Emulsifide

iTrader: (22)

Here's a pic of my front cam bearing:



The block is an 01 LS1 with 103k miles.

The wear looks pretty uniform and I know it's related to the cam gear yanking down on the front of the cam. Replace or not? If so, does anyone have a howto on doing so? Thanks in advance.

Edit: The other bearings look pretty good from what I can tell by shining a light down the cam hole.

Adrenaline_Z

Replace for sure, there's way too much wear to keep that bearing.

You'll need an install tool to remove and install these. You will
also need to remove at least one piston to get access for the tool.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Every LS1 I have opened has looked the same. Not sure what your plans are or what you are doing but if you are just installing a cam I would leave it alone. If you are rebuilding the motor then replace it. A number of guys have installed bearings when they saw the same thing only to have them spin after a few thousand miles.

Emulsifide

iTrader: (22)

The plans are heads/cam/oil pump while I'm in there. Vettenuts, that's kinda what I figured. If I were to replace the one bearing, it would offset how the cam has been wearing in all the other bearings. To do the job right, all of them would have to be replaced.

Adrenaline_Z, why would I have to remove a piston to use the tool? From what I've found online, the tool goes from the front to the rear of the block and is isolated to the camshaft holes and that's it. The only thing that needs to be removed is the transmission to make room for the tool to go through both ends of the block. I'd be curious to see the tool that you're thinking of.

I'm still not sure what I want to do. I'm a bit concerned about leaving it as is, but I'm also pitching a small fit about dropping another $220 on a specialized tool. Then again, it's roughly $100 for the local shop to install cam bearings and I do plan on rebuilding an LS block of some sort in the far off future, so the tool would pay for itself after two uses.

Also, what's involved in removing the rear cover and then reinstalling it properly? Will I need a specific J-tool to line it up properly upon reinstallation? Again, more $$$.

Vettenuts, can you clarify for me whether or not the "number of guys" you speak of replaced just one cam bearing or all of them? If I had to assume, they somehow threw in just the one.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Try a search but as I remember they replaced all. Then there was a theory that GM line bored a small amount off the stock bearings. Not sure if that is true I just remember reading over the years where guys have replaced all the bearings and then spun one. Mine was similar to yours with very low mileage and I really debated what to do. In the end I left it alone. Its hard to tell from a photo but it appears that the lost lead is in a relative small area. I think if you look at any number of motor photos that guys have posted you will see the same.

In the end its your motor and you need to do what you are comfortable with.

Emulsifide

iTrader: (22)

I guess that begs the question, what would an engine shop do with regard to replacing the bearings? Do they end up slightly line honing the cam bearings after installation?

You are right though. The lead lost is roughly 1/4" wide from oil hole to oil hole. Very even looking wear.

nysbadmk8

Are you looking to get another 100k from the engine? Or are you going to rebuild or sell it withen the next 30-50k?

If the latter.. dont bother with it.

Rocktagon

iTrader: (1)

This is probably too late but... I just did this exact thing. That same bearing I messed up pulling the old cam out so it had to go (I got it good too, yours looks awesome compared to mine). Did not pull the motor, Did not drop the tranny, Didn't even have to buy that $200 wonder tool that seems to be no-******-where in all of Phoenix, Lol.

I went to Harbor Freight and bought their bearing driver kit ($25). The size you need is 59mm. Take the Top Valley Cover off (have to disconnect the 2 knock sensors first). Once you do this there is an opening in the block directly above that bearing. You can get a finger down behind on the other side of the bearing. You'll want a friend for this part. Have someone drive the bearing slowly into the block (I Know, ****** scary) and just hold onto it until its free. Rotate it 90 degrees and just pull it up through the opening in the block. That bearing is soft enough that it will pull through without tearing the block up.

Then I drank a beer. Easy.