completely stock 98 a4 needing some lope to the idle
#1
completely stock 98 a4 needing some lope to the idle
I've got a bone stock 98 a4 w/3.23 rear. this car is just a cruiser. I need enough cam to give it some chop to the idle, but don't want to change the converter. the car has stock manifolds still on it and I have acces to efi live. any ideas?
#5
actually the cam that I am really kicking around the idea of is the edelbrock 2215. it's 220/224-510/510-111. I just don't want something that slams too hard when you pull the car in gear or has idle issues.
Last edited by sr71; 09-12-2010 at 07:54 PM.
#6
The 6.0 I'm building has a 220/224 .581/.581 112 + 0, XER lobes. I should have it running with in a week or two, if you can wait that long.
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#8
A stalled car transforms the car into a whole new animal.
Just my .02
RJT
#9
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You won't regret a stall, doing a cam and stall at the same time will make you feel like the first time you drove your car home.
Forgot, I have a SY4000 for sale too. One of the best street highway stalls will good track ability. Only reason for selling is to get more stall!
Forgot, I have a SY4000 for sale too. One of the best street highway stalls will good track ability. Only reason for selling is to get more stall!
#10
You won't regret a stall, doing a cam and stall at the same time will make you feel like the first time you drove your car home.
Forgot, I have a SY4000 for sale too. One of the best street highway stalls will good track ability. Only reason for selling is to get more stall!
Forgot, I have a SY4000 for sale too. One of the best street highway stalls will good track ability. Only reason for selling is to get more stall!
Do you think I could benefit from going from 3600 stall on a 2.5 str to a 4000 on a 2.5 str? My car isn't my daily driver, just a weekend cruiser. I've been debating on rather or not to step up to 4k. Mileage isn't an issue.
Thanks.
#13
the 98 used to be modded heavily too...afr's, tsp231/237, yank ss4000 and moser 12 bolt. I am well aware of what a converter will do. I just want this car to sound good. the gf will be driving it alot and she doesn't need more power.
#14
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if you want a nice car get a good cam (sounds like you might be a prime customer for a Comp Thumpr cam) and at least a 3200 stall
if you want to be a poser and impress people who don't matter, just pick any cam you want but don't expect to enjoy it pushing through brakes, not stopping as well, and being slow as **** from a stop
if you want to be a poser and impress people who don't matter, just pick any cam you want but don't expect to enjoy it pushing through brakes, not stopping as well, and being slow as **** from a stop
#15
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I have the XR265HR from Comp- specs are 212/218 .522/.529 on a 114 lsa. Good cam for stock converter, stock manifolds, stock tune. I have some tuning on it and it sounds just like how I want it too. Nice hp gain throughout the rpm range with gobs of torque everywhere else. With the stock tune I noticed some lope to it as well. Real good street/cruiser cam, superchevy has a comparison of this a a couple other comp cams.
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For the record, I think a poser is more like someone who wants a donkey dick cammed car making 450rwhp, that falls on its face around town and stumbles and sputters and shakes the earth, that's a poser Someone who wants a street car setup for longetivity and drivability, without headers, and without sticky tires, is just a cruiser kind of guy imo, not a poser. Stalls are crap btw without traction. Some people don't want drs and some don't really want to spin to 7000 for their engine OR their tranny. You want a donkey dick cam that spins to 7000, try more cubes
Small cams with stock converters work great while maintaining GMs intended street manners, which I like. Converters and large cams destroy **** (like 4l60es) and for someone like me who doesn't race or rarely sees above 5500 rpm, why the hell would I want a huge duration/lift cam> ? It necessitates the use of a stall, which necessitates the upgrade of your trans, which means sticky tires and new 12 bolt (at least)? I don't get it, unless of course this is a strip car with max effort in mind or you race often. I prefer just a nice increase in power/tq everywhere in my usable rpm range, with NO losses of power/tq anywhere. This works for me, is sublte since the lope is controllable and I have no headers, and it was nice to use the stock stall actually. I have driven and rode in many fbody combos, and the one mentioned works for me, so don't bother telling me how much more I want a stall. I do not, nor do I want stickies. Stalls are fun don't get my wrong, and IF my trans fails, that's when the built a4 w/converter goes in, not before, not for me. Funny how sometimes it seems so many people want to mod the same way on here, regardless of application (what the vehicle is needed/used for mostly). Some of us want more lope/power, maintain cornering ability (what little there already is ), and maintain a few of our drivetrain parts too maybe You have to concede that a large cam with higher revs etc and large stall will kill the tranny faster than just a mild cam, stock revs, and stock stall- if both were fitted with a cooler especially. Longetivity is also something that younger guys with "max effort" in mind overlook, and don't really care about frankly lol. But some of us do care about how long it will last, and only run light to light, if at all!
Wanting a street car that has a little extra grunt without the noise levels of headers and cutouts, and without the wear and tear of higher stalls and huge cams and sticky tires, I get it. Guess I could have said what everyone else did, but that's just not the only way to see it in my opinion.
Small cams with stock converters work great while maintaining GMs intended street manners, which I like. Converters and large cams destroy **** (like 4l60es) and for someone like me who doesn't race or rarely sees above 5500 rpm, why the hell would I want a huge duration/lift cam> ? It necessitates the use of a stall, which necessitates the upgrade of your trans, which means sticky tires and new 12 bolt (at least)? I don't get it, unless of course this is a strip car with max effort in mind or you race often. I prefer just a nice increase in power/tq everywhere in my usable rpm range, with NO losses of power/tq anywhere. This works for me, is sublte since the lope is controllable and I have no headers, and it was nice to use the stock stall actually. I have driven and rode in many fbody combos, and the one mentioned works for me, so don't bother telling me how much more I want a stall. I do not, nor do I want stickies. Stalls are fun don't get my wrong, and IF my trans fails, that's when the built a4 w/converter goes in, not before, not for me. Funny how sometimes it seems so many people want to mod the same way on here, regardless of application (what the vehicle is needed/used for mostly). Some of us want more lope/power, maintain cornering ability (what little there already is ), and maintain a few of our drivetrain parts too maybe You have to concede that a large cam with higher revs etc and large stall will kill the tranny faster than just a mild cam, stock revs, and stock stall- if both were fitted with a cooler especially. Longetivity is also something that younger guys with "max effort" in mind overlook, and don't really care about frankly lol. But some of us do care about how long it will last, and only run light to light, if at all!
Wanting a street car that has a little extra grunt without the noise levels of headers and cutouts, and without the wear and tear of higher stalls and huge cams and sticky tires, I get it. Guess I could have said what everyone else did, but that's just not the only way to see it in my opinion.
Last edited by oddwraith; 09-13-2010 at 11:05 AM.