More LS1 RPM please?
11-21-2010, 03:04 PM
#21
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I would say an overall upgrade will be needed for prolonged runs up really high. I understand that the HP up high is not what u are concerned with, just spinning her. I would recommend a bottom end build as well tho just to fret on the safe side...
If u just want to spin the hell out of the thing that just getting a good top end component setup would be the ticket. Hardened push rods, rockers, GOOD springs, litters, etc... The stock cam along with all of the components will turn the RPM u need, but won't make power much after 5900 or so. That will get you your desired RPM range, but u will be running on a ticking time bomb...
How long will your bottom end hold while pushing 7k for prolonged periods of time??? 1k miles... 20kkk? Who knows, but it's going to end bad even if your tune is damn good.
Have u considered gearing changes??? Instead of needing more RPM to sustain power through a corner, how about changing the gearing to accommodate, and allow you to keep your engine in the 6000-6200RPM range(or lower). That way you will be stressing the bottom less, and you will be keeping your car closer to is peak with the stock cam and a good top end setup.
Just a thought... But either way I'd say at least get a good rotating assembly.
If u just want to spin the hell out of the thing that just getting a good top end component setup would be the ticket. Hardened push rods, rockers, GOOD springs, litters, etc... The stock cam along with all of the components will turn the RPM u need, but won't make power much after 5900 or so. That will get you your desired RPM range, but u will be running on a ticking time bomb...
How long will your bottom end hold while pushing 7k for prolonged periods of time??? 1k miles... 20kkk? Who knows, but it's going to end bad even if your tune is damn good.
Have u considered gearing changes??? Instead of needing more RPM to sustain power through a corner, how about changing the gearing to accommodate, and allow you to keep your engine in the 6000-6200RPM range(or lower). That way you will be stressing the bottom less, and you will be keeping your car closer to is peak with the stock cam and a good top end setup.
Just a thought... But either way I'd say at least get a good rotating assembly.
11-21-2010, 03:22 PM
#22
if you have a limit on power also consider 5.3 engines,they are cheap and plentiful.what oil pan and oil catch can are you using?also go to hardcore LS1 ,there are some great racing minds there.
11-21-2010, 03:35 PM
#23
The stock rockers are very strong and very light. They have one weakness, and that is the trunion setup which can fail (spits out needle bearings). You can fix the weakness with a trunion upgrade.
If you go to aftermarket heads with bronze valve guides or a different valvetrain geometry you might need aftermarket rockers, but based on this discussion so far I do not think heads are in your upgrade path.
Last edited by Darkman; 11-21-2010 at 03:59 PM. Reason: spelling
11-21-2010, 03:41 PM
#24
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The 5.3 is interesting, it has some really cool aspects. I just wanted to stay with the ls1 cause I have it. I am running the stock oilpan with the Improved baffle. I will check that other site, thanks.
11-21-2010, 03:42 PM
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The problem with aftermarket rockers is weight, particularly weight over the valve which is where most roller rockers add weight. You can get aftermarket rockers that are light, but they are pricey ($2k).
The stock rockers are very strong and very light. They have one weakness, and that is the trunion setup which can fail (spits out needel bearings). You can fix the weakness with a trunion upgrade.
If you go to aftermarket heads with bronze valve guides or a different valvetrain geometry you might need aftermarket rockers, but based on this discussion so far I do not think heads are in your upgrade path.
The stock rockers are very strong and very light. They have one weakness, and that is the trunion setup which can fail (spits out needel bearings). You can fix the weakness with a trunion upgrade.
If you go to aftermarket heads with bronze valve guides or a different valvetrain geometry you might need aftermarket rockers, but based on this discussion so far I do not think heads are in your upgrade path.
11-21-2010, 04:01 PM
#26
It may seem like that if you have never road raced. But, if you were out there on the track with him, you would understand that big power is not what he is after. Going from corner to corner, eliminating unnecessary shifts is more of a concern for him than going beyond his powerband. It is about keeping focus on your lines and driving and maintaining a smooth trajectory more than ultimate acceleration.
11-21-2010, 04:20 PM
#27
I think the number one company for you to call, is Katech. I'd say they probably have THE MOST LS based road racing experience of anyone out there, they have an excellent track record, and they're really great guys to deal with. I'm sure they'll steer you down the path of making it as reliable as possible up to the RPM you want to go better than anyone else can.
11-21-2010, 05:00 PM
#28
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I am looking into different gearing, it is on the table. I have looked at changing internal transmission ratios, final drive and so forth, but what it comes with all around seems to work really well! Specifically what I am trying to do is eliminate shifts, the LS1 makes power and torque over such a large RPM range that if I could just extend it a 1k rpm I could eliminate a couple of shifts per lap, couple that with the engine braking afforded at that RPM and it is a huge advantage. Gearing might help me in certain situations but a wider usable powerband helps me everywhere. I really think I am going to just bite the bullet and do the bottom end as well! one less thing to worry about! Thanks for the input. Any parts specifically you would recommend...callies, skat etc?
Many guys on the site have experience in the area tho and I'm sure you'll find no issue gathering opinions and experience on the matter.
11-21-2010, 05:47 PM
#29
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The stock rev limit is 6000 on ls1"s if you want a peak of 350 I would look into a ls6 cam. Your desired results would be very close and they can be used to 6500 rpm
11-21-2010, 06:49 PM
#30
It may seem like that if you have never road raced. But, if you were out there on the track with him, you would understand that big power is not what he is after. Going from corner to corner, eliminating unnecessary shifts is more of a concern for him than going beyond his powerband. It is about keeping focus on your lines and driving and maintaining a smooth trajectory more than ultimate acceleration.
11-21-2010, 08:24 PM
#33
You need to get a cam with a high LSA but still maintain the stock lift and durations as much as possible. This should raise your power band without creating gobs of HP.
11-21-2010, 08:31 PM
#34
Im shifting at 7600 with a stock bottom, and limiter set at 7800. These bottom ends are very strong, 2 years of shifting at 73-7400 rpm, and I had a valve spring fail. Went to a much more stable valvetrain, light valves and good pac dual springs.... still using ls7 lifters, you dont need morels....
op, needs alot if he wants to rev high.... stock cam/heads = no point.
11-21-2010, 08:34 PM
#35
Im shifting at 7600 with a stock bottom, and limiter set at 7800. These bottom ends are very strong, 2 years of shifting at 73-7400 rpm, and I had a valve spring fail. Went to a much more stable valvetrain, light valves and good pac dual springs.... still using ls7 lifters, you dont need morels....
op, needs alot if he wants to rev high.... stock cam/heads = no point.
op, needs alot if he wants to rev high.... stock cam/heads = no point.
11-21-2010, 09:35 PM
#40