Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Guys I got a question. If my timing marks are set up dot to dot, doesn't that mean that cylinder 1's lifters are on the base circle of the cam?

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

I also opted for a set of stock ls1 rockers with the trunion upgrade already done to them from Texas Speed. No more Needle bearing worrying.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

What exactly does the "trunion upgrade" do/help?

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Stock rockers have their needle bearings exposed, which mean in an event of a rocker failure, the bearings can be spit out of them and through your motor. These have them sealed up with no chance of them going in your motor. And they can take more abuse.

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

...little off topic, but can I ask where you got those valve covers?

nice project, btw

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

I would tell you where I got those bad *** valve covers if they freaking fit. Their a piece of ****. I'm sure you can take a guess where I got them from.

SSmoked1

iTrader: (21)

Your build is coming along nice. I'll be ordering from my H/C from TSP as soon as I get my tax money back. Still torn between 5.3/LS6's and tsunami/ms3. Have you ran into any issues or has it been pretty straight forward? Keep the pic's coming too!!

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Have ran into zero issues so far. Honestly, anyone who tells you this is hard work is lying. Its not complicated work at all, its just time consuming. A lot of things need done, that is all. I'm going on 2 months with my car looking like this. But I'm taking my time and not rushing anything. MY car is down for winter so why the hell would I rush.

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

While both dot-to-dot (crank-12, cam-6) and crank-12, cam-12 both set the cyl #1 piston at TDC, only the TDC method of crank-12 o'clock and cam-12 o'clock sets each of cyl #1's intake/exhaust lifters on the cam's base circle.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Guys I need some help. I determined to be at 7.25 at zero lash for my pushrods without any lifter preload. Now all I do is add what lifter preload I want to my 7.25? Is this correct?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

LS6 valley cover is a bad thing if you're going to attach the normal vacuum line to the intake. You must tame down the suction alot, its way too much and sucks too much oil mist from the crankcase. I removed my PCV system 100%, capped everything off, EXCEPT one breather on each valve cover, for about 6 months. There was zero change in my oil or anything else. Everything was the same. There wasn't a drop of moisture in the oil either. My oil changes were identical.

Even down here in humid south Florida, no buildup of moisture.

All you need to do is what I did. Use an adjustable needle valve. It only has to suck a tiny little bit. Keep the PCV valve in line too. Just put a breather on the drivers side valve cover and suck crankcase gases from the passengers side valve cover....into the vacuum port on the intake. It will allow fresh air to travel across the entire crankcase. Cap off the upper TB port and the valley cover port (if you have one).

.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Yes you add but...that would leave with a 7.325 PR with .075 preload and that just seems short. Is the lifter pumped up or shimmed solid when you measure. I ran a 7.425 with those heads unmilled....

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

The lifters were not shimmed solid. After a few other tries it seems that I need a 7.350 pushrod instead of a 7.325. I tightened the rock down to 22ftlbs with the push rod installed but not touching the rocker. I fit my fingers in there and managed to adjust the pushrod until it would not spin anymore. I then took the pushrod out and it is a tad bit more then 9 turns until it is closed.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Using this formula 6.800 +9.0 X 0.050 = It comes to 7.25 at zero lash. To me it sounds like its to small to. And that is without any preload.

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Looks like proper proceedure. While having/making a solid lifter would be more ideal for this measurement, you really don't need one since your method doesn't apply any downward force on the lifter (via the rocker). If done correctly, the lifter's plunger should remain in the same position throughout this entire process.

I also initially ran a 7.325 pushrod (only wanted .050" preload), then soon swapped to 7.350 because 7.325 wasn't offered in the thicker diameter I wanted.

7.350 may seem shorter than what is commonly discussed on tech', but that doesn't mean **** with regard to your build. As long as you're finding the exact point of zero lash while the lifters are on the cam's base circle, you've measured correctly. Add appropriate length for preload and you're good to go.

jsut

nice, they scream sex lol

silverZ98

iTrader: (6)

i ended up with 7.325 on my build

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

With how much preload?

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

We had a completely stock long-block 2001 LS1 (stock rockers, stock short-block, heads had never been off, etc) in here for a cam install a month or so ago...it was simple XER lobes on both sides. It ended up needing 7.350" to get right about .070" preload! Everybody on this forum and their dogs told the guy to order 7.400" pushrods, minus a few of us who said to measure. He ended up having to send the pushrods he had ordered back for a refund (bought them from another vendor here that also swore 7.400" was the right length) and luckily we had the 7.350" in stock!

I'm glad you've measured. I think your measuring procedure is sound, and I would go 7.325" myself. But you'd likely be just fine at 7.350" (.100" preload) as well!

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

I'm also gonna re check piston to valve clearence. The heads are now bolted on the engine so I'm gonna have to use a degree wheel. Can anyone tell me if this is the correct kit? Or do all kits work? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-90000/


Also, would this tool work just fine in removing valve springs?