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Lifter Damage

Old 02-02-2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by O2Form
Drop these in and forget about them http://www.atlanticspeed.com/product...ry=244#details Gm really dropped the ball on this, they should have used their older design.
Thanks for explaning the whole lifter tray deal.
That was a convercation I started then forgot to come back in and explain it, I think I kind of took it as the guy was being smart, but he gernerally did not understand the purpose of the lifter tray. My bad

The lifter trays only real job is to hold the lifter up when the cam is not in place, they do not align the lifter in the bores.
On a stock motor this is fine because there is really no force to make the lifter want to twist in the bore, the roller just rides on the cam.
Now once you put in a big over kill cam in like a MS4 you are going to rev the motor higher to get into the power band of the larger cam.
Most likely what happend was once the motor reved up real high the valve train was not up to par and the lifter actaully came off the lobe and then twisted and came slamming back down on the cam and this caused it to turn on the lobe.
For some reason people have come to the conclusion that some how the plastic tray aligns the lifter so that must mean some how they think the lifter is coming in and out of the plastic tray which it dosen't. Just think how fast it would wear out that plastic tray with a harden steel lifter going in and out of it. The tray would be done for the first time the motor started up.

To the OP:
Yep that is what I figured the cam was going to look like, I have a feeling you did to.
If you are going to continue to run a nasty cam like the MS4 I would look in to a link bar style lifter, or run a calmer cam and just throw some nitrous on the car for when the time comes for your vette to get nasty.

I would bet you would like a cam that has more of a mid range to high power curve then something that is high rpm only. I know when I ran a cam similer to the 228R on the street it pulled nice and love the 125 shot coming in.
Old 02-02-2011, 03:48 PM
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Y'all aren't serious are you...really ...The trays don't hold the lifters inline with the cam??!?! LOL!! Jesus!!! the shitty tech in this failed thread ...before any jokers that think they know what they are talking about Regarding this insult me ...I've owned 3 of these motors and have done plenty of work on them including builds...

OK kids its this simple,. there is no magical friction within the lifter bores holding them straight on the cam...This would kill the bores of the block..friction of the lifter against the cam Does not keep the lifter straight and true on the lobe, The oil is pressurized around the lifter just as oil is pressurized around the cam at its bearings or the crank at its bearings....At the base circle of the cam's lobe and at the maximum lift of the cam's lobe the lifter IS indeed guided straight up and down in its tray from turning ,The flat spots matching the flat spots of the lifter Indeed are there to keep the lifter from spinning in its bore thus keeping it rolling in direction on the lobe the tray also collects some oil for lubricating the lifters movement in its self...
ANYONE who has had so much as a head off can verify this by watching the lifters movement by looking down and thru the tray...another function of these trays are to aid in cam removal and replacement, Not that I trust them to hold them up as i also used magnet pens as a back up for loosing any to the pan...
think about it
say your taking the cam out Theoretically with rockers and PR's removed you spin the cam a couple of times by hand and the lifters are to stick in the maximum lift position of the said cam so you can slide the cam out.. this is nearly the same position/height with as if its running with valve train connected ...
The lifters By no stretch of the imagination move completely out of the Tray while running...And the lifters Do NOT! just magically stay true to the cam lobe without constant the guidance of the tray.
And there has been talk of the #10 trays being bad and loosing lifter guidance ...I experienced of of these failures on a 98 Ls1 T/A and sure enough the lifter that turned i could spin in the tray because it had rounded and it was stamped #10!
Any cam that has a lifter turn sideways is now a paper weight,conversation starter,or a candidate for a regrind ... Period

Last edited by defaultexistence; 02-02-2011 at 04:09 PM.
Old 02-02-2011, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Z/YA

I would bet you would like a cam that has more of a mid range to high power curve then something that is high rpm only. I know when I ran a cam similer to the 228R on the street it pulled nice and love the 125 shot coming in.
Lol a local guy just offered me his tsp 233/239 cam for a deal too damn good to pass up. Going that way. Drained the oil today and didnt see anything unusual but I have been busy cleaning the heads up so I havent cut open the filter yet. If I see anything I will post pics up.

