Heads come off and water is no where to be seen. 
What type of finish on block for MLS gaskets?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 999
From: Evansville,IN
What type of finish on block for MLS gaskets? I did a search on this but had no luck.
I am doing a H/C/I/E swap on my car at the moment. I am using GM MLS gaskets.
I used a razor blade gasket scraper to get most of the old gasket material off the block but there was still some on it. I got a 3M roloc plastic buffer wheel that's suppose to be safe for aluminum. Everything is cleaned up now and I just want t make sure I don't need anything else.
Is any copper coat required? Compression will be right at 11.5:1 and I will be spraying no more than 150 on it. I am also using ARP bolts.
Thanks for any help.
Jason
I am doing a H/C/I/E swap on my car at the moment. I am using GM MLS gaskets.
I used a razor blade gasket scraper to get most of the old gasket material off the block but there was still some on it. I got a 3M roloc plastic buffer wheel that's suppose to be safe for aluminum. Everything is cleaned up now and I just want t make sure I don't need anything else.
Is any copper coat required? Compression will be right at 11.5:1 and I will be spraying no more than 150 on it. I am also using ARP bolts.
Thanks for any help.
Jason
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Houston Tx
I used the same plastic/rubber buffing wheel and got it clean, then installed the gaskets dry( no silicon or copper gasket spray) and everything came out good. Just make sure all the bolt holes are free of dirt and water, you will run into big problems if there is any water in the holes. Make sure to use new head bolts. I followed the torque sequence on "LS1 How To" and it worked. I was for sure I was going to break every bolt, but that is how tight they need to be to stretch the bolts.What head/cam combo did you go with?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,716
Likes: 999
From: Evansville,IN
I used the same plastic/rubber buffing wheel and got it clean, then installed the gaskets dry( no silicon or copper gasket spray) and everything came out good. Just make sure all the bolt holes are free of dirt and water, you will run into big problems if there is any water in the holes. Make sure to use new head bolts. I followed the torque sequence on "LS1 How To" and it worked. I was for sure I was going to break every bolt, but that is how tight they need to be to stretch the bolts.What head/cam combo did you go with?
I went with TEA 5.3 stage 1.5 heads and a 226/230 .598/.600 112+2 cam from EPS.
Shoot for an Ra (roughness average) of 15-30 microinches
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...nt_update.aspx
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti..._finishes.aspx
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...nt_update.aspx
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti..._finishes.aspx
I used a sanding/buffing wheel also puts a nice surface on the block. For the bolt holes i took an old headbolt and grinded down a couple sides of it and chased down the holes then used compressed air and ALOT of paper towels to make sure it was dry and clean. That is the only thing i had about these damn LS1's is replacing the heads it takes forever to get all the water and debris out of the holes.
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First time I used a miti-vac to clear the bolt holes. ARP makes a thread chaser for the head bolt holes, not cheap though. Don't use a tap. I checked my block when it was done and for the most part it was around 25 Ra. Those areas that were higher I touched up.
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A really good way to ensure all the bolt holes are dry, is to use compressed air. Get a nozzle with a thin, flexible line that will reach down to the bottom of the hole. Quick shot of carb cleaner, then blow the hell out of the hole.. They will be dry.
