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TR230 in a 6.0 LQ9

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Old 09-07-2010, 08:51 PM
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I have ridden in a 222 and 224 cammed cars, I would say their low end is similar to stock. Any bigger and you start sacrificing pretty good. Thats why on websites it will say 3200 converter is recommended.
Old 09-07-2010, 09:03 PM
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With all due respect a free flowing exhaust produces MORE TORQUE AND HP EVERYWHERE!!!! Somebody please explain to me how back pressure (RESTRICTION) produces better lowend torque.

You want the largest primary that flows enough to scavenge ALL spent exhaust gas and create high velocity and still maintain zero back pressure.......!!!

BTW that cam should be real strong on the bottom so I do not think it is your issue. I ran a 230/234 111+2 on my old 346 and it gave up zero down low and gained big on top over my stocker. 10.8-1 on my first set of heads and 11.2 on the TFS.....
Old 09-07-2010, 09:46 PM
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SOM I think I have some tuning issues then, the car isnt completely ball less and maybe I am just use to the power by now and need more!!!!!! I have a friend with an 01 Z06 (385 HP Version) that I take out and get to drive back and forth to work if I am working on my car and I just think it has more low end pull than mine, but when it comes to pulling higher rpms I can feel his car running out of steam early where mine doesnt. I use to drive it when my car was a 224 cammed and 3200 stalled auto and when I would get out of his and back into mine I would think mine is sooooo slow, but I dont anymore I just think mine could do better down low where I drive it 75% of the time. Dunno, need to get the tune looked at I think and maybe Damian can chime in if he get the time to glance at it.


Sorry mike I really dont wanna go smaller just yet but where in texas are you?
Old 09-07-2010, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SOMbitch
With all due respect a free flowing exhaust produces MORE TORQUE AND HP EVERYWHERE!!!! Somebody please explain to me how back pressure (RESTRICTION) produces better lowend torque.
Say what you want, I ran the Hedman stepped headers. They produced so much torque that my converter would stall about 500 rpms higher then it was supposed to. I switched to a 1 3/4 header and I felt like 20 horses on the top end (above 5k). I lost a lot of midrange and low end though. And, my converter tightened up significantly. And as most know, more torque input is what makes a converter stall more/higher. Air flow in an engine is about velocity, too big of heads, intake, or exhaust can cause your car to perform worse. And that's a fact.
Old 09-08-2010, 10:15 AM
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A properly set up 228/232 is not going to give up TQ compared to smaller or stock cams. That cam is the sweet spot for 5.7L-6.0L engines IMO for the best overall driveability and tq EVERYWHERE. I should know, I've install 50+ of them.

Beedo, I'm on vacation and forgot that I didn't bring my tuning laptop with me. When I get back on Saturday night I'll take a look at it for you.
Old 09-08-2010, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Say what you want, I ran the Hedman stepped headers. They produced so much torque that my converter would stall about 500 rpms higher then it was supposed to. I switched to a 1 3/4 header and I felt like 20 horses on the top end (above 5k). I lost a lot of midrange and low end though. And, my converter tightened up significantly. And as most know, more torque input is what makes a converter stall more/higher. Air flow in an engine is about velocity, too big of heads, intake, or exhaust can cause your car to perform worse. And that's a fact.
It could be that the stepped headers stopped some reversion, created more low end power, since thats where a cammed car is going to have reversion. Its not about the flow, its flow in the right directions. Theres a LOT about exhaust flow and tuning that most don't know. I'm one of them.
Old 09-08-2010, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
I have ridden in a 222 and 224 cammed cars, I would say their low end is similar to stock. Any bigger and you start sacrificing pretty good. Thats why on websites it will say 3200 converter is recommended.
A 222 or 224 cam is going to add lots of torque and low end compared to a stock car. At 3000 rpm a stock LS1 makes about 170-175rwtq and a tr224 cammed car will make around 205rwtq. Damian is right, a 228 cam will not give anything up, especially with the added ci of the 6.0L.
Old 09-08-2010, 07:09 PM
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it's cool, Im in Lake Jackson about 45 min south of houston towards the beach

So do you think my cam is to small for my set up 6.0 224/224 3.73 and a 3000 circle D and lt's in a 2000 rcsb best time 13.8 @98

I GUESS I SHOULD START MY OWN THREAD
Old 09-09-2010, 12:03 AM
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I can't remember stock hp/torque curves vs some aftermarket cam curves, but if medium cams gave up nothing or added torque, there wouldn't be a need for big converters or short gears. If I could honestly remember what a stock LS1 drove like I could use that as a point but it's been so long hell I can't hardly remember.

Picture this: a stock cam/stock converter auto

vs.

A 228r cam car with the smallest converter possible that would allow it to not push through the brakes

Race to 40mph.....My money is on the stock camm'd car.
Old 09-09-2010, 01:08 PM
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Medium cams don't "require" short gears, and stall converters are usually recommended so the driveability won't be affected. Yes a 228/232 will more than likely try to pull through the stock stall slightly, but that has nothing to do with it making less low end TQ than a stock cam. Not sure where you're trying to go with this argument but it isn't working at all. lol

I install that 228/232 in cars all the time with stock geared 10 bolts, makes power everywhere.

