I have a 2002 Z28, stock internals(I will replace what needs to be changed for the cam obviously), Built lvl 5 4l60e with Yank 4k Stall, will have long tubes(prolly pacesetter 1 3/4, possibly TSP 1 7/8 if I can find used for cheap) and TSP True Duals by the time I buy a cam, also has SLP Lid, Free Ram Air Mod, and being a 2002 the stock ls6 intake.

After the cam I will eventually be doing
UD Pulleys
Heads(prolly ls6 ported)
stuff like suspension

I will most likely never be boosting it!

Which cam should I run? I have been looking at the TQ3 and MS4. Both which would be great I think. However I am just looking for any other suggestions you all might have. As of now the stall flashes at about 3600, so after pulleys and the cam it should be flashing at about 3800-4000rpm. And I will never be revving the motor past like 6200 or whatever the stock red-line is so I need the cam to put as much power as possible from around 3500 up to around 6300. If I could make that range the peak of my powerband that would be wonderful

Also I dont know much about heads and dont know how they will change the mix when/if I ever do them so please elaborate on that if you would.

 

Both the torquer v3 and the MS4 are big cams, and wont start making power until late in the RPM range. I am not really sure they will work well with the stock heads/ valve springs. For good low end power look at a cam in the 230's duration and low .600 lift.

 

If you don't plan on spinning the car anymore than 6200 then MS4 wouldn't be a good choice. I have it and it is a big cam, and it pulls like a raped ape in the higher rpm's. From what I have heard from others, they pull up to around 7200-7400. Im stock head and bottom end, so I don't spin mine that high, but I still every now and then get her up to 6800. I usually keep it around 6500 tho when I run.

 

I plan on going with the torquer V.3 with my 4000 stall. From what I have been told it is suppose to be a good match. The power comes in earlier than the torquer V.2 and Mid range is better from what I have read and of course the peak will be better. I have also read that the LSK lobe with the high lift is what helps broaden the powerband but I may be wrong.

Read this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...orquer-v3.html

I think it's a great medium size cam. Reason I want to go with it is because I don't want to shift way to high and I wan't mid range power while making good peak. I have looked at A LOT of cam's and I think the V.3 is what will work for me. You can also talk to Brian from TSP he has it in his Z28.

 

RapTR from Thunder or a Cam Motion grind would be a great match up.

 

I wouldn't do the ms4 since my ms3builds peak power at 6400 I would imagine the ms4 is even higher.

 

MS4 is like a newer version of the 3. Its not a huge step bigger. I believe specs are very similar between the 2 cams.

 

well considering I already have a stall that flashes me well into the high-middle of my powerband I really dont need low down torque...because Ill never use it.

also thanks for the responses guys I was leaning more towards the V.3 in the first place and this is just confirming it more.

any other suggestions?

 

Just so ya know that V3 will prolly peak 6300ish and carry to 66-6700ish. A mid-upper 220ish cam is what you are describing you want....

 

put springs and rod bolts in it regardless (so you can spin it up abit more). Then you can talk to many of people on here. Do some research as there is TONS of combo's in this forum, and in the dyno results forum. with a 4000 stall, you can run anything from a low 230's duration cam with a tight LSA, to the vindicator if you wanted. Keep in mind, with the wider LSA's and bigger duration, your going to move your peak power further towards the upper RPM range.

 

ok well I really dont know all that much about cams in general but if I did springs and rods so i could spin a little faster would the v3 be the ideal choice?

 

Like SOMbitch said what you are describing would be a high 220's duration low 230's duration cam on a 111 or 112 lsa. I'd look at the TSP 228/228 or the TQ V.2, or a custom grind. I'd think a 230/232 .595/.598 on a 111+3 or 112+2 would be ideal for what you want. The cam that comes the closest to this would be the Tq. V.2 at 232/234 .595/.598 112lsa. TSP says it has a 1800-6400 rpm power band which sounds about right.

Also the TSP 228R specs at 228/228 .588/.588 may work even better for your application. It has a 1600-6300 rpm range TSP says.

 

if i were to do it all over again, I would have gone bigger on the cam. I know people will say bigger isnt better. That is true. But i would atleast go with a nice size cam. Something like the TSP Torquer 2 232/234 or the TSP 233/239. The 233/239 would probably be the biggest cam I would go. But at the same time there are people here who daily drive MS4 cams and bigger no problems.

Just ask yourself, what is your realistic no BS goal for the car. Do you want something fun to drive and toy around or is it a strictly drag car?

 

The way I see it is, is a bigger cam really worth the extra 10hp it's going to gain you on stock heads, and the headache it's going to be to tune and drive at 45mph, in 6th with the A/C on?

