EPS 234/246 sound clip idle + low rev
#42
Hey is ur TB butterfly drilled, my maf sensors where covered in oil, (didn't know ) i drilled my butterfly, before finding out, car ran and idled much better. cleaned the sensors and ended having to buy a new tb. it would race in neutral to 2K rpm. hell in a 35 mph zone didn't need to touch the gas pedal once
#47
It's listed on www.engpwrsys.com as 1500-7200, but that's on a 111. For my combo we decided we needed to move it to a 110, which as a result with narrow the power band a bit, but pick up a touch in the middle.
#48
I may have fixed that problem. I heard a faint whistling while looking at some things under the hood. So I grabbed a hose, put one end to my ear and fished around with the other end. It seemed to be coming from by the #6 and #8 injector area. I sprayed a little starter fluid around there and the idle moved. I checked the injector o-rings again and they were fine and seated fine. I was dreading having to pull the intake off and redo the intake gasket.. but then it dawned on me to check the intake manifold bolts first and see how tight they are. The rear 3 on the passenger side at the location it was whistling I got almost a full turn on the bolts! The front 2 on that side got a 1/4 turn, and the driver side a couple bolts got an 1/8th of a turn. Either they just got loose or um.. I never made a 2nd pass on the passenger side when torquing them down. It idled better, never hunted, I revved it, held it at 3k, and each time it came back down to idle. I did everything but drive it.. but it seemed noticeably better.
#49
yeah if you are using stainless hardware it will keep backing off...i had mine back off to like 40in-lbs half the torque spec in only 20 or so miles...i tried using red locktite on the stainless and that did not help either...i ripped the fast back off and replaced the hardware with the stock bolts and problem solved...must be a slick coef. between the aluminum and Stainless...
#50
yeah if you are using stainless hardware it will keep backing off...i had mine back off to like 40in-lbs half the torque spec in only 20 or so miles...i tried using red locktite on the stainless and that did not help either...i ripped the fast back off and replaced the hardware with the stock bolts and problem solved...must be a slick coef. between the aluminum and Stainless...
#51
He does a lot of TBSS and late model GM stuff. Brandon at FAST Motorsports in IL.
#52
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This just confirmed the cam I'm going to run..... :drooool:
I think I read it correctly, But I want to confirm. If I choose the stand 111 LSA I won't have to fly cut my pistons? This will be either with my factory 853, or a set of 243.
Keep us updated after the tune, that video of your car sounds straight nasty though.
I think I read it correctly, But I want to confirm. If I choose the stand 111 LSA I won't have to fly cut my pistons? This will be either with my factory 853, or a set of 243.
Keep us updated after the tune, that video of your car sounds straight nasty though.
#54
This just confirmed the cam I'm going to run..... :drooool:
I think I read it correctly, But I want to confirm. If I choose the stand 111 LSA I won't have to fly cut my pistons? This will be either with my factory 853, or a set of 243.
Keep us updated after the tune, that video of your car sounds straight nasty though.
I think I read it correctly, But I want to confirm. If I choose the stand 111 LSA I won't have to fly cut my pistons? This will be either with my factory 853, or a set of 243.
Keep us updated after the tune, that video of your car sounds straight nasty though.
#55
Just got word on the 2nd pull, waiting for a cooldown and a little more tweaking, then a little cooling and a final numbers pull.
Won't be long.. and let's just say I'm already happy If the numbers get where he thinks they'll go, it's going to make some people call BS.
Won't be long.. and let's just say I'm already happy If the numbers get where he thinks they'll go, it's going to make some people call BS.