Engine rebuild part list
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
Engine rebuild part list I'm planning for an engine rebuild. I'll have new cam drop in. Most likely I'll be re-using the stock internal. What should I replace? Also, where is a good place to order new piston ring? Please list all the gasket, bearing and small stuff also. Thanx alot
Rod bearings
Main bearings
Piston rings
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal
Rear cover gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Head gasket (2)
Gally cover gasket
Rocker cover "O" ring gasket
Intake manifold "O" ring gasket (8)
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Head bolts
Main bolts
Rod bolts
Crank pully bolt
I would also replace the lifters, lifter trays, oil pump, timing chain. Take the block and heads to your machine shop to have the block honed and decks checked. Have the heads vacume tested.
Main bearings
Piston rings
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal
Rear cover gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Head gasket (2)
Gally cover gasket
Rocker cover "O" ring gasket
Intake manifold "O" ring gasket (8)
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Head bolts
Main bolts
Rod bolts
Crank pully bolt
I would also replace the lifters, lifter trays, oil pump, timing chain. Take the block and heads to your machine shop to have the block honed and decks checked. Have the heads vacume tested.
Rod bearings
Main bearings
Piston rings
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal
Rear cover gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Head gasket (2)
Gally cover gasket
Rocker cover "O" ring gasket
Intake manifold "O" ring gasket (8)
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Head bolts
Main bolts
Rod bolts
Crank pully bolt
I would also replace the lifters, lifter trays, oil pump, timing chain. Take the block and heads to your machine shop to have the block honed and decks checked. Have the heads vacume tested.
Main bearings
Piston rings
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal
Rear cover gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Head gasket (2)
Gally cover gasket
Rocker cover "O" ring gasket
Intake manifold "O" ring gasket (8)
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Head bolts
Main bolts
Rod bolts
Crank pully bolt
I would also replace the lifters, lifter trays, oil pump, timing chain. Take the block and heads to your machine shop to have the block honed and decks checked. Have the heads vacume tested.
I would do rod bearings if the engine is out and apart. Also I let my machine shop polish the crank when I'm refreshing a engine. When I built my forged SB texas speed put together a engine gasket kit for me so you could give them a buzz and see what they have to offer as well.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
After almost a year wait, it finally time to start the build. One question, which brand you guys recommended for the main bearing, rod bearing and piston ring?
I'm new to rebuilding LS motors but have 30 years experience with building gen. 1 small blocks. I'm in the middle of rebuilding a 2000 5.7 that I bought from a member on here. It had 90k on it and it had about .007 piston to wall clearance so I'm boring it .010 and putting Speed Pro ZH868CP25mm pistons in as well. I don't know how many miles yours has but you will want to make sure yours isn't too loose or you'll have the dreaded piston slap. My pistons were not the later coated ones and had visible scuffing on the major thrust sides. The Speed Pro replacements are coated and are only about $220.
I'm using Clevite CB663P rod bearings and MS2199P mains. I've always had good luck with Sealed Power Speed Pro rings as well. I'm using ARP rod bolts and GM head, main and balancer bolts.
I bought Texas Speed's stage 2.5 5.3 heads for a little compression boost and their 233 - 239 112 LSA cam, 7.4" pushrods (stock are weak) and ported oil pump. They also supplied a gasket and head bolt/balancer bolt package for a reasonable price.
Good luck with your build and let us know how you make out.
Jim
I'm using Clevite CB663P rod bearings and MS2199P mains. I've always had good luck with Sealed Power Speed Pro rings as well. I'm using ARP rod bolts and GM head, main and balancer bolts.
I bought Texas Speed's stage 2.5 5.3 heads for a little compression boost and their 233 - 239 112 LSA cam, 7.4" pushrods (stock are weak) and ported oil pump. They also supplied a gasket and head bolt/balancer bolt package for a reasonable price.
Good luck with your build and let us know how you make out.
Jim
I don't know if Clevite is puting silicon in their bearings or not but I know King Bearing is . It's really just a matter of preferance ,,,,,,most engine part brands have been around a while and proven themselves time and again . Good luck
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
Pretty much I'll go for new forged piston and rod. I'm not sure to go with Calico or Clevite bearing. I'll send all the bearing and ring for a cryo treatment anyway, hope that helps the life span.
Anyone try the new DSS EXTREME Forged Piston Sets and piston ring from Speed Inc? Looks like that's a very affordable upgrade.
Anyone try the new DSS EXTREME Forged Piston Sets and piston ring from Speed Inc? Looks like that's a very affordable upgrade.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
I bought this 02 LS1 short block with 98000 miles as a core to start my build. My original plan is new forge pistons, new forge rods and old stock crank. After clean up all the pistons, they actually look pretty damn good. My friend suggest me re-use those pistons and go with a set of Total Seal piston ring, save the piston money for better ring as those are critical item.
