Wont start video added please help (MORE VIDEOS ADDED)
03-15-2011, 08:51 PM
#22
listen bone head, I have had vats do exactly this to my car. it would run for 2 seconds then die. The Chip in the Key was dirty cleaned it with cleaner prob went away. Dont be SO FAST to dismiss every option. Yes I know its supposed to disable fuel and starter relay but SOMETIMES the car still cranks for some reason.
as here as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...lp-please.html
mikemunoz: Do you happen to have HP tuners, have you hooked up a noid light to the injectors? Can you hear the fuel pump prime at first key on? Have you checked all the fuses to make sure.
as here as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...lp-please.html
mikemunoz: Do you happen to have HP tuners, have you hooked up a noid light to the injectors? Can you hear the fuel pump prime at first key on? Have you checked all the fuses to make sure.
Last edited by bigboykilroy; 03-15-2011 at 09:05 PM.
03-15-2011, 11:05 PM
#24
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listen bone head, I have had vats do exactly this to my car. it would run for 2 seconds then die. The Chip in the Key was dirty cleaned it with cleaner prob went away. Dont be SO FAST to dismiss every option. Yes I know its supposed to disable fuel and starter relay but SOMETIMES the car still cranks for some reason.
as here as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...lp-please.html
mikemunoz: Do you happen to have HP tuners, have you hooked up a noid light to the injectors? Can you hear the fuel pump prime at first key on? Have you checked all the fuses to make sure.
as here as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...lp-please.html
mikemunoz: Do you happen to have HP tuners, have you hooked up a noid light to the injectors? Can you hear the fuel pump prime at first key on? Have you checked all the fuses to make sure.
i have checked all the fuses all are good , how do u check the injectors? the fuel rail do have gas the fuel pump does turn on, the plugs are wet with gas, my friend has the HP tuner but has not had a chance to go by. i used a auto scanner and no codes came out. can a ground cause it not to start, 3 ground on the ds head and 1 on each side of the block
03-15-2011, 11:24 PM
#26
listen bone head, I have had vats do exactly this to my car. it would run for 2 seconds then die. The Chip in the Key was dirty cleaned it with cleaner prob went away. Dont be SO FAST to dismiss every option. Yes I know its supposed to disable fuel and starter relay but SOMETIMES the car still cranks for some reason.
as here as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...lp-please.html
mikemunoz: Do you happen to have HP tuners, have you hooked up a noid light to the injectors? Can you hear the fuel pump prime at first key on? Have you checked all the fuses to make sure.
as here as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...lp-please.html
mikemunoz: Do you happen to have HP tuners, have you hooked up a noid light to the injectors? Can you hear the fuel pump prime at first key on? Have you checked all the fuses to make sure.
03-16-2011, 07:46 AM
#28
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What kind of timing chain do you have? Does it have the different keyways to advance or retard the timing? Sounds like the cam timing is off, you better take it back down.
If its was running before and you mesed with the cam and now its not running then it needs to be checked.
If its off the pistons can be hitting the valves.
If its was running before and you mesed with the cam and now its not running then it needs to be checked.
If its off the pistons can be hitting the valves.
03-16-2011, 09:12 AM
#29
If you can get access to a full featured scan tool, a no start will 99% of the time will set a code either in the ECM if it is engine related or the BCM if it is security system related. Also, check your fuel pressure. If it comes up when you turn the key on but drop when it tries to start, I would venture to say a VATS issue. Depending on the year of the car it will disable the fuel system, the cranking system, or both.
03-16-2011, 11:17 AM
#30
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What kind of timing chain do you have? Does it have the different keyways to advance or retard the timing? Sounds like the cam timing is off, you better take it back down.
If its was running before and you mesed with the cam and now its not running then it needs to be checked.
If its off the pistons can be hitting the valves.
If its was running before and you mesed with the cam and now its not running then it needs to be checked.
If its off the pistons can be hitting the valves.
03-16-2011, 09:04 PM
#31
02Form what is so far up your *** that you have to shoot down everyones suggestions? Are you that bitter in life? My god. You just like to give people crap. People like you make this forum suck major dick. I forgot that everything on these cars always works 100%. It happens dont be so fast to dismiss it.
When you are in the car is the security light on or flashing while you are trying to crank?
Can you take a new spark plug and plug it in to one of the coils, ground it to the frame, have someone crank it and see if it sparks. Just to make sure.
