Tick noise after cam and head install
#22
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I don't know if I should answer this because it will sound like I am being an *** but I have already stated I am.
Its usually the tougher springs that require a hardened pushrod not a cam.
Think about it, the distance it travels is not going to affect the structure of the rod, the pressure is a different matter though. I already used tougher springs with stock push rods and didn't have an issue.
Please correct me if I am wrong but I don't like to upgrade because someone trolling wanted to put in their 2 cents without data to provide.
STOP TROLLING
Its usually the tougher springs that require a hardened pushrod not a cam.
Think about it, the distance it travels is not going to affect the structure of the rod, the pressure is a different matter though. I already used tougher springs with stock push rods and didn't have an issue.
Please correct me if I am wrong but I don't like to upgrade because someone trolling wanted to put in their 2 cents without data to provide.
STOP TROLLING
#24
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I have a question along the same lines, I installed a TSP 228r cam, LS1 lifters, .041 fel-pro gaskets, and a pair of 806 heads that have been surfaced but not milled. This should make the pushrods shorter than stock since TSP recommends 7.400 with that cam. I measured it to 7.390, so I went ahead and used the hardened 7.400 that I already had. Now, the rockers are "loose" when the spring is not compressed, I can move them side to side on the trunion. Is that supposed to happen, or did I f up measuring and actually need a longer pushrod for proper preload on the lifters.
#25
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I have a question along the same lines, I installed a TSP 228r cam, LS1 lifters, .041 fel-pro gaskets, and a pair of 806 heads that have been surfaced but not milled. This should make the pushrods shorter than stock since TSP recommends 7.400 with that cam. I measured it to 7.390, so I went ahead and used the hardened 7.400 that I already had. Now, the rockers are "loose" when the spring is not compressed, I can move them side to side on the trunion. Is that supposed to happen, or did I f up measuring and actually need a longer pushrod for proper preload on the lifters.
Makes sense send the expansion and compression of the metal. I think personally since I used thread lock on the intake rocker bolts I should just do so with the exhaust bolts as well.
#26
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Beehive springs. CFM was the porter of my heads and installed the new stainless steel oversized valves (2.02 and 1.6), with new retainers, locks, seals, and the springs.
He says the can support up to .620 lift and said the xer251hr cam was a great fit for my head setup.
I asked about the rods and rocker arms, he said unless I already have an issue or if I throw nitrous on top of it to leave them as is.
He says the can support up to .620 lift and said the xer251hr cam was a great fit for my head setup.
I asked about the rods and rocker arms, he said unless I already have an issue or if I throw nitrous on top of it to leave them as is.
#27
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ok if the springs can support 620 lift and are behives,then they probably have a good amount of seat pressure when fully opened,and the stock pushrods are only good for ls6 valve springs max.They will for sure bend the first time you hit the rev limiter.Good ones are only 100 bucks and will save you some possible damage to your setup.Xer lobes and oversized valves are just going to stress those stockers even more.
#28
Scorpion roller rockers
I just did a comp cam two weeks ago. 54-444-11 cam
224/230 duration
581/592 lift
114 LSA
also did comp cam 918 beehive springs
chrome moly stock length push rods
I did scorpion roller rockers. They are really nice and I really like them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyZq0sh-bh8
224/230 duration
581/592 lift
114 LSA
also did comp cam 918 beehive springs
chrome moly stock length push rods
I did scorpion roller rockers. They are really nice and I really like them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyZq0sh-bh8
#29
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I just did a comp cam two weeks ago. 54-444-11 cam
224/230 duration
581/592 lift
114 LSA
also did comp cam 918 beehive springs
chrome moly stock length push rods
I did scorpion roller rockers. They are really nice and I really like them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyZq0sh-bh8
224/230 duration
581/592 lift
114 LSA
also did comp cam 918 beehive springs
chrome moly stock length push rods
I did scorpion roller rockers. They are really nice and I really like them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyZq0sh-bh8
Good to hear your data. I think I will do the same thing with roller rockers and pushrods. Thanks!
#31
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I had the same problem with one of my exhaust rockers. Some of the old school guys that I talked to said they always torque twice. Once during installation then they go back over any bolts (studs apparently they don't). So that means rocker arm bolts, head bolts and header bolts.
Makes sense send the expansion and compression of the metal. I think personally since I used thread lock on the intake rocker bolts I should just do so with the exhaust bolts as well.
Makes sense send the expansion and compression of the metal. I think personally since I used thread lock on the intake rocker bolts I should just do so with the exhaust bolts as well.
#32
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I have heard on the converse side of this though that the trunion upgrade is what prevents the bearings from exploding into your upper area of the head. One other commented that he just tack welded the trunion bearing to ensure it couldn't come out the side. So what we are seeing is probably normal its just that when real high horse power is added to some old rocker bearings you might get them to pop right out.
Thoughts anyone?
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yeah its normal.the lifters bleed down and allow a little "slack" in the valvetrain,which allows you to be able to move the rockers a little.The Stock rocker trunion upgrade is a good idea,but not a big deal,many people are still running bone stock rockers without a problem.
#34
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@ TDC valves closed Set your valves to zero lash they torque your rockers to 22lbs you should be min 3/4 of a turn max 1 1/2 turns some run 2 turns.(@ zero lash put a dab of paint @ 12 oclock on the bolt makes it a lot easier to count the amount of turns.)
Check ur lash and then please order some good push rods.
Check ur lash and then please order some good push rods.
#36
Yes I did. There are some on ls1.com that bad mouth the crap out of them but I think they were worth every penny. Or dollar...344 of them. Don't buy direct from manufacturer, you can but they are 100 buck more, try site vendor.
#37
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Putting mine on this weekend with some chromemoly's. Found my push rods took 1 and 3/4 of a turn to spec so I broke out the push rod checker and found that i needed 7.375 (which includes a .050 preload for me).
For inquiring minds, I found this on the net in several places (so makes it true right ) that the tollerance for preload on stock ls1 lifters is .020 to .060. So that is why you see .050 as a preload amount to add to your push rod check.
Scorpion recommends to not add preload because of clearance issues. But if you do a piston to valve clearance check then it is a-ok to add preload. I personally had to fly cut my pistons to do this.
BTW lindytools.com is the best solution for flycutting your own pistons at home! Great guy to call up and ask some questions too about the process. Very helpful!
For inquiring minds, I found this on the net in several places (so makes it true right ) that the tollerance for preload on stock ls1 lifters is .020 to .060. So that is why you see .050 as a preload amount to add to your push rod check.
Scorpion recommends to not add preload because of clearance issues. But if you do a piston to valve clearance check then it is a-ok to add preload. I personally had to fly cut my pistons to do this.
BTW lindytools.com is the best solution for flycutting your own pistons at home! Great guy to call up and ask some questions too about the process. Very helpful!