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Stripped a rod bolt to hell

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:02 AM
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Default Stripped a rod bolt to hell

So im swapping rod bolts for arp ones, and i do 15 of them and when i get to the 16th one, my hand slips and strips the bolt pretty bad. im so freakin pissed. the motor is out of the car and on an engine stand. i tried using a vice grip but it just stripped it even more. i tried to get a smaller socket and hammer it on, but that still isnt working. tried a chisel and hammer, but that scared me and gave up on that. a couple of ideas i have gotten is:

1) jb weld the socket on the bolt and then go at it the next day
2) use a screw extractor like this one: http://www.lowes.com/pd_232656-1083-...xtractor%20Set
3) saw a slot into the bolt for a large straight screwdriver to go and then try getting it out that way (my fathers idea)
4) grind/file the sides down enough to get a smaller socket on it

this bolt is pissing me off so much, i just want to go at it with an air chisel. the problem is the bolt is so soft, it just strips so easily. any input would be appreciated.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:11 AM
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I think that if using vise grips didnt work then the bolt is probably considerably tight. you should cut the head off of the bolt and use those screw extractors that you have pictured. Or undo the other rod bolt after cutting the head off the other, pull the cap, and use visegrips on the rest of the stud sitting there.


Good luck
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cabech984
Or undo the other rod bolt after cutting the head off the other, pull the cap, and use visegrips on the rest of the stud sitting there.
Thats failsafe. It'll work.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:15 AM
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You can also torch the bolt. I was rebuilding a motor from a boat with a friend and a waterpump bolt twisted the head of. We torched it and sprayed some pb blaster on it and worked it out.

Good luck
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cabech984
I think that if using vise grips didnt work then the bolt is probably considerably tight. you should cut the head off of the bolt and use those screw extractors that you have pictured. Or undo the other rod bolt after cutting the head off the other, pull the cap, and use visegrips on the rest of the stud sitting there.


Good luck
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Thats failsafe. It'll work.
i thought i couldnt pull the cap off without having the motor remachined. i thought the whole point of installing one rod bolt at a time was cuz of this. if i took both rod bolts out and then the cap, wouldnt that make that method useless?

and the heads are off the motor also. i dont want the piston to come out. that would suck.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by twitchtwice
You can also torch the bolt. I was rebuilding a motor from a boat with a friend and a waterpump bolt twisted the head of. We torched it and sprayed some pb blaster on it and worked it out.

Good luck
i think this will be my last resort. how hot did u get the bolt tho?
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cabech984
I think that if using vise grips didnt work then the bolt is probably considerably tight. you should cut the head off of the bolt and use those screw extractors that you have pictured. Or undo the other rod bolt after cutting the head off the other, pull the cap, and use visegrips on the rest of the stud sitting there.


Good luck
X3

Cut the head of the bolt off and remove the other, take the cap off and the stud thats left over should come right out with vice grips. Once the head of the bolt is off there shouldn't be any more tention on the threads, it might thread out with your fingers. Just make sure to cover and mask off every thing before grinding so you don't get **** all through the moter.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahelou
i thought i couldnt pull the cap off without having the motor remachined. i thought the whole point of installing one rod bolt at a time was cuz of this. if i took both rod bolts out and then the cap, wouldnt that make that method useless?

and the heads are off the motor also. i dont want the piston to come out. that would suck.
You're fine. Piston wont go anywhere bc its tight in the cylinder. Be smart when you are putting the cap back on and retighten the two bolts across from each other like a tire you know. You wont have any problems.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahelou
i thought i couldnt pull the cap off without having the motor remachined. i thought the whole point of installing one rod bolt at a time was cuz of this. if i took both rod bolts out and then the cap, wouldnt that make that method useless?

and the heads are off the motor also. i dont want the piston to come out. that would suck.
The piston wont just come out the moter you have to push them out of the holes. You wont hurt any thing pulling the rod caps off, and reinstalling the same part. Just make sure you put the cap back on the rod the same direction it came off the rod.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by conan
X3

Cut the head of the bolt off and remove the other, take the cap off and the stud thats left over should come right out with vice grips. Once the head of the bolt is off there shouldn't be any more tention on the threads, it might thread out with your fingers. Just make sure to cover and mask off every thing before grinding so you don't get **** all through the moter.
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
You're fine. Piston wont go anywhere bc its tight in the cylinder. Be smart when you are putting the cap back on and retighten the two bolts across from each other like a tire you know. You wont have any problems.
ok thanks guys. so no damage will be done to the rod bearings?
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahelou
ok thanks guys. so no damage will be done to the rod bearings?
You will be fine doing that. Ive had to do that before with stock ones. Pull one side of the cap off, hack the bolt head off and use vice grips on the remaining bolt. A torch is super super helpful if you have one.

You got it!


BTW if the piston does "FALL" out, you have bigger problems than a rod bolt! lol
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahelou
ok thanks guys. so no damage will be done to the rod bearings?
I've installed rod bolts the exact same way as you (one at a time) and I've also removed caps to inspect bearings and then reinstall. No problems so far either way. Well unless there was already a problem!!!!

If youre still skeptical, cut the bolt head off, and use the extractor kit. The bolt wont have any torque on it anymore so itll be much easier to remove. Just make sure you don't leave all the metal shavings in there!
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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alright guys thanks alot for the help. whats funny is i was concentrating on all 15 bolts and then i lost my concentration for half a min to think about a girl, and this **** happens. man women can cause so much headache. haha.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahelou
alright guys thanks alot for the help. whats funny is i was concentrating on all 15 bolts and then i lost my concentration for half a min to think about a girl, and this **** happens. man women can cause so much headache. haha.
Haha. Write a book if you figure them out, you'll make millions and still be wrong!
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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Would something like this help...?
Attached Thumbnails Stripped a rod bolt to hell-craftsman-bolt-extractor-set.jpg  
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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ooooo i need that......
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by joecar
Would something like this help...?
I just picked up a kit slightly larger than this one off the Matco truck the other day. These are worth their weight in gold.

To the OP, removing the cap is fine. **** the engine up somewhat sideways on the stand just to insure everything stays still and you don't have gravity pulling on anything.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 04:43 PM
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NEVER, ever, ever use screw or bolt extractors. They don't work. They always break, and CANNOT be drilled out.

Instead, use the removal tool shown above. Works well.

Next time, use the proper tool. The ARP bolts have a 12 point 3/8" head. Most people use metric tools, and a 10mm 12 point will easily round off the head.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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so i finally got the bolt out today. what a freakin relief. didnt even have to take off the cap or other rod bolt. i started grinding the head like everyone else said, but i cut it straight down and not grounded it down. once i got down to where i could see the threads, i took a hammer and screwdriver and tried to peal the head off. before i knew it, the bolt started moving on its own. so i just used the the hammer/screwdriver to continue moving it until i could get it completely out by hand. im sure the heat from grinding had something to do with that, like someone suggested above with a torch.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28
NEVER, ever, ever use screw or bolt extractors. They don't work. They always break, and CANNOT be drilled out.
Thats foolish. First time I ever used a easy-out it worked like a charm. Stop giving people bad advice.
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