If you get no spark check the plug on the coil harness for 12v make sure you are getting power to the coils.
When you are in the car is the security light on or flashing while you are trying to crank?
Can you take a new spark plug and plug it in to one of the coils, ground it to the frame, have someone crank it and see if it sparks. Just to make sure.
If you get no spark check the plug on the coil harness for 12v make sure you are getting power to the coils.
Last edited by bigboykilroy; 03-16-2011 at 09:23 PM.
03-17-2011, 12:21 AM
#32
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02Form what is so far up your *** that you have to shoot down everyones suggestions? Are you that bitter in life? My god. You just like to give people crap. People like you make this forum suck major dick. I forgot that everything on these cars always works 100%. It happens dont be so fast to dismiss it.
When you are in the car is the security light on or flashing while you are trying to crank?
Can you take a new spark plug and plug it in to one of the coils, ground it to the frame, have someone crank it and see if it sparks. Just to make sure.
If you get no spark check the plug on the coil harness for 12v make sure you are getting power to the coils.
When you are in the car is the security light on or flashing while you are trying to crank?
Can you take a new spark plug and plug it in to one of the coils, ground it to the frame, have someone crank it and see if it sparks. Just to make sure.
If you get no spark check the plug on the coil harness for 12v make sure you are getting power to the coils.
03-17-2011, 08:57 AM
#34
If the security light is ON on the dash then you have an issue with the Anti theft system.
Your best bet is to get with someone with HP tuners or EFI live to remove the VATS from your PCM and then see if that works.
I wouldnt try the resistor trick I would just disable the antitheft completely in the PCM to confirm the issue or completely eliminate the issue.
Do you have a 2nd or spare ignition key you can try?
Your best bet is to get with someone with HP tuners or EFI live to remove the VATS from your PCM and then see if that works.
I wouldnt try the resistor trick I would just disable the antitheft completely in the PCM to confirm the issue or completely eliminate the issue.
Do you have a 2nd or spare ignition key you can try?
Last edited by bigboykilroy; 03-17-2011 at 09:02 AM.
03-17-2011, 10:26 AM
#35
VATS is not really that hard to disable if you dont have access to efi/hptuner, etc. The system is quite simple. The little "chip" on your key is actually a resistor. When you put your key in the ignition that resistor is bridge across 2 contacts that put it in series with a input on your computer. Your PCM is preprogrammed at the factory for the specific value that is on your key. The PCM will not let your car start unless the correct value resistor is "seen" across the 2 contacts within your ignition lock cylinder with the key in. GM only made like 12 different values when this system came out. Im not sure if the Corvette had more values available or not. You take a ohmeter and measure your value. Goto the nearest electronics store (Radio Shack) will work and get a resistor that is as close to the measured value as possible. A 1% tolereance resistor should do the trick. A simple 1/8 watt resistor will work since there isnt any power flowing through this resistor...its simply a signal voltage.
Now you can take steering wheel apart and remove ignition lock cylinder OR find the wires off that contact bridge going down in your steering column and cut both. (make sure you arent on your airbag system wiring!). Strip the 2 ends of the wire off the wires (going down the column) and solder the resistor to the 2 wires putting the resistor in series with the wire. Start car up to test. If it doesnt work then your resistor is not close enough to the value and you may need to get another value to put in parallel with your current resistor to get it closer. I dont know what GM's tolerance is for the vats resistor.
The formula for parallel resistors is:
R1 X R2 Divided by R1 + R2
Or you can goto this website and just plug your values in http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm
There are some places that sell a module that have little switches that you can "tune" in the correct value....but the resistors are less than a $1 at radio shack, etc.
Now you can take steering wheel apart and remove ignition lock cylinder OR find the wires off that contact bridge going down in your steering column and cut both. (make sure you arent on your airbag system wiring!). Strip the 2 ends of the wire off the wires (going down the column) and solder the resistor to the 2 wires putting the resistor in series with the wire. Start car up to test. If it doesnt work then your resistor is not close enough to the value and you may need to get another value to put in parallel with your current resistor to get it closer. I dont know what GM's tolerance is for the vats resistor.
The formula for parallel resistors is:
R1 X R2 Divided by R1 + R2
Or you can goto this website and just plug your values in http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm
There are some places that sell a module that have little switches that you can "tune" in the correct value....but the resistors are less than a $1 at radio shack, etc.