 

check the dyno section to look at different cams results.pick the cam after you get the heads you want.TSP prc heads are on sale,$100 off OEM castings.they have a cam pkg sale also,max out the credit card.

 

There are guys that daily drive big cams no problems. But then again, it is up to how much you can tolerate and how spot on your tune is. i have a 230/227 cam on a 112 and have never rode in a cammed car. My car drives so much like stock with a 3200 stall. It is very civil. That is why i suggested going with a nice medium somewhat good size cam.

Again, i am not saying go throw a vindicator or Trex. But just from my experience with my cam, i would certainly go with a bit bigger.

 

With respect, given your parameters I wouldn't recommend either of those cams. I do not think they are optimal for you displacement or your desired rev range.

The one little caveat I would mention however is that bc you have an 02 you have the upgraded rod bolts and with a properly setup valvetrain you could spin a little higher... I shift mine at 6600RPM (it does have have the Z06 valves but that isn't of paramount importance). In addition eventually you might want to look into heads, even if they are something like take off 243's or a good aftermarket head. Then maybe a FAST. If you are dead set on your original RPM range, I think you will find intake duration 215-222 with good lift will produce a little better power where you want it than cams with 230+... (this makes some assumptions about where you end up placing the valve events, which I will touch on a little later).

If you go back there have been several great threads in this section over the years dealing with cam design. The best of these give recommendations that are vastly different than what you might expect by posting a poll. Off-hand, one I would recommend would be Patrick G's torque cam thread:
Torque Coming Out of My Ears!

Because the engine is stock-ish there are a few other limitations to think of, specifically the intake manifold which wants to plant max torque around 4800 and max power around 6200. For a car that sees appreciable time on the street you should think about optimizing your cam around these parameters... which means you do not want overly large durations trying to push max power way up towards 7000RPM, where you said you didn't want to go anyway. Maximizing the average power in the rev range you want to stay in should be the goal, not making highest power at your shift point low end be damned. This is how a 420RWHP car beats a 450RWHP car...

In addition, a fun cam on the street is going to have good dynamic compression. This a function of your cylinder dimensions and the intake valve closing point. Excessive intake duration or LSA or retarded intake centerline is going to push that back reducing DCR and making the cam a poor choice when getting the groceries... relatively weak low-midrange torque and throttle response. It will also help power all across the board, and if the rest of the valve events are chosen wisely you will have good power throughout the range where your car will live on a day to day basis.

Keeping the IVC in the right spot for decent DCR also means that there is a practical limit to intake duration if you want to keep a reasonable amount of overlap...

All that being said there are various cams that may be a better choice than a Torquer V3 or MS4 for your application. In the thread above Patrick G ran a 224/228 .637/.639 110LSA (+0) which had LSK lobes for intake and exhaust. Granted his motor is built and has very good heads and a ported FAST (and all together is a well thought out combo). Although you wouldn't make quite as much power as he did, that cam will work reasonably well with stock heads if setup properly.

More recently the EPS lobes have been getting a lot of attention. The "baby EPS cam" that TXCAMSS put in an otherwise stock LS6 made 430RWHP, but more importantly it had a nice torque curve in the useable range. The specs were something like 222/226 .597/.598 115LSA. Their off the shelf grind is on a 113LSA FWIW.
Baby EPS Cam

There was also this thread which had some decent ideas for a cam that would make good power in a usable range
Good Low and Mid Torque Cam
224/228 .581/.588 110 + 0 LSA was one interesting idea

In the end though the best advice I will give you is to contact someone who can custom spec a cam that is tailored to your setup and meets your goals. A custom grind only costs a little bit more compared to the overall cost of the cam so you should get one that is optimized for you. Patrick G offers that service, and various sponsors will take the time to help you out if you call them.

 

What you aren't taking into consideration is his tranny. He bumps his shifts to 6600 on a stock tranny and he WILL be rebuilding it. Its not a matter of IF but rather WHEN. Something to consider when dishing advice to the auto guys. We dont have as much flexibility on upping rpms.

My suggestion is from Cam Motion:

C33-666 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 224'/228', .595"/.595", 112'+4'; 1,900 to 5,900 RPM

 

Nice, somebody that actually thinks about the tranny. Good call 01ssred. I think the smarter route would be to build up your tranny if your an auto, or your rear end if your a M6. IMO, that is the route i would go. i remember when i threw my cam and converter in, i was so scared bout the tranny going out. ive heard people whos tranny gave out on the dyno or on the drive back from the shop. So i would build the tranny to withstand the power you throw at it.

 

You two missed this in the first post:
He has a built transmission.