Sounds Like a Rod Knocking
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Teching In
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Sounds Like a Rod Knocking Here's the setup: Stock 2001 Vette, 133k miles (not a garage queen). Car was running fine. Stopped for gas and afterwards, it wouldn't start. Good battery, but no crank, no push start. Had it towed home on a flatbed.
Pulled codes and got the Passkey code (B2723). On my kids F-bodies, I had the same issue, and was able to bypass the pellet with a resistor of the same value, so I tried this with the Vette. Started right up, but now there is a knocking that sounds like a rod. Was not knocking before the tow. Oil pressure is at 50+ pounds. Could the tow have caused an issue, or is it just coincidence?
Thanks
Pulled codes and got the Passkey code (B2723). On my kids F-bodies, I had the same issue, and was able to bypass the pellet with a resistor of the same value, so I tried this with the Vette. Started right up, but now there is a knocking that sounds like a rod. Was not knocking before the tow. Oil pressure is at 50+ pounds. Could the tow have caused an issue, or is it just coincidence?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Are you a dick? No, its not a joke. The rod was not knocking prior to having it towed. I was thinking maybe the oil in the pan got trapped behind a baffle when the car was going up the ramp. I would appreciate a educated response from someone, not sarcasm. I joined this forum to get assistance from educated people, not wisecracks from keyboard crewchiefs.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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The rod was not knocking when I stopped for gas. The car has easy miles on it, mostly under 2000 RPM. I see no reason why the rod would start knocking after being towed either, but something made it start.
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If you drive your car easy all the time it will build up some serious carbon on the pistons. If a piece breaks off it will knock like hell. DO THIS....take the car out for a drive and run it hard, If its carbon it will clear up. If its a rod bearing it will just get worse quickly. You got NOTHING to lose and everything to gain and listen RELAX!
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thanks for the replies. So I'm thinking that with 133k miles, I should go ahead and replace all of the rod bearings, wrist pin bushings, and timing chain. What about mains? Can I do this without removing the engine from the car?
My car has over 200k miles and runs pretty much tip-top, valve covers have never been lifted. So as long as it's been properly maintained then I don't think that high mileage has anything to do with your problem.
This may be a stupid question, but have you checked to see if anything may have gotten too close to the fan? How rapid is the knocking?
This may be a stupid question, but have you checked to see if anything may have gotten too close to the fan? How rapid is the knocking?
Can you post a vid of this rod knock noise?
To post this problem and diagnose/troubleshoot is kinda of a crap shoot, shot in the dark IMO.
It might be as simple as a bad batch of gas you got from the gas station.
To post this problem and diagnose/troubleshoot is kinda of a crap shoot, shot in the dark IMO.
It might be as simple as a bad batch of gas you got from the gas station.
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From: Euless Tx
If you drive your car easy all the time it will build up some serious carbon on the pistons. If a piece breaks off it will knock like hell. DO THIS....take the car out for a drive and run it hard, If its carbon it will clear up. If its a rod bearing it will just get worse quickly. You got NOTHING to lose and everything to gain and listen RELAX!
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anyone else wanna take me on bring it!
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I've been doing this a very long time. I've bought vehicles at auction that had engine knocks. Standard test is take um for a hard drive...either gonna get worse or alot better if its carbon. I've seen MANY MANY new engines tore down and cranks and bearing replaced because of carbon knocks.....it so freakin common...BUT I DON"T KNOW ****!