LS3 connecting rods in LS1 build - worthwhile mod?
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LS3 connecting rods in LS1 build - worthwhile mod? Hey guys,
I've tried searching and I haven't found a definitive answer - what are everyone's opinions on putting an LS3 rod in an LS1 build?
I heard they're lighter and stronger than the stock LS1 connecting rods, and considering I'm getting forged pistons and the rotating assembly balanced, why not?
FWIW, this is going on a moderate NA application (nothing wild) that will be on the road course for about 20% of the time. I'll be pairing up the connecting rods with Katech rod bolts regardless.
Thoughts?
I've tried searching and I haven't found a definitive answer - what are everyone's opinions on putting an LS3 rod in an LS1 build?
I heard they're lighter and stronger than the stock LS1 connecting rods, and considering I'm getting forged pistons and the rotating assembly balanced, why not?
FWIW, this is going on a moderate NA application (nothing wild) that will be on the road course for about 20% of the time. I'll be pairing up the connecting rods with Katech rod bolts regardless.
Thoughts?
Hey guys,
I've tried searching and I haven't found a definitive answer - what are everyone's opinions on putting an LS3 rod in an LS1 build?
I heard they're lighter and stronger than the stock LS1 connecting rods, and considering I'm getting forged pistons and the rotating assembly balanced, why not?
FWIW, this is going on a moderate NA application (nothing wild) that will be on the road course for about 20% of the time. I'll be pairing up the connecting rods with Katech rod bolts regardless.
Thoughts?
I've tried searching and I haven't found a definitive answer - what are everyone's opinions on putting an LS3 rod in an LS1 build?
I heard they're lighter and stronger than the stock LS1 connecting rods, and considering I'm getting forged pistons and the rotating assembly balanced, why not?
FWIW, this is going on a moderate NA application (nothing wild) that will be on the road course for about 20% of the time. I'll be pairing up the connecting rods with Katech rod bolts regardless.
Thoughts?
Since you're having the engine built, I wouldn't do the Katech rod bolts. You could use ARP 8740 or 2000 rod bolts and if the rods need to be resized, you could still have that done and pay about the same or less than what those Katech's cost.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: Riverside, CA (So Cal)
I'd say they're definitely an upgrade. They are bushed for a floating pin so make sure the pistons have provisions for some way of securing those pins (ie spirolocks, c-clips, etc).
Since you're having the engine built, I wouldn't do the Katech rod bolts. You could use ARP 8740 or 2000 rod bolts and if the rods need to be resized, you could still have that done and pay about the same or less than what those Katech's cost.
Since you're having the engine built, I wouldn't do the Katech rod bolts. You could use ARP 8740 or 2000 rod bolts and if the rods need to be resized, you could still have that done and pay about the same or less than what those Katech's cost.
The Katechs came with the engine I got, otherwise I would have gotten ARP's
I don't think they're worth it unless you're already rebuilding the engine. In other words, I wouldn't rebuild the engine just to swap out those rods, but if I were building from scratch, I'd get them over the LS1 style.
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Yes, I think so. Most forged pistons can be used with the floating pin design of the rods anyways, so that alone will save you the $50 or so to have a shop press in the pins for the LS1 rods, so they basically pay for themselves.
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My hp goals for my ls1 is around 600-650. Can the stock rods hold up to that?
I wouldn't feel to great about that with LS1 rods, but with the better floating pin LS rods, like in the later model engines, yeah 600-650whp is doable. That's assuming you have a good tuner.
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what bearings etc. would I need to do the ls3 rods in ls1?