Will you guys suggest to re-use those pistons? My motor will not see boost or NOS. My goal is 420-450rwhp with head, cam and full bolt-on.
Will you guys suggest to re-use those pistons? My motor will not see boost or NOS. My goal is 420-450rwhp with head, cam and full bolt-on.
Yeah, $420. is probably the cheapest forged piston you're going to find but I doubt your going to get any feedback on quality. You're also going to need a $440. set of aftermarket rods to use them. At your planned power level with no power adders, I don't think you need forged pistons.
As I said before, if you reuse your stock pistons, be sure to check the piston to wall clearance. At 90K mine was excessive. If your cam has less then about 235 degrees duration at .050 lift, the coated, Speed Pro hyperutetic flat tops will give you adequate valve to piston clearance. Have your block cleaned, bored and honed with a torque plate and install new cam bearings. then you can reuse the stock rods with just new ARP bolts. My $.02
Jim
As I said before, if you reuse your stock pistons, be sure to check the piston to wall clearance. At 90K mine was excessive. If your cam has less then about 235 degrees duration at .050 lift, the coated, Speed Pro hyperutetic flat tops will give you adequate valve to piston clearance. Have your block cleaned, bored and honed with a torque plate and install new cam bearings. then you can reuse the stock rods with just new ARP bolts. My $.02
Jim
Probe offers FPS forged pistons for about $400 and they're meant for the stock connecting rods with the larger pin, pn P2600F. No need to buy aftermerket rods.
If you're going to use the stock rods with ARP bolts, have the rods resized and use the correct Clevite 1776-P bearing.
If you're going to use the stock rods with ARP bolts, have the rods resized and use the correct Clevite 1776-P bearing.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
I've a small a$$ cam 224/230. It'll go with ported 5.3 head, fast 90/90, full bolt-on, pacesetter LT and full cat-back, maybe add water injection for safety and future upgrade. Down the road if N/A is not enough, I might change the head to 6.0 and drop a supercharger then call it a day.
Power is not really the most important concern to me, I just want it last. The junkyard said the core has 98k mile but they've no way to verify it. So change the stock rod to Scat I-beam rod just to add some insurance.
Yea, I'll replace every single bearing. About the rod bearing I've some questions, what's the difference between the clevite H and P bearing? Also, how do I know what size bearing I should order? I suppose to have my machine shop service the old crank and measure everything b4 I should order the bearing right.
Power is not really the most important concern to me, I just want it last. The junkyard said the core has 98k mile but they've no way to verify it. So change the stock rod to Scat I-beam rod just to add some insurance.
Yea, I'll replace every single bearing. About the rod bearing I've some questions, what's the difference between the clevite H and P bearing? Also, how do I know what size bearing I should order? I suppose to have my machine shop service the old crank and measure everything b4 I should order the bearing right.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
I'm trying to keep my shopping list within $1000-1500. I wanna see within that budget what's the most parts I can replace, of course in good aftermarket parts instead of stock one.
Yea, I'll replace every single bearing. About the rod bearing I've some questions, what's the difference between the clevite H and P bearing? Also, how do I know what size bearing I should order? I suppose to have my machine shop service the old crank and measure everything b4 I should order the bearing right.
As far as the bearing clearance, you could order a .001" under bearing first, have the machine shop measure the inside diameter of the bearings when they're torqued in the rod and main bores, and then have the crank ground down to a smaller diameter to get exact bearing clearance you want.
Your other option is to try several sets of bearings sizes until you find a set that is close enough. It may be easy and work out perfectly with STD size bearings, or you may have to mix and match STD's and X's. Unless you work at a shop that stocks all of these bearings, I think its more time and cost effective to order one set and grind the crank down.
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
Looks like my friend has some hook up on Wiseco pistons. The part K398x3905 is for 6.125 rod. If I get that with some Scat 6.125 rod, they'll still fit with my stock crank right?
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From: >>>_FRISCO_MUSCLE_<<<
I'm still searching for parts (searching for great deal 
) and have a question about piston bore size. When look at the piston bore size for stock LS1 block, there's 3.902, 3.903 and 3.905. Which one I should go? My block didn't send to machine shop to service yet. Should I wait til they finish cleaning, honing and such then I can order the right size? Let say if I order 3.903 now, will that be any problem if the bore ended up 3.905?
) and have a question about piston bore size. When look at the piston bore size for stock LS1 block, there's 3.902, 3.903 and 3.905. Which one I should go? My block didn't send to machine shop to service yet. Should I wait til they finish cleaning, honing and such then I can order the right size? Let say if I order 3.903 now, will that be any problem if the bore ended up 3.905? 
There is also about $500 to $800 worth of tools...micrometers, torque wrenches, etc...that you'll need if you plan to assemble the engine.