03-17-2011, 03:21 PM
#36
VATS is not really that hard to disable if you dont have access to efi/hptuner, etc. The system is quite simple. The little "chip" on your key is actually a resistor. When you put your key in the ignition that resistor is bridge across 2 contacts that put it in series with a input on your computer. Your PCM is preprogrammed at the factory for the specific value that is on your key. The PCM will not let your car start unless the correct value resistor is "seen" across the 2 contacts within your ignition lock cylinder with the key in. GM only made like 12 different values when this system came out. Im not sure if the Corvette had more values available or not. You take a ohmeter and measure your value. Goto the nearest electronics store (Radio Shack) will work and get a resistor that is as close to the measured value as possible. A 1% tolereance resistor should do the trick. A simple 1/8 watt resistor will work since there isnt any power flowing through this resistor...its simply a signal voltage.
Now you can take steering wheel apart and remove ignition lock cylinder OR find the wires off that contact bridge going down in your steering column and cut both. (make sure you arent on your airbag system wiring!). Strip the 2 ends of the wire off the wires (going down the column) and solder the resistor to the 2 wires putting the resistor in series with the wire. Start car up to test. If it doesnt work then your resistor is not close enough to the value and you may need to get another value to put in parallel with your current resistor to get it closer. I dont know what GM's tolerance is for the vats resistor.
The formula for parallel resistors is:
R1 X R2 Divided by R1 + R2
Or you can goto this website and just plug your values in http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm
There are some places that sell a module that have little switches that you can "tune" in the correct value....but the resistors are less than a $1 at radio shack, etc.
Now you can take steering wheel apart and remove ignition lock cylinder OR find the wires off that contact bridge going down in your steering column and cut both. (make sure you arent on your airbag system wiring!). Strip the 2 ends of the wire off the wires (going down the column) and solder the resistor to the 2 wires putting the resistor in series with the wire. Start car up to test. If it doesnt work then your resistor is not close enough to the value and you may need to get another value to put in parallel with your current resistor to get it closer. I dont know what GM's tolerance is for the vats resistor.
The formula for parallel resistors is:
R1 X R2 Divided by R1 + R2
Or you can goto this website and just plug your values in http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm
There are some places that sell a module that have little switches that you can "tune" in the correct value....but the resistors are less than a $1 at radio shack, etc.
But my only concern is that something in the security system is malfunctioning, and just bypassing the pill may not find/fix the issue. My thinking is to disable it completely. Since it was running before with the security light on makes me wonder.
Do you have access to HP tuners, EFI Live?
Or if you have a 2nd key i doube 2 keys are bad, but if you only have 1 key you can try the bypass.
You didnt change out the steeting colum or the BCM did you? Just asking.
03-17-2011, 09:07 PM
#38
^^^^^^^you havn't offered any useful information here in this thread. all you have done is criticized everyone's suggestions. if you know that it isn't all of these things that might be wrong then what do you think it is?.....
03-17-2011, 10:37 PM
#39
This is great instructions for the bypass.
But my only concern is that something in the security system is malfunctioning, and just bypassing the pill may not find/fix the issue. My thinking is to disable it completely. Since it was running before with the security light on makes me wonder.
But my only concern is that something in the security system is malfunctioning, and just bypassing the pill may not find/fix the issue. My thinking is to disable it completely. Since it was running before with the security light on makes me wonder.
Get the resistor key out of the equation is a good start! If they want your car....they will get it!
Oh and its 15 different values that your key could be. Here they are!
(all values measured in ohms)
1--- 402
2--- 523
3--- 681
4--- 887
5--- 1130
6--- 1470
7--- 1870
8--- 2370
9--- 3010
10-- 3740
11-- 4750
12-- 6040
13-- 7500
14-- 9530
15-- 11800
There use to be alot of hardware stores that had the "pill" keys and all you have to do is know what value you need and they can copy you a key. They use to run around $25 or so.
And yes if i was a valet for you one night all i have to do is get a copy of your key. Measure the value on your "pill" and your car would be mine anytime i wanted it. VATS is useless by todays security standards.
Oh and im not gonna take your car.....wouldnt look good for me considering i am a federal technician.
03-18-2011, 12:04 AM
#40
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thats for all the help u guys. na i dont have a spare key and im still waiting for my tuner to come over and connect the laptop (HPtuner) to see what it can be , he says it needs a tune but i pretty sure it the VATS