LS1 Build
09-08-2010, 09:35 PM
#44
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I finally got a chance to get away from school for a bit and work more on the motor...I feel like it's been ages, but it will hopefully get running this weekend! the motor is finished and bolted up to the K member
09-10-2010, 09:11 PM
#46
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Bolted up the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and dropped the tanny onto the motor...I find this method makes it alot easier. Front accessories are all on. Also pulled the master and gona replace it considering its probably impossible to take it out with the motor in the car, so might as well do it now. I'm gona ceramic coat my headers as well so the project is gona be set back about another week or so...
09-22-2010, 11:28 PM
#48
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Picked up some Auto Meter Ultra Light gauges for my oil pressure and oil temperature along with an oil filter adapter sandwich. The headers should get done getting ceramic coated friday so I thought it would be a good idea to wire them up in the mean time. I grounded both the gauges and the lights to one bolt on the A-pillar, ran the signal wires through a hole in the firewall, and the power wires to the headlight switch so when I turn the lights on, the gauges light up. Running these wires wasn't the easiest thing in the world and took me a little while. I also picked up some white faced gauges from Macewen Motorsports http://macewenmotorsports.com/pf415057-97-wht.html. Here's what it all looks like:
Motor should be in Friday afternoon, all hooked up by Saturday, and hopefully start Saturday night. I'll keep updating.
Motor should be in Friday afternoon, all hooked up by Saturday, and hopefully start Saturday night. I'll keep updating.
Last edited by kobraa; 09-23-2010 at 01:02 AM.
09-23-2010, 05:13 PM
#50
TECH Fanatic
Nice build! Can any one explain the tourqe lingo for doing the mains, and rods? I can't get all these degrees, after tourqe to 22LBs, what the pounds???
09-23-2010, 07:17 PM
#51
That car's way too pretty to be on jackstands, get 'er running and back on the street. Hope you figured out what went wrong last time and got it worked out for this engine.
09-24-2010, 02:28 AM
#52
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Inner bolts (final pass) 80 degrees
Outer Studs (first pass) 15 lb ft
Outer Studs (final pass) 53 degrees
For the rods: (fist pass) 15 lb ft.
(final pass) 60 degrees
If you know how to use a protractor you should be able to tighten bolts to a certain degree.
10-09-2010, 11:18 AM
#53
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After 4 long months the project is pretty much done...car seems pretty healthy and has about 400 miles on it already. I'm running about 50 psi oil pressure and just a little rich. The idle can also be adjusted somewhat because it keeps dying if I try to go around 1000rpm, but it's nothing a tune can't fix. I'm going to bring it to Race Proven Motorsports (RPM) in Delaware for the tune...they are going to tune my friends GTO sometime in the future also. I have heard good things about them. Here are some final pics and a video:
I got an oil filter sandwich for my oil pressure and oil temp sensors. I ran the wires through the firewall and hooked them up here:
Engine bay:
Interior Pics:
Exterior Pics:
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXTzea4MeHc
I got an oil filter sandwich for my oil pressure and oil temp sensors. I ran the wires through the firewall and hooked them up here:
Engine bay:
Interior Pics:
Exterior Pics:
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXTzea4MeHc
Last edited by kobraa; 10-09-2010 at 11:32 AM.
10-17-2010, 10:15 PM
#60
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NRG tech in Long Island hosted a dyno day so I decided to bring the car to see some numbers. Made 401/388 on their dynojet but i was expecting around 425ish. I think I'm gona need a new ECU and get a fresh tune because 401 is too low for the parts I have. Here is a video...it was so loud inside the video couldnt even pick up the noise quality it should have.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_4xOe7m1Mo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_4xOe7m1Mo