Dyno questions with 224 cam
Dyno questions with 224 cam I just installed TR 224/224 114 cam along with a yank convertor.I still have the LS1 intake on the car.This cam should pull all the way to 6000 rpm correct?I have a ton more low end,but the hp peaks and starting dropping at 5400rpm 
Is this due to still having the stock intake on the car? How much will the LS6 give me? Any suggestions would be great.Im very dissapointed in my numbers.
Is this due to still having the stock intake on the car? How much will the LS6 give me? Any suggestions would be great.Im very dissapointed in my numbers. What valve springs? Were those changed when you changed the cam?
Originally Posted by 2000Blackout
I just installed TR 224/224 114 cam along with a yank convertor.I still have the LS1 intake on the car.This cam should pull all the way to 6000 rpm correct?I have a ton more low end,but the hp peaks and starting dropping at 5400rpm Is this due to still having the stock intake on the car? How much will the LS6 give me? Any suggestions would be great.Im very dissapointed in my numbers.
Is this due to still having the stock intake on the car? How much will the LS6 give me? Any suggestions would be great.Im very dissapointed in my numbers. My 224 112LSA peaks right about 6000 rpms and holds flat till 6400 where I shift. I would guess an LS6 intake would net a good 15+ rwhp over your stock LS1 intake on a 224 cammed car.
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Its not the stock intake. I have seen them over 400hp all the time.There is something wrong though. That cam should pull hard to 6500.Most likley your dots are not lined up. I would pull the timming cover and check it again. This is becomming fairly common lately.
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Verdad Gallardo I spoke with the person who installed the cam,he insists it was lined up dot to dot,but ive also heard that with a stock chain,it could cause it to move and be off a tooth.Is this true?
Originally Posted by 2000Blackout
I spoke with the person who installed the cam,he insists it was lined up dot to dot,but ive also heard that with a stock chain,it could cause it to move and be off a tooth.Is this true?
well we pulled the cover off and moved it one dot to the right,and damn what a nite and day difference!I cant believe it the same car,its pulls very nice all the way through 6000rpm.Thanks to pekkaz for bringing this up to me. 
Originally Posted by 2000Blackout
well we pulled the cover off and moved it one dot to the right,and damn what a nite and day difference!I cant believe it the same car,its pulls very nice all the way through 6000rpm.Thanks to pekkaz for bringing this up to me.
Was the cam installed one tooth off or did you just advance the cam by one tooth?
Here is a dyno from my buddies car. It has a TR224 114lsa, m6, LTs, intake, borla, lid. This dyno to me seems kinda LOW.
Can someone also tell me why that HP and TQ don't cross at 5200 rpms?
Can someone also tell me why that HP and TQ don't cross at 5200 rpms?
Can someone explain what all is involved in degree'ing a cam in properly.
My friend just had a cam installed (232/232 .595 .595 112) and it only made 367 HP and 369 TQ.
cam only
M6
'98 factory heads
ls1 intake
autotap tuning by local houston shop
hooker long tubes -no cats-open exhaust
My friend just had a cam installed (232/232 .595 .595 112) and it only made 367 HP and 369 TQ.
cam only
M6
'98 factory heads
ls1 intake
autotap tuning by local houston shop
hooker long tubes -no cats-open exhaust
Well first of all, you can't tune a car by autotap, you need ls1edit to do so. Second, you can't really expect to get good dyno numbers when the car doesn't have all the bolt ons and is still running through the restrictive ls1 intake. What is the a/f ratio like Magred?
2000Blackout...... So when you moved one tooth to the right the dots are now dot to dot? The TR224's come with 4 degrees advance ground in and I installed mine straight up dot to dot.
My Dyno Graph.....
My Dyno Graph.....