Cam Bearings
08-09-2010, 09:37 AM
#23
Yea, its not too bad, just a rats nest which sucks but since this will be a fresh rebuilt its a good time to inspect everything. You may even want to strip down and set up for a complete clean.
If mine ever came out it be a 400+ LS2 short block going in or at the VERY least a 383 build using the stocker short block.
If mine ever came out it be a 400+ LS2 short block going in or at the VERY least a 383 build using the stocker short block.
08-09-2010, 09:53 AM
#24
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Yea, its not too bad, just a rats nest which sucks but since this will be a fresh rebuilt its a good time to inspect everything. You may even want to strip down and set up for a complete clean.
If mine ever came out it be a 400+ LS2 short block going in or at the VERY least a 383 build using the stocker short block.
If mine ever came out it be a 400+ LS2 short block going in or at the VERY least a 383 build using the stocker short block.
08-10-2010, 07:21 AM
#25
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Any of you guys know if I can slide the motor back in with the heads on? My friend that works at a chevy dealership said that theirs not enough room for it to clear because of the cowl in front of the windshield.
08-10-2010, 08:32 AM
#26
The issue is with your friend that any 4th Gen Fbody you need a crank to pitch and balance the motor. Recent I helped take out a motor but the contraption that I used lengthened over all distance from the hook of the engine hoist to the actual motor and the lift we had used required the nose to be out the farthest to clear the front clip.
We got it where the oil pan was slightly rubbing the radiator support and we maxed out the Hyd. Ram and we had to manually lift the motor so we would not scratch the bumper support.
Since then a buddy of ours took a valley cover plate, drilled from front to back holes through the Knock Sensor area, flipped it over, and bolted it to the motor. Using a threaded rod, washers and nuts we made the same thing but we did not have as much drop and the engine cleared easy.
08-10-2010, 09:34 AM
#28
I do have a pic of my OLD LT1 car which we used a chain and a block of wood. You get the idea.
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/15574/index.html (Don't mind the notes, it was created 7 years ago and I have learned so much more BUT you will see in the pics how I did it.)
Also to mention IF pulling that motor OR ANY, Having a motor plate made either that uses the intake manifold bolts (LT1) or the valley cover plate is ideal.
IF the heads are removed, you gotta find other bolt holes in most cases you would be using the motor mounts or a avalible hole.
08-10-2010, 10:16 AM
#29
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Generally yes.
I do have a pic of my OLD LT1 car which we used a chain and a block of wood. You get the idea.
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/15574/index.html (Don't mind the notes, it was created 7 years ago and I have learned so much more BUT you will see in the pics how I did it.)
Also to mention IF pulling that motor OR ANY, Having a motor plate made either that uses the intake manifold bolts (LT1) or the valley cover plate is ideal.
IF the heads are removed, you gotta find other bolt holes in most cases you would be using the motor mounts or a avalible hole.
I do have a pic of my OLD LT1 car which we used a chain and a block of wood. You get the idea.
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/15574/index.html (Don't mind the notes, it was created 7 years ago and I have learned so much more BUT you will see in the pics how I did it.)
Also to mention IF pulling that motor OR ANY, Having a motor plate made either that uses the intake manifold bolts (LT1) or the valley cover plate is ideal.
IF the heads are removed, you gotta find other bolt holes in most cases you would be using the motor mounts or a avalible hole.
08-10-2010, 11:09 AM
#30
The link I provided is what I did 7 years ago and this was my first motor pull ever. I did have to slide it forward then reconnect the chain to the heads and using the block of wood to space it out and then with help got it out.
With the LS1's you can use the valley cover plate, or some people make motor plates which really helps in ease of removing.
Because of the length of the front bumper and the motor going half under the cowl, it does make things interesting but in the end with some enginuity and some common sense, removing motors from the top is not all that hard.
