Single Turbo Ls1 RX7---Block is being assembled
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Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
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Single Turbo Ls1 RX7---Block is being assembled I dont usually post on this forum, but I thought this would be a good opportunity to ask for some input from you guys. Heres the deal:
Ive got a 2002 ls1 with a 224/224 598/605 114lsa, stock 317 heads with springs and hardened pushrods. It has a custom front mounted single MP70 turbo with 3.5in down pipe. The only internal mod is the arp rod bolts. The car weighs 2802lbs so it wont take 378,876 whp to get it down the track. My realistic goals are roughly 530whp and maybe up the boost/fuel to 600whp for the track. It is a full interior, registered, insured street car.
I pulled the motor because of a massive oil pan leak and I was getting tons of blow by at idle. I bought the car as-is so id like to rebuild the motor anyways to my standards. Ive done internal work on a few ls2's and alot of sbc's but I havnt used this many aftermarket internal parts before
Input?
Thanks,
Chandler
Ive got a 2002 ls1 with a 224/224 598/605 114lsa, stock 317 heads with springs and hardened pushrods. It has a custom front mounted single MP70 turbo with 3.5in down pipe. The only internal mod is the arp rod bolts. The car weighs 2802lbs so it wont take 378,876 whp to get it down the track. My realistic goals are roughly 530whp and maybe up the boost/fuel to 600whp for the track. It is a full interior, registered, insured street car.
I pulled the motor because of a massive oil pan leak and I was getting tons of blow by at idle. I bought the car as-is so id like to rebuild the motor anyways to my standards. Ive done internal work on a few ls2's and alot of sbc's but I havnt used this many aftermarket internal parts before
Input?
Thanks,
Chandler
Last edited by F8L GTO; Jun 30, 2010 at 04:23 PM.
My buddy Matt was making 620/690 rwhp/ftlb on a single set up T76 front mount on a stock bottom end LS1 WS6 w/ 113K miles on it. The set up was on for about 10K miles on the car. He did all the fab work himself and the car ran great until he wrapped it around a light post. His set up had a similar cam the biggest difference was the 243 heads w/ a 10.5:1 comp ratio and e-85 conversion on 10lbs of boost. If you do it right with the e-85 you can keep all your stock equipment
again it comes down to ethanol availability in your area and tune
again it comes down to ethanol availability in your area and tune
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 63
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My buddy Matt was making 620/690 rwhp/ftlb on a single set up T76 front mount on a stock bottom end LS1 WS6 w/ 113K miles on it. The set up was on for about 10K miles on the car. He did all the fab work himself and the car ran great until he wrapped it around a light post. His set up had a similar cam the biggest difference was the 243 heads w/ a 10.5:1 comp ratio and e-85 conversion on 10lbs of boost. If you do it right with the e-85 you can keep all your stock equipment
again it comes down to ethanol availability in your area and tune
again it comes down to ethanol availability in your area and tune
Like I said A LOT of how your engine handles power is tuning. Your timing curve along with what fuels you use. I am running 28* right now and I am running a 95 octane fuel mix when I hit the bottle I run 110. I know the set up won't hold for ever, but I am running a stock bottom end LS1 with 100K+ miles on her. The guy who does mine and my buddies tuning is the number 2 guy in Arizona and I'd put him head to head with any of the top nation wide tuners.
Once you start running 500+ rwhp your "stock" engine is going to give the question is how hard you push her on a daily. My buddy was going to do a methanol/water set up also but like nitrous you are going to need a window switch to make sure your engine doesn't go boom once you run out of methanol. That's why he opted for the ethanol conversion instead he ate 30% of fuel economy, but he never had to worry about timing, running out of methanol and it was safe very safe no issues with detonation at all. Good luck with the set up.
Keep us posted on how she turns out.
Once you start running 500+ rwhp your "stock" engine is going to give the question is how hard you push her on a daily. My buddy was going to do a methanol/water set up also but like nitrous you are going to need a window switch to make sure your engine doesn't go boom once you run out of methanol. That's why he opted for the ethanol conversion instead he ate 30% of fuel economy, but he never had to worry about timing, running out of methanol and it was safe very safe no issues with detonation at all. Good luck with the set up.
Keep us posted on how she turns out.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Like I said A LOT of how your engine handles power is tuning. Your timing curve along with what fuels you use. I am running 28* right now and I am running a 95 octane fuel mix when I hit the bottle I run 110. I know the set up won't hold for ever, but I am running a stock bottom end LS1 with 100K+ miles on her. The guy who does mine and my buddies tuning is the number 2 guy in Arizona and I'd put him head to head with any of the top nation wide tuners.
Once you start running 500+ rwhp your "stock" engine is going to give the question is how hard you push her on a daily. My buddy was going to do a methanol/water set up also but like nitrous you are going to need a window switch to make sure your engine doesn't go boom once you run out of methanol. That's why he opted for the ethanol conversion instead he ate 30% of fuel economy, but he never had to worry about timing, running out of methanol and it was safe very safe no issues with detonation at all. Good luck with the set up.
Keep us posted on how she turns out.
Once you start running 500+ rwhp your "stock" engine is going to give the question is how hard you push her on a daily. My buddy was going to do a methanol/water set up also but like nitrous you are going to need a window switch to make sure your engine doesn't go boom once you run out of methanol. That's why he opted for the ethanol conversion instead he ate 30% of fuel economy, but he never had to worry about timing, running out of methanol and it was safe very safe no issues with detonation at all. Good luck with the set up.
