11:1 do I need a colder pulg?
it depends for every 100 hp over stock it is suggested to go down 1 step cooler. Am running TR6 but soon I will be going to the BR7 just because I am running about 200 over stock with the nitrous. Many people will say it doesn't matter in N/A application but I tend to follow rule of thumb and my engine has 102K miles running a 150 shot and no issues at all.
I thought a colder plug might be better but I already have a new set of TR55s in my garage. Maybe I will take them back and pick up some TR6s. I will spray down the road so I will have to get the nonprojected 7 then. I was just hoping the TR55s would be OK to break in the motor.
I've ran TR55's up to 11:1 compression with no problems. Of course if nitrous is involved that would change the application, but otherwise the stock heat range is fine for 11:1. Anything over that and it's probably time to step down a heat range.
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Verdad Gallardo Colder plugs do not burn "weaker." Their fire, or spark, is just as robust as that of the hotter plug of the same type. The colder plug does dissapate heat more quickly, and if you go too many steps colder there is, of course, some point where the plug will not maintain a self-cleaning temperature and can foul.
I've been thinking about this lately. As a higher compression setup and nitrous I figured that swapping the plugs was a no brainer. I am planning on a roughly 7 plug and having it tuned on those. I think a tune should be able to solve any plug issue. Think of it ahead of time and have your car tuned on the plugs you plan on running all the time.
I've been thinking about this lately. As a higher compression setup and nitrous I figured that swapping the plugs was a no brainer. I am planning on a roughly 7 plug and having it tuned on those. I think a tune should be able to solve any plug issue. Think of it ahead of time and have your car tuned on the plugs you plan on running all the time.
incorrect....the colder plugs fire the same as hotter plugs, the only difference is the ground strap and location of the electorde in relation to the porcelin. colder plugs dissapate heat faster within the porcelin and actual threads of the plug. hotter plugs put the ground strap and electorde down in the mix further. thats all. basically, colder plugs are less succeptable to the flame going out because of the higher cylinder pressures or increase of oxygen (nitrous)
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From: K-W, Ontario
Some of you may want to review this site (and video):
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...2.asp?mode=nml
As for the original post, are you able to post a picture of the current plug?
From that we'll be able to tell whether you need to run hotter, or colder in range.
If the engine is not built, error on the colder side. Then check the plug
once the car is tuned. There's no other way to tell besides reading the
spark plug.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...2.asp?mode=nml
As for the original post, are you able to post a picture of the current plug?
From that we'll be able to tell whether you need to run hotter, or colder in range.
If the engine is not built, error on the colder side. Then check the plug
once the car is tuned. There's no other way to tell besides reading the
spark plug.