. I picked up a Mcleod RST twindisk from Speed Inc last year. I'm running it with a Tick M/C and '01-'02 GM slave and it works great. It has Massive clamping power and great pedal feel.
Just my .02 I am running 36lb injectors right now N/A.
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i have to agree with a previous poster about only doing like a 150 shot....i dont want to insult you and thats not my intention but have you run a 700whp car down the track? if you havent def. build the motor and run it and see what you think....you may be satified with the 500whp you gonna have n/a....if you have prevously run a 9 second car than i apologize but i still feel that a 150 shot is all you should run so far as longevity for your car, i dont know your budget but a 250 shot is going to ensure taring that motor down every year if you wanna do things right, everything will lost much longer on a 150 shot, motor, drivetrain etc...i dont know how much money you make though, if your a baller than spray the **** out of it and rebuild as needed, this is just the info i have from my stepdad who runs with the midwest superstock mafia...he has a 588 and sprays 250hp+ into that motor and he has to rebuild it every winter, which consider a 250 shot for that motor would be the equivelant to like a 125 shot on yours....agian not tryin to be rude, just if i were in your situation i would want someone to tell me this if i didnt already know...and maybe you do in which case i apologize but thought id throw it out there....good luck either way your cars gonna be a bad bitch!
