which 224/224 size cam?
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Launching!
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: PA
which 224/224 size cam? looking into purchasing a 224/224 cam for my daily driver z28 with 140k miles
now i know theres alot of brands or vendors selling that cam but i just want some advice on which one to buy and why if you folks dont mind giving me some insight id really appreciate it and it would be extremely helpful, thanks guys
ps supporting mods i have now are flp longtubes, ported ls6 intake, ported ls6 throttle body....tune will def be next step along with a converter and gears.
now i know theres alot of brands or vendors selling that cam but i just want some advice on which one to buy and why if you folks dont mind giving me some insight id really appreciate it and it would be extremely helpful, thanks guys
ps supporting mods i have now are flp longtubes, ported ls6 intake, ported ls6 throttle body....tune will def be next step along with a converter and gears.
What size tc are u going with and what springs will u be running with the cam? Usually the newer lobes are better and make more power then previous ones. If your set on the 224 u may b able to get it cut on eps lobes or something newer comp offers u will need the spring to back up the lobe design as well.
Thunder Racing 224/224 or better yet 224/227. If you want a bit more lift, then check out the Texas Speed 224R. With any of those cams, you'll need a valve spring (single spring is ok) and pushrod package like what Texas Speed sells. Might also need valve seals and maybe even a valve job since you have 140k miles. I would also throw in a LS2 timing chain or maybe the whole timing gear kit plus oil pump with those high miles.
w/ 140K miles you are going to need;
i would do a compression test first and foremost
lifters
springs
push-rods
oil pump
new lifter trays
arp head bolts/suds
water pump
all new seals
TSP timing chain package
All of this because apparently your running a 140K miles stock right. You need to do it right.
i would do a compression test first and foremost
lifters
springs
push-rods
oil pump
new lifter trays
arp head bolts/suds
water pump
all new seals
TSP timing chain package
All of this because apparently your running a 140K miles stock right. You need to do it right.
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You dont need to buy ARP head bolts and studs. Pick up some Fel-Pro head bolts or GM bolts and you will be fine. Also if your water pump is not leaking and theres no bearing noise you dont need to replace the water pump either.
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Don't buy any of the above 
about changing all those parts, change the push rods, springs and cam only with new gaskets. Why would head bolts be needed? A cam swap doesn't require the removal of the heads or intake. And for god sakes when did changing oil pumps become such a popular fade when swapping cams? A TR224 on a 112 and PAC 1218's are a good decision...
Do a search on "cam swap and now no oil pressure" and see how many hits you get!
about changing all those parts, change the push rods, springs and cam only with new gaskets. Why would head bolts be needed? A cam swap doesn't require the removal of the heads or intake. And for god sakes when did changing oil pumps become such a popular fade when swapping cams? A TR224 on a 112 and PAC 1218's are a good decision...Do a search on "cam swap and now no oil pressure" and see how many hits you get!
Last edited by MPFD; Jul 18, 2010 at 04:07 PM.
What year is your car? That would be a deciding factor in the oil pump change. 1998 Fbodys have a known issue with oil pumps failing premature. If it is a 99 and up you should be fine. Oil pumps are a simple design and pretty hard to just fail even at 140k miles. (These cars arn't old school SBCs where pumps crapped just because) LS1 motors are very reliable so at 140k yours seems to be just broken in as long as everything checks out. Swap out the cam as per LS1 how too, (do not do the drill mod on the TB) get it tuned and you will have a ton of fun! If you do "change your water pump", I would upgrade it to electric. If your car is a 99 and up 6speed with a 228r UD pulley, Electric water pump, LS6 intake w/ PP throttle body, you should be very close to 400-410 rwhp on a dynojet and run some nice times.
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Don't buy any of the above about changing all those parts, change the push rods, springs and cam only with new gaskets. Why would head bolts be needed? A cam swap doesn't require the removal of the heads or intake. And for god sakes when did changing oil pumps become such a popular fade when swapping cams? A TR224 on a 112 and PAC 1218's are a good decision...
Do a search on "cam swap and now no oil pressure" and see how many hits you get!
about changing all those parts, change the push rods, springs and cam only with new gaskets. Why would head bolts be needed? A cam swap doesn't require the removal of the heads or intake. And for god sakes when did changing oil pumps become such a popular fade when swapping cams? A TR224 on a 112 and PAC 1218's are a good decision...Do a search on "cam swap and now no oil pressure" and see how many hits you get!
WHY take the heads off if you don't have to...
that was my question???
HawaiianZ28Rider give us a call at Spectacle Solutions and see what we can do for you on prices for your parts. Maybe we can answer some of your questions about your cam choice. 901-461-2893 or 901-461-5398
w/ 140K miles you are going to need;
i would do a compression test first and foremost
lifters
springs
push-rods
oil pump
new lifter trays
arp head bolts/suds
water pump
all new seals
TSP timing chain package
All of this because apparently your running a 140K miles stock right. You need to do it right.
i would do a compression test first and foremost
lifters
springs
push-rods
oil pump
new lifter trays
arp head bolts/suds
water pump
all new seals
TSP timing chain package
All of this because apparently your running a 140K miles stock right. You need to do it right.
Seriously....ARP head bolts/studs???? HAHAHAHA! All new seals?? ....Im rebuilding my vette engine w/ 160k on it... 90% of the gaskets are reusable, ive checked the lifters, pushrods, lifter trays, and they are all perfect. Same with the water pump. The stuff is fine.... why replace it? Its lasted 140k miles...chances are if its in perfect condition its not going to all of a sudden wear out.
i think I see what 02*C5 might be saying, if your going to go deep wouldnt hurt to go ***** deep. I kind of have the same mentallity, but if i were to change heads of course. Change all the stuff so you wouldnt have to go back in.
No way in hell I would cam a car with 140k miles and not change the lifters, timing chain AND oil pump. The car might not NEED them, its more of a just-in-case part(s) to change.
Its not just the camshaft that can put a hurtin on the lifters, its the added valve spring pressure and more RPM that will likely kill them.
To the guy "rebuilding" his 160k mile vette motor and reusing the same lifters...
