Stock LS1 rockers and lifters above 7000 rpm with Beehive Springs.
#21
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put it on a dyno and check.
But thats a lot lighter valvertrain, then what most guys run. And think would need alot of control (spring). The beehive retainer, has a ton less mass then the dual spring with the bigger locks eveyone runs. And those valves, over a LS1 valve or "standard" valve in 95% of heads guys run (even $2500-4K 100% aftermarket head setups) And you have stock rockers that are great, that looks like a mild lobe too.
But thats a lot lighter valvertrain, then what most guys run. And think would need alot of control (spring). The beehive retainer, has a ton less mass then the dual spring with the bigger locks eveyone runs. And those valves, over a LS1 valve or "standard" valve in 95% of heads guys run (even $2500-4K 100% aftermarket head setups) And you have stock rockers that are great, that looks like a mild lobe too.
#22
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... thats a lot lighter valvertrain, then what most guys run. And think would need alot of control (spring). The beehive retainer, has a ton less mass then the dual spring with the bigger locks eveyone runs. And those valves, over a LS1 valve or "standard" valve in 95% of heads guys run (even $2500-4K 100% aftermarket head setups) And you have stock rockers that are great, that looks like a mild lobe too.
#23
This is actually where more stability can be gained. Thicker wall will buy you a little bit, but larger OD will buy you a lot. Here is a link to some investigation that I did for my motor. Here is the link: Link
Vettenuts, Thank-you for the link. That is excellent information.
IDK, I see a pretty constant fluctuation in MAP every time you approach 7K, on the first chart. MAF, airflow log can also help to see. If she dips a good bit every time you approach 7K, could be valve float. Could also be intake inlet, plenum or runner restriction. However, a more than average dip could be float.
Maybe the set up is border line, right on the edge of valve float. Guess you'll have to look for physical evidence to know for sure.
#24
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You convinced me to pull a couple of rockers, one exhaust and one intake. The wear surfaces on the rocker tips look pristine but the valve tips have some pits and scratches. Unfortunately I don’t have any earlier pictures of the valve tips. My recollection is that they looked more polished than they now appear but I never looked this close. The two pushrods are not bent and look perfect.
#26
pushrods are so cheap why not get a nice 11/32 set...you are not going to lose any power at all...I did back to back pulls with chromoly 5/16 to 11/32 and hit the exact same number...
Also there are a ton of aftermarket companies that have excellent fit and finish to their PR's...
Also there are a ton of aftermarket companies that have excellent fit and finish to their PR's...
#27
LSX Mechanic
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It's easy to go 7K+ on stock rockers/beehives. The key is proper lobe profile selection, and the least amount of weight on the valvetrain as possible.
FWIW, I shifted my old heads/cam set in one of my cars @ 7100rpm's for 3 years. Stock rockers, stock 02 lifters, Comp 918's.
FWIW, I shifted my old heads/cam set in one of my cars @ 7100rpm's for 3 years. Stock rockers, stock 02 lifters, Comp 918's.
#28
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It's easy to go 7K+ on stock rockers/beehives. The key is proper lobe profile selection, and the least amount of weight on the valvetrain as possible. FWIW, I shifted my old heads/cam set in one of my cars @ 7100rpm's for 3 years. Stock rockers, stock 02 lifters, Comp 918's.
Everyone else, thanks for the comments and suggestions.
-Gary
#33
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If you are running a correct set up with the right amount of spring pressure for the valves you are using you should be fine...Now you do need to get the trunnion upgrade, this will save you a head ache, the mention of newer thicker push rods please do so stock push rods tend to flex A LOT. That is where you are probably getting rod flex, thus making your rockers "slap" and your pitting is occurring.
Good luck
Good luck