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Crank Sensor getting tore up by Reluctor Wheel

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Old 05-30-2010, 02:47 PM
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Default Crank Sensor getting tore up by Reluctor Wheel

A friend of mine has a 6.0 block with a 4.0 stroke Scat Crank, the Reluctor Wheel on the Crank is tearing up the Crank Sensor. So far we've gone through 2 of them.

Could the Reluctor have been made off-center or possibly too large of a diameter?

We are getting another Sensor and shimming it to see if it makes a difference, or to possibly find out what the problem is.
Old 05-30-2010, 08:37 PM
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Crank walking? There was an issue about this with Scat cranks.

From another site:

http://www.hardcorels1.com/vbulletin...ad.php?p=36123

There was no note enclosed with the crankshaft stating it would not accept the proper LS1 flywheel bolts.

I had to find this out on the internet from, among others, Erik Koenig, one of the most respected engine builders in the country.

It has been stated on LS1tech.com that SCAT produced a "batch of bad crankshafts with the wrong thread size" for the flywheel bolts.

Also, the issue was raised, and confirmed again by Mr. Koenig, that there was a problem with the "thrust walls" being too short where they contact the thrust surfaces of the #3 main bearing in these LS engines. Apparently the "thrust wall issue" was prevalent with many of the SCAT cranks that had the wrong threads tapped into them for the flywheel bolts.

So, the upshot of all of this is:
-I have a set of $26.00 ARP flywheel bolts that I cannot use.
-I have to purchase yet another set of flywheel bolts (7/16-20), and guess at the ARP part #, and hope I order the right ones.
-since my engine is already assembled, I have to "hope" that the thrust walls are tall enough to prevent "crank walking" and premature engine failure.
Old 05-30-2010, 11:06 PM
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It not back n forth man..it's side to side. The Reluctor Wheel is tearing into the Crank Sensor with 2 distinct slots..something is wrong with the Wheel on the Crank.
Old 05-31-2010, 08:56 AM
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was your block machined? mains honed? ive heard of horror stories where the machining moved the crank up in the block and then covers leak and chains are too loose ect... I cant remember if the sensor sits at a true 90 deg from the reluctor of if it sits just slightly higher and a moved crank centerline would cause contact... otherwise I would say the wheel is just too big in general
Old 05-31-2010, 10:28 AM
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It's a friend of mine who has this prob.. I have an Eagle Forged Crank in my Engine and I have no issues. Both of us had our Engines built at the same place.

I'm pretty sure the sensor is at a 90* angle with the crank too.
Old 06-01-2010, 09:59 AM
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its possible the reluctor wheel is not centered. try marking each tooth with some gear pattern paint and see if every tooth is hitting it or just a few.
Old 06-01-2010, 01:25 PM
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Install part # 12565102 shim washer as shown.

Russ Kemp
Attached Thumbnails Crank Sensor getting tore up by Reluctor Wheel-clipboardsencor.jpg  
Old 06-01-2010, 07:16 PM
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Can you eyeball the wheel as it turns, maybe it's bent or not installed true/square.
Old 06-02-2010, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Russ K
Install part # 12565102 shim washer as shown.

Russ Kemp
Ya we shinned it and had luck so far.. I guess there are variations in some of the blocks.
Old 06-09-2010, 01:24 PM
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shim it out use a mic



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