Not sure where to post this. Trying to find an adapter so I can mount stock coolant temperature sender and Autometer sender in the same port. Looking for something like this. Only problem is I can only find them in the UK.

Specifically I am looking for Male M12 x 1.5 x Female M12 x 1.5 x Female 1/8" NPT x 27

Anyone know where I can find one? I believe my passenger rear port is reading lower and want to put my Autometer send on the DS front head to capture those readings.

 

I'd hit up Westlake (Ace Hardware), Lowe's or Home Depot.

 

Did that long before I even found anything on the internet. Those places, at least Lowes and Home Depot, don't even have a single metric fitting.

 

get a block of alum.and tap it for your needs with the correct taps.

 

I would rather wait on the shipping from the UK than actually machine this part myself. Before I would do that, I would just switch sensor locations and see what thats about. Appears this is what I am doing tonight...

 

Autometer #2277

 

Thats the sender that came with the gauge. I was looking for a tee adapter...

 

put it in the passenger head.try autobarn.

 

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Wa...pter,8195.html

You're welcome

 

Let me clarify since my first post wasn't clear. I am using Autometer's Cylinder Head Temperature Gauge which comes with the short 1/8" x 27 NPT 1 wire sender. I am then using Autometer's metric adapter, 2277, M12 x 1.5 to 1/8" x 27 NPT. I have this plumbed to my passenger side head, installed and working, already.

The problem, accuracy. It is only reading 190F and I do not believe I have a 160* t-stat, unless (1) of the (2) previous owners already installed one. I used an infrared digital thermometer to measure external temps, and the stock unit was reading around 210-215F on the bulk head, which means I have a stock temperature t-stat because the external temps are usually +/- 5F from the actual readings. I do not have an OBD II hookup to read the computer and get actual computer data to verify.

I was going to run some tests, still am, just a little differently because I cannot find the adapter linked in the 1st post.

1. I am going to switch the position of the senders. This way my computer will still think that the car is up to temp and not dump fuel trying to warm up. This way I will get a reading from a hotter location on the Autometer unit, the DS front head. The front port should read hotter than the PS rear port due to the coolant flow path. I can go into more detail on that if someone is interested.

2. I am going to take my t-stat out and put it in a pot of water on the stove and measure the temperature of when it actually opens. This will confirm or deny whether or not I have a stock t-stat.

3. I am going to put the senders back in their original locations, stock up front on the DS head, and Autometer back on the PS rear port. Then I am going to drive to my dad's who has a Scan Gauge II unit and read the temps from the computer. I wish I could do this one first, but time is limited and I have other projects on the car I am working on this weekend.

4. If time, or tests allow, I am also going to move the Autometer or stock sender to the rubber coolant line coming from the crossover tubes to the radiator. This should also give me a hotter number.

The reason the PS rear port, in theory, may read lower is due to the coolant flow path. We have a traditional parallel flow. That means, coolant exits the water pump and goes into the block via both sides of the water pump. Notice, we have (4) water ports on the front of the block, (2) supply and (2) returns, (1) on each bank. The coolant flows around the sleeves, cylinder walls in my iron situation, and then proceeds up through the heads at each cylinder. The coolant travels back towards the front of the heads and goes back into the block and exits to the water pump through the opposite orifice and depending upon temperature, gets recycled or heads into the radiator.

The coolant that passes the rear port on the PS head has only been around the cylinder walls of the block and around combustion chamber 8. The coolant that passes the DS front port is a mixture of the coolant that has come from combustion chambers 7, 5, 3, 1 and the cylinder walls, so it will be warmer, as we all know, the real heat is from the heads surrounding the combustion chamber and exhaust ports, not so much from the cylinder walls/sleeves.

This confuses natural logic that has been instilled upon me. This contradicts the fact that cylinders 7 & 8 usually run hotter due to airflow around the engine, etc. So, I am going to do some tests. This is why I was looking for the T adapter, so I could hook up both the Autometer unit and stock unit in the DS front head port. I know that would read a little cooler due to the fact of a further distance from the coolant, but at the same time, higher than the PS rear port.

Thank you.

 

If anyone has it, it would be this place

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/

Page 92 of the catalog shows some adapters, you might have to call them

 

Yea, page 92 was a no go, but I will give them a call on Monday. Thanks

 

Ran some tests yesterday and today.

1. I pulled the thermostat out of the water pump and separated it from the housing. It is an 04 style GTO water pump that must have been replaced under warranty due to the fact of an LS2 style thermostat. Etched on the face was 86C, which is about 187F, so that right there told me it was a stock thermostat. I went ahead and put it in a pot on the stove. I tested it (3) times, 187F. It was not very fast acting, took quite a while to fully open. Even if I pulled the thermostat out, cooled it off, put it under some running warm water (140F), and then proceeded to put it in boiling water, it would still take the same amount of time to fully open. Closing on the other hand, very fast.

2. I didn't have time to swap the locations yesterday, so I bought some brass fittings and moved the Autometer sender up to the rubber line between the crossover and the radiator. This didn't measure accurately at all. I would assume minimal flow, lower temps, and the contact with the sender, due to the configuration, all had a hand in that.

3. This morning I pulled the wiring harness apart and pulled the stock sender wires out all the way back to cylinder 7. I then ran them across the intake and put the stock sending unit in the passenger read head port. I then extended the Autometer wire over to the driver side and put the Autometer unit in the stock unit's location, DS front head port. I wrapped everything up, cleanly installed the new wires in either new loom or the factory loom depending on routing and location. Autometer gauge was still reading around 190F. I am now starting to think that the sending unit is either not making good enough contact with the coolant, or the calibration is off entirely. I took it for a drive to see if I could get it to peak a little higher, went up maybe (2) degrees, MAX. The real confirmation will be tomorrow on my way home from work, which is when it is hottest outside and I drive the longest, and when I can meet up with my dad and put the Scan Gauge II on it. If the stock sending unit is showing 210F in the passenger rear port on the scan gauge, then I know the Autometer unit is out of calibration or not making enough contact with the coolant for proper thermal transfer.

I will go ahead and update when I get a hold of some more reliable data, either the gauge working tomorrow and/or a scan gauge reading of the stock unit in the PS rear head port. If need be, I will also put the sender on the stove and put my voltmeter across it and attempt to measure Ohms at various temperatures and see if they comply with anything else I can research or confirm with Autometer.

Thanks for reading the long post, if you have made it this far...

 

Did you ever find a solution? I am having same problems and have been searching for this tee as well.

 

Nope, this was a while ago but I think I ended up putting the stock sensor in the PS rear and the Autometer up front on the DS. Either way I don't remember if the results were accurate or if I put them back the way they were.