A stock cam/converter car would get WASTED by a 228 cammed/stalled car from a 40 roll. It wouldn't even be close.
Old 09-09-2010, 03:29 PM
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Damian, I am really leaning toward a tuning issue....I hope! I am also no idiot and really havent paid much attention to a few posts on here. Just want to get this figured out one way or another? There is no way I am going to start putting factory **** back on my car either, thanks for the help so far guys!
Old 09-09-2010, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Damian
Yes a 228/232 will more than likely try to pull through the stock stall slightly,
Based on this^^^

Originally Posted by Damian
A stock cam/converter car would get WASTED by a 228 cammed/ non stalled car from a 40 roll. It wouldn't even be close.
Your equation should have been this^^^ (bold is the corrected)

And I still stand behind the stock car winning to 30-40 mph. The top of first gear basically. It would be cool to arrange this or do a before and after on a single car.


Originally Posted by Damian
I install that 228/232 in cars all the time with stock geared 10 bolts, makes power everywhere.
Interesting
Old 09-09-2010, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Based on this^^^



Your equation should have been this^^^ (bold is the corrected)

And I still stand behind the stock car winning to 30-40 mph. The top of first gear basically. It would be cool to arrange this or do a before and after on a single car.




Interesting
You would lose this bet very badly. Stock cam, stock stall you're looking at 2.0 60' times. Install a 3500 stall and it will drop to 1.70 or so. Now install a 228R and it will drop to 1.59. No way you're getting to 40mph faster without cutting a faster 60' time...NO WAY!
Old 09-09-2010, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by beedo
Damian, I am really leaning toward a tuning issue....I hope! I am also no idiot and really havent paid much attention to a few posts on here. Just want to get this figured out one way or another? There is no way I am going to start putting factory **** back on my car either, thanks for the help so far guys!
I'll be able to look @ the tune either Sat or Sunday. Are you still using the 98 PCM?
Old 09-09-2010, 11:03 PM
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Thats fine, I appreciate you just looking at it at all! Yes i am using the 98 PCM, I did start digging deeper into the engine tonight and started checking the compression. I was only able to get 3 cylinders done because its late and I am pooped! Anyway results are not what I expected, I am running 165 on 2 and 170 on another. I checked 1,2, and 3 cylinders and I expected a bit higher than that. I am looking around trying to figure out what stock is so I will have something to compare it too. I am not sure what it should be with the camshaft that is in it right now, and if the cam is bleeding some cylinder pressure away. I had the heads milled .020 so I thought that would raise the static compression to 10.5 but all the compression calculators I have been plugging number into are showing 10.2-10.3, I may have figured wrong when I built the engine...........Back to reading, LOL!
Old 09-09-2010, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ss454327
You would lose this bet very badly. Stock cam, stock stall you're looking at 2.0 60' times. Install a 3500 stall and it will drop to 1.70 or so. Now install a 228R and it will drop to 1.59. No way you're getting to 40mph faster without cutting a faster 60' time...NO WAY!
Do you have a stall? Do you have a cam? I specifically was NOT talking about a fully modded car. I never mentioned any other mods. I simply said one with a stock cam, one with a 228 cam (no stall) or higher if you like in a race through first gear, where low rpm torque propels the car. No one even began to mention 3500 stalls. I think you missed the whole point. And for the record, give a stock car a stall with any ***** on street tires and you wont break the 2.0 barrier either. Reason being: traction. My 4k converter bust the tires loose at anything under 4k through second gear (usually about 50 mph) on dry pavement. On wet pavement, it'll bust em at 75 mph. Its hard for even drag radials to hook on the street or track. Case in point: I have seen bolton/camm'd LS1s get drug in the 1/8 mile by basically stock auto LT1s. Stock stall hits the gas and your gone, big converter or M6 means you are trying to feather out of the hole to keep from roasting them to the 1/8. talking is wasted effort....watch:

Close lane is a LT1 Vert (heavy) with only 4.10 gears/no other mods/225k miles
Far lane is a bolt on camm'd LS1 with 4.10s/textrailia clutch/fullexhaust/ls6 intake etc etc.
I know these cars because I personally modded both of them. They raced half a dozen times and the outcome was about the same every time. No one in their right mind would have seen an upset like that coming.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ypL7YhUwdI
My point is made.....

Last edited by 01ssreda4; 09-09-2010 at 11:08 PM.
Old 09-09-2010, 11:13 PM
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Can you start your own ******* thread about who's dick is bigger, I am trying to get some help here and you are cluttering up the damn thread. No one ******* cares!





My point is made....................
Old 09-09-2010, 11:42 PM
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Jeez get bent out of shape for someone trying to help you???
Old 09-09-2010, 11:52 PM
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No the thread is almost 2 ful pages now and who wants to read over that many pages. Guess I am frustrated, my appologies man. OK I checked the entire drivers side and # 2 on the pass side. I did 4 complete revolutions per cylinder and the results SUCK 150-155 on ALL 5 cylinders I checked. I did a search and seems with cams of the same duration it should be 180-190 at least. Any suggestions?
Old 09-10-2010, 12:19 AM
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We are refering to a compression check eh? 150 aint too hot for that.


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