resizing rods?
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resizing rods?
What exactly is involved in resizing rods? I'm bout to be getting some arp rod, main, and head bolts. They say I gotta have the rods resized. What exactly does that mean? I'm pretty sure it means taking them out and sending to a machine shop right?
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Yes, a machine shop will grind a little off the cap and the mating surface on the rod, and hone them round again. It's best when installing different rod bolts, but some get by without doing it.
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But if I wanna be safe I might a.s well. It give me some insurance. About how much should that run me for all 8 rods? Wait, if they take material out to make it round again, wouldn't that weaken the rod?
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Might as well get some Scat I-Beam rods. By the time you add up the ARP rod bolts and machining costs for resizing the stock rods you could get the Scat's for a few more dollars.
#7
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yes you can resize the stock rods. forged rods come ready to bolt in with arp bolts but r in the 600 dollar + range. and yes forged pistons fit on stock rods, there r alot to choose from just more selection with longer aftermarket rods. also its not expensive at all for the machine work on stock rods. i payed 100 dollars 4 my bolts and 40 dollars to have all 8 rods resized. and there are a cheaper set of arp bolts as well.
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#8
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There are manufacturers who sell forged pistons for stock rods (Probe, Diamond, Wiseco...), but the selection is limited compared to 6.125" rods with a .927" pin. You can get SCAT 5140 I beams for a little over $200 I think.
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And I bet those scat rods would be stronger anyway. OK the stock rotating assembly is rated at 500 HP. So with the scat I beams, forged pistons, arp fasteners, and stock crank what would be a good estimate for power limits? 600? More?
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So I would like some feedback of my power limits with the new stuff. Forged pistons, scat I beams, arp fasteners all the way around, but to go back with stock crank. Stock was 500. Anybody think that would go up to maybe 600? More?
#12
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a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. the stock rods, crank and pistons are only good to 500 RWHP. (ish). in order to raise that 500hp limit, you have to upgrade everything. you can put a set of rods that are rated to 1200hp but your crank is still only good to 500.
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Yeah but from what I've heard the crank isn't the weak link. The rod bolts are, so upgrading everything to arp. Rod bolts, main and head studs. Better rods and forged pistons, the limit of horsepower should increase.
#14
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yes forged rods will increase your hp range because the metal is stronger. there are cars makin 800+ hp on stock cranks. unless your building a race car i really dont think you need a forged crank. scat i beams with the low grade arp bolts r 300 + shipping from speed inc. to upgade to arp 2000 series bolts i believe they were 400+ on scats home page. but like i said unless your really building some serious hp or using your car as a track only car you really dont need em imo but thats just me.
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yes forged rods will increase your hp range because the metal is stronger. there are cars makin 800+ hp on stock cranks. unless your building a race car i really dont think you need a forged crank. scat i beams with the low grade arp bolts r 300 + shipping from speed inc. to upgade to arp 2000 series bolts i believe they were 400+ on scats home page. but like i said unless your really building some serious hp or using your car as a track only car you really dont need em imo but thats just me.
#16
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yes forged rods will increase your hp range because the metal is stronger. there are cars makin 800+ hp on stock cranks. unless your building a race car i really dont think you need a forged crank. scat i beams with the low grade arp bolts r 300 + shipping from speed inc. to upgade to arp 2000 series bolts i believe they were 400+ on scats home page. but like i said unless your really building some serious hp or using your car as a track only car you really dont need em imo but thats just me.
the stock crank rods and pistons is only good to 500 hp. yes you can push it past that a little, but it becomes a ticking time bomb. esp if you run it like its ment to be run. just changing rods is not going to move your HP range up at all, because the crank will still only be good to 500 hp. period.
the rod bolts arent neccessiarly weak, they just dont like any RPM's over stock range.
of course, because this is what you want to hear and beleive, but the simple fact is its false.
#17
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to the op i suggested talking to some actual motor builders. and some lsx motor builders. cuz your always gonna get people that feel you need 2 spend a fortune to build a strong motor. 4 your goals and hp range you do not need to go all forged. some major sponsors on here have talked me out of going forged cuz for 600-650 hp its a waste of money. one of my uncles with an A gas car that races professionally and has a race team whos head engine builder even told me it was a waste 4 my goals. i have a buddy with a 675 rwhp camaro that runs 10.20s on a completely stock gm bottom end. you need to talk to people that know what they are doing. you dont need forged rods or crank dude. just seach on this site there are lots of people who will back up the fact that a stock crank can handle well over 500hp and that the rod bolts become the weak point. anyways just do what you feel is worth it to u op.
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I'm gonna go with blue bird. Y waist all my money on something idont need. When there are plenty of documented 600+ horespower builds on stock cranks. I guess if I just like throwing money out the window LOL! I'm with blue bird!
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The stock crack rods cannot be resized in the fashion that a early small block can be done. If you change the bolts it would be best to have your local machine shop check the rods when tq'd to make sure they are still round on the big end. If they are round they should be fine.
Kurt
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