Like you said I believe a little juice will be a nice compliment to the new cam. Gonna order some springs tomorrow and go pick up a pushrod length checker. Hopefully have the car running sometime this year..lol
Old 02-02-2011, 08:43 PM
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Can we know how you detected this problem or is it top secret? What were you doing that caused the problem? Were the springs the problem? If they weren't I feel you are putting a cam and springs in and not addressing the problem but maybe I missed something.
Old 02-05-2011, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by araber89
Can we know how you detected this problem or is it top secret? What were you doing that caused the problem? Were the springs the problem? If they weren't I feel you are putting a cam and springs in and not addressing the problem but maybe I missed something.
He bought the car with one head pulled off. The previous owner heard a noise (I think at startup) and immediately shut the car off. When we pulled the other head, we found 1 mismatched lifter. Some shop in GA that did the cam swap must have put the mismatched lifter in by mistake. We are pretty sure this is what caused the damage.
Old 02-05-2011, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by defaultexistence
y'all aren't serious are you...really ...the trays don't hold the lifters inline with the cam??!?! Lol!! Jesus!!! The shitty tech in this failed thread ...before any jokers that think they know what they are talking about regarding this insult me ...i've owned 3 of these motors and have done plenty of work on them including builds...

Ok kids its this simple,. There is no magical friction within the lifter bores holding them straight on the cam...this would kill the bores of the block..friction of the lifter against the cam does not keep the lifter straight and true on the lobe, the oil is pressurized around the lifter just as oil is pressurized around the cam at its bearings or the crank at its bearings....at the base circle of the cam's lobe and at the maximum lift of the cam's lobe the lifter is indeed guided straight up and down in its tray from turning ,the flat spots matching the flat spots of the lifter indeed are there to keep the lifter from spinning in its bore thus keeping it rolling in direction on the lobe the tray also collects some oil for lubricating the lifters movement in its self...
Anyone who has had so much as a head off can verify this by watching the lifters movement by looking down and thru the tray...another function of these trays are to aid in cam removal and replacement, not that i trust them to hold them up as i also used magnet pens as a back up for loosing any to the pan...
Think about it
say your taking the cam out theoretically with rockers and pr's removed you spin the cam a couple of times by hand and the lifters are to stick in the maximum lift position of the said cam so you can slide the cam out.. This is nearly the same position/height with as if its running with valve train connected ...
The lifters by no stretch of the imagination move completely out of the tray while running...and the lifters do not! Just magically stay true to the cam lobe without constant the guidance of the tray.
And there has been talk of the #10 trays being bad and loosing lifter guidance ...i experienced of of these failures on a 98 ls1 t/a and sure enough the lifter that turned i could spin in the tray because it had rounded and it was stamped #10!
Any cam that has a lifter turn sideways is now a paper weight,conversation starter,or a candidate for a regrind ... Period
wow ...................
Old 04-03-2011, 05:34 AM
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Any progress on this???
Old 04-03-2011, 01:08 PM
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the pics of the cam look like my cam, only mine is much worse. As far as I can tell none of my lifters turned. 10 of 16 lobes have damage to some extent that catches a finger nail. Same car too. 2002 Z06 but with a LG G5x2 cam. Loss of oil pressure at idle was my only indicator.
Old 06-03-2011, 06:44 PM
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this is probly a stupid question but my lifters pretty sure are messed up and imma have to replace lifters and cam on my z28 ls1. i know alldata says to remove engine has anyone did it without removing it?
Old 07-06-2011, 07:37 PM
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^^^^^^^Pull head replace lifters reinstall head. Engine stays. Do lifter trays too.... Like $8 a piece you will need two.. Definately get a good set of springs on there. Head bolts also if they are stock TTY. GM MLS gaskets are good and about $30 a piece......

Why do think your lifters are messed up though??? Start a new thread with your symptoms......


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