Keep us posted on how she turns out.
I was more wondering the limits of the stock rods. I AM going to put forged pistons in it and a truck 6.0 crank but I cant make up my mind about the rods.
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If you are going to go to the trouble of putting pistons in the motor I would recommend putting some rods in as well. There is not a very wide selection of aftermarket pistons made to fit with the stock length rods. It would also be a good move for piece of mind in my opinion.
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If you open it up, better do it once IMO. Forged Rods would be a natural choice in your buildup. You could sell the cam and get a turbo cam while at it..unless the old 224 is on par with what you want but I'm no turbo expert..
Last edited by Johnnystock; Jun 24, 2010 at 03:36 PM.
love ur sig omg i laughed out loud...what a tool
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
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Thats really funny!!! I think Ive decided on a Weisco/Callies setup from Texas speed. Seems to be some really good stuff. I think you guys are right. Do it right ONE time. Im pretty pumped to get the car going to its full potential. Thanks for the help.
I tore down the motor today. There is still cross hatching on the walls so im just going to have it honed and run a stock diameter piston. This way if something were to happen later on, I could still bore it one time.
I tore down the motor today. There is still cross hatching on the walls so im just going to have it honed and run a stock diameter piston. This way if something were to happen later on, I could still bore it one time.
Thats really funny!!! I think Ive decided on a Weisco/Callies setup from Texas speed. Seems to be some really good stuff. I think you guys are right. Do it right ONE time. Im pretty pumped to get the car going to its full potential. Thanks for the help.
I tore down the motor today. There is still cross hatching on the walls so im just going to have it honed and run a stock diameter piston. This way if something were to happen later on, I could still bore it one time.
I tore down the motor today. There is still cross hatching on the walls so im just going to have it honed and run a stock diameter piston. This way if something were to happen later on, I could still bore it one time.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 63
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Block goes to machine shop Monday morning!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 63
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Dropped the block off at the machine shop this morning! Now I have to make a decision on the crank. Below is a list of Pros and Cons of each crank Im considering. Ive gathered some good info from reading and searching. Feel free to make modifications to my list! Let me know what you guys think
Engine info is in the first post but just so you dont have to scroll up and read
Its a 2002 ls1, honed 0.005, Diamond/Callies setup on the way, CR @ 9:1, 317 heads lightly P&P, 224/224 598/608 114lsa, Comp double springs, hardened pushrods, ARP head studs and rod bolts.....O and a Single front mounted MPt70. Power goals are in the 650whp range.
2002 LS1 ~40kmiles
Pros
-FREE
-LightER weight
-Cross drilled for better oiling
-Ive never seen one of these suckers break from less than 900whp, excluding failure from another engine component.
Cons
-Possibly harder to balance
-possibly weaker ( I think it will hold to my power goals 650whp maybe a fudge more)
Stock LQ9 (Mileage unknown)
Pros
Easier to balance
Possibly stronger
Cons
-$50
-might have to change the crank angle sensor wheel? Im pretty sure its the same from what I have read.
-Poor oiling to main bearings (Not good for high RPMs, planned 7500 w/short stroke)
Im leaning towards just using the LS1 crank but....
Would the LS1 crank be too light to balance correctly with a Diamond/Callies setup? I havn't heard of anyone having this problem but its a possibility I guess.
Thanks,
C
Engine info is in the first post but just so you dont have to scroll up and read
Its a 2002 ls1, honed 0.005, Diamond/Callies setup on the way, CR @ 9:1, 317 heads lightly P&P, 224/224 598/608 114lsa, Comp double springs, hardened pushrods, ARP head studs and rod bolts.....O and a Single front mounted MPt70. Power goals are in the 650whp range.
2002 LS1 ~40kmiles
Pros
-FREE
-LightER weight
-Cross drilled for better oiling
-Ive never seen one of these suckers break from less than 900whp, excluding failure from another engine component.
Cons
-Possibly harder to balance
-possibly weaker ( I think it will hold to my power goals 650whp maybe a fudge more)
Stock LQ9 (Mileage unknown)
Pros
Easier to balance
Possibly stronger
Cons
-$50
-might have to change the crank angle sensor wheel? Im pretty sure its the same from what I have read.
-Poor oiling to main bearings (Not good for high RPMs, planned 7500 w/short stroke)
Im leaning towards just using the LS1 crank but....
Would the LS1 crank be too light to balance correctly with a Diamond/Callies setup? I havn't heard of anyone having this problem but its a possibility I guess.
Thanks,
C
Last edited by F8L GTO; Jun 28, 2010 at 10:10 AM.
224/224 duration cam is about perfect as far as turbo setups go with a 114LSA. You will see alot of 225/225 cams. Been used for years on turbo V-8's. 230 is about as high as you would want to go with a turbo setup. Looking forward to seeing this!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 63
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Where to get an LS2 timing chain?
Also I need pretty much all the gaskets, front rear covers, water pump, oil pan etc.
Is there a site vendor that has em?
I could get them from GM or possibly a local parts store. I have hook ups at both.
Also I need pretty much all the gaskets, front rear covers, water pump, oil pan etc.
Is there a site vendor that has em?
I could get them from GM or possibly a local parts store. I have hook ups at both.
