Another ARP Rod Bolt Nightmare
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Another ARP Rod Bolt Nightmare This past summer I did a major overhaul of the car and rebuilt the transmission and 3200 stall. also did cam and heads, lifters, oil pump, and much more and replaced almost all the gaskets of the motor. i was reading about the failure rates of the stock rod bolts with high miles. so i decided to do arp rod bolts. i did the torquing sequence (2 passes at 30ft/lbs and a final at 50) and used the supplied lubricant. i did strip the last bolt and had trouble getting it out, but eventually was able to get it out. i also took out the ferrules.
fast forward about 3000 miles later, and about a month and a half later, im goin WOT to tune the car and i hear a clunking; i knew right away that i had spun a rod bearing. i didnt have time to rebuild it myself cuz of work and school so i let my mechanic tear it apart. i had 2 spun rod bearings and one of the rod bolts completely backed out and was sitting in the oil pan.
now before anyone says anything, i didnt use the stretch gauge to check since i didnt have the tool, and i was running out of time before school started up again. and ppl on here have done the torque sequence before and i guess i was the unfortunate one.
i may have installed them incorrectly so im not bashing ARP bolts, but i want everyone to know what happened with me so they wont make the same mistakes. if i did do everything over again, i would have spent the extra 100 bucks and got the katech. and if i got the arp bolts, i would for sure have got a machinist to do and check with a stretch gauge.
it was very disappointing, but i like to look at the brightside of things. even though the old motor failed, the car is back up and running with an LQ9.
fast forward about 3000 miles later, and about a month and a half later, im goin WOT to tune the car and i hear a clunking; i knew right away that i had spun a rod bearing. i didnt have time to rebuild it myself cuz of work and school so i let my mechanic tear it apart. i had 2 spun rod bearings and one of the rod bolts completely backed out and was sitting in the oil pan.
now before anyone says anything, i didnt use the stretch gauge to check since i didnt have the tool, and i was running out of time before school started up again. and ppl on here have done the torque sequence before and i guess i was the unfortunate one.
i may have installed them incorrectly so im not bashing ARP bolts, but i want everyone to know what happened with me so they wont make the same mistakes. if i did do everything over again, i would have spent the extra 100 bucks and got the katech. and if i got the arp bolts, i would for sure have got a machinist to do and check with a stretch gauge.
it was very disappointing, but i like to look at the brightside of things. even though the old motor failed, the car is back up and running with an LQ9.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
OP, dont feel bad, I had a motor last 1350 miles with the ARP rod bolts. Found 1 bolt torn completely in half and the one across from it hanging on for dear life. The aftermath:
The engine is installed in the car WITH the oil pan:
Cracked sleeve:
The engine is installed in the car WITH the oil pan:
Cracked sleeve:
Thread Starter
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From: Baltimore, MD
yea but i really didnt go hard on it at all for the first 2000 miles. i just babied the **** out of it and daily drove it. i didnt start going WOT until the last 700 miles of its life. but u maybe right.
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Sorry to hear the bad luck! If the bolt actually backed out, it's most likely improper installation. **** happens. At least there's a bigger engine in there now, lol.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Baltimore, MD
btw, did u file a complaint with ARP or anything like that?
Why do the rods need to be re-sized just to change rod bolts? If the rod bolts are changed one side @ a time without loosening the adjacent rod bolt per rod, the bearing seat should not be affected. Am thinking that you guys are discussing the need to re-size only once the rod cap has already been removed or both rod bolts loosened. Just wanted to clarify.
Why do the rods need to be re-sized just to change rod bolts? If the rod bolts are changed one side @ a time without loosening the adjacent rod bolt per rod, the bearing seat should not be affected. Am thinking that you guys are discussing the need to re-size only once the rod cap has already been removed or both rod bolts loosened. Just wanted to clarify.
I really don't think it matters whether you take out one rod bolt at a time or two, the increase in clamping force from the upgraded bolts are going to distort the bore to some degree.
x2
Katech has been building engines forever, and I'm sure they've done their fair share of research. I went with Katech's for my build, and they say I can do it inside the car, then I will.
Katech has been building engines forever, and I'm sure they've done their fair share of research. I went with Katech's for my build, and they say I can do it inside the car, then I will.
I'm sorry that you had the bad experience. But as you mentioned "most" get away with it. You're obviously not in the "most people" category! I'm sure you'll build an even better engine - goodluck!
PS LS1450, it is incredible that theses engines are monsters hidden in small blocks but its also even more incredible that racing teams are creating 1200+hp out of little 2.0l engines N